Does anybody build these things?
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Mini steam and hit and miss
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I build mini live steam. Some from scratch, some from plans, some from castings.
Scratch for Pump.jpgWater Pump from Casting.jpgDouble from casting.jpgWalking Beam plans 2.jpgBoiler 1.jpgBoiler 4.jpgAttached FilesLast edited by DaWizard; 09-03-2017, 02:08 AM.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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Originally posted by DaWizard View PostI build mini live steam. Some from scratch, some from plans, some from castings.
Scratch for Pump.jpgWater Pump from Casting.jpgDouble from casting.jpgWalking Beam plans 2.jpgBoiler 1.jpgBoiler 4.jpg
I also guess you really use 600w for what is was designed for, steam cylinder oil.Last edited by Mike V. Florida; 09-03-2017, 02:55 AM.
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Hey Mike, since I don't know your skill level, nor your machine tolerances or attachments, I would recommend picking up a kit at first. If you really feel like you want to dive in feet first, there are several plans on the interweb or you can send me an email and I will send you all you can handle. The toughest thing I encountered was the lack of proper boiler project plans. It is possible that the boiler can come later and you can start out using compressed air. If you want to pick up a kit, check eBay, there are some good deals there, and you can do just a little research and find the companies that supply those kits and order direct. Start out small and see just how much you are lacking in tooling and jigs. I would recommend the LittleMachineShop.com, these guys have lots of goodies and just the stuff needed for machining.
Like I said, without knowing your skill level, it can be fun and frustrating as well. Just take your time and read the directions!
Let me know if I can be of more help.
[email protected]You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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Originally posted by DaWizard View PostHey Mike, since I don't know your skill level, nor your machine tolerances or attachments, I would recommend picking up a kit at first. If you really feel like you want to dive in feet first, there are several plans on the interweb or you can send me an email and I will send you all you can handle. The toughest thing I encountered was the lack of proper boiler project plans. It is possible that the boiler can come later and you can start out using compressed air. If you want to pick up a kit, check eBay, there are some good deals there, and you can do just a little research and find the companies that supply those kits and order direct. Start out small and see just how much you are lacking in tooling and jigs. I would recommend the LittleMachineShop.com, these guys have lots of goodies and just the stuff needed for machining.
Like I said, without knowing your skill level, it can be fun and frustrating as well. Just take your time and read the directions!
Let me know if I can be of more help.
[email protected]
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Here is where I have purchased parts and kits from, they have machined and just cast kits.
Start with an already machined kit and do the assembly and deburing to get the feel for it, then get the same kit in only castings so you will have the working knowledge and understand how, and make the unmachined kit work. Then, once you find you truly have the bug, go here and get all sizes of stock. I love it because they sell brass already cut to 1ft lengths of every size you can imagine.
Just had a thought, you also need a band saw, the HF one has been pretty good to me since I changed the blade to a bi-metal blade.
You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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As promised, here are a few pictures of the heavy machinery I use in the pursuit of my hobbies.
Bandsaw 1.jpgDrill Press.jpgUnimat Hor.jpgLathe 1.jpgUnimat Vert.jpgMill 1.jpgMill 2.jpg
In this last picture is the piece that I think has improved this little machine the most. It was made by a fellow in Korea and as you can see, it attaches to the normal Unimat vertical post and allows you to raise and lower the headstock in a fluid motion that does not require the loosening of the headstock clamp screw. Before I got this, you had to set the headstock height and hope you had it close enough to do the full depth you needed, because to move the headstock position, you had to loosen the screw and hope it didn't fall, or twist the headstock to break loose the friction of it hanging on the post. This was a wonderful idea the guy came up with and works very very well. I can move the headstock to a suitable height to start the drill depth, which is limited to about .650 and actually drill a hole the length of the drill bit, whatever the length.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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