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Rear Hub bearing, seal and axle key information

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  • Rear Hub bearing, seal and axle key information

    Original Thread:
    https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...ll-orientation



    can someone refresh me the correct factory installed position of the axle key in the key way, orientation of the beveled tip ?

  • #2
    The bevel goes down and inboard.
    There is a corresponding bevel to the axle groove that has been machined.

    I like to only put the key on part way, install the hub, and then with a small screwdriver and hammer, I tap the key home until it is flush with the outboard edge of the hub.

    There have been cases where the key was put in too far, and the hub over-tightened trying to get the hub to seat, and then cracked because of this oversight.

    Remember, the key is only a locating device, and intended to keep the hub from spinning while tightening the nut. It is the taper that provides the surface area for grip.

    These 5/8 nuts would have been better off as 3/4 nuts. Be careful, the threads strip easily if you over torque

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you good info that most guys are not aware of.
      mike
      Michael
      1928 speedster
      1929 closed cab p/u
      1930 standard roadster
      1931 deluxe tudor sedan
      1967 ss/rs conv.camaro

      Comment


      • #4
        YES, beveled in & down. I leave the key out a little, over the threads. I also put a little "ding" on the sides of the keyway to keep the key in place, when I tap it down. After sliding the drum on, tap the key in flush.
        Dad Chieftaughtme
        Last edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 11-08-2017, 06:37 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Rear Hub Seal Info!

          I'm installing rear wheel hub seals right now and I have a question. I searched the Chassis and Powertrain tech areas, but no luck. Maybe I'm too stupid to do an efficient search??

          How deep do the seals sit?
          Seams simple enough... most cars have a ridge to seat the seal against, but not in this case. This makes for no hard stop for the seal and I'm concerned that I'll install the seal crocked or jam it up against the bearing.

          Maybe I could place three spacers between the seal and the bearing, then remove the spacers when the seal is seated. What are you guys doing to make sure its straight? If the seal is crooked it will wear prematurely.

          Comment


          • Bob C
            Bob C commented
            Editing a comment
            Seat it just far enough to get the seal retainer in the groove.

          • JDupuis
            JDupuis commented
            Editing a comment
            What Bob said. X2

          • Ayyy
            Ayyy commented
            Editing a comment
            Originally posted by Bob C View Post
            Seat it just far enough to get the seal retainer in the groove.
            That doesn't assure that the seal is straight, since I cant pull the seal back up without damaging it.

          • Ayyy
            Ayyy commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks Mitch, I was unaware of this tool. This is the solution of course. Since my seals are already in, I'll have to set them evenly another way this time...

        • #6
          • This is a good tool to have. It perfectly seats the seal just below the snap ring groove. If you go down to far the bearing can rub the seal
            It's better than using a socket or a block of wood etc. I always pack the spring groove on the seal with grease so it does not pop out on install
            If using an alternative method be careful not to dent the seal

            https://www.brattons.com/rear-hub-seal-driver.htm




          653EAE66-798F-40B2-8761-D9E9055A0B1D.jpeg
          3 ~ Tudor's
          Henry Ford said
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

          Comment


          • #7
            Hub seal removal

            https://www.vintagefordforum.com/forum/model-a/105693-rear-hub-seal-removal
            3 ~ Tudor's
            Henry Ford said
            "It's all nuts and bolts"


            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

            Comment


            • #8
              Defective rear hub bearings!

              I found those pictures of how the faulty rear bearings wear before they blow up. Notice how the end race wears down until the pins fall out. The end race is softer metal than the hub so you really wont see any damage to the hub until it grenades. The picture with the side by side bearing shows an unworn one on the right. The unworn bearing has those extra supports in between every two rollers, where as the defective ones do not have any.

              bearing2.jpg


              bearing3.jpg

              image_1861.jpg
              3 ~ Tudor's
              Henry Ford said
              "It's all nuts and bolts"


              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

              Comment


              • #9
                471FBE1C-54B2-4879-8A8D-B6F32BFF3CC4.jpeg
                3 ~ Tudor's
                Henry Ford said
                "It's all nuts and bolts"


                Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                Comment


                • #10
                  The hub seal opening / spring goes down or away from the snap ring




                  95D3ECF2-57B4-4770-BA16-A036D2939439.jpeg
                  3 ~ Tudor's
                  Henry Ford said
                  "It's all nuts and bolts"


                  Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    I decided to make a rear hub seal installation tool out of wood, instead of waiting and buying the tool from a parts supplier like Bratton's. It appears that Bratton's raised their tool price from $20 to $27 in the last few days - probably because of the interest on VFF. I used the seal to draw a line around the outer part of the seal and used my bandsaw to cut a 3/4" thick piece of hardwood about 1/4" larger in diameter than the outer edge of the seal. I then used my table top belt sander to smooth the edges. The edges really don't need to be smoothed, but the wood looks real nice now after sanding it down on the edges. I then took some very thin plywood (1/8" or less) and did the same thing i.e. draw a line around the seal on the thin plywood. I then did the same thing as the thicker piece of wood (cut it on the bandsaw and smoothed it on my belt sander), except I made the thin plywood just slightly smaller than the outside of the seal. I then used some small brads to nail the thin plywood to the thicker wood. This will allow the thin plywood to fit inside the hub when I tap the seal into place. I am attaching some pictures of the "tool" I made. I haven't tried it yet, but it seems like it will work OK. Plywood could be used for the thicker hardwood to prevent any possibility of the wood cracking, but I had some white ash, so I used it. Since the tool is rarely use, it should work fine for the few times I need it.
                    Rusty Nelson

                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Original Thread

                      Damaged rear axle keyway!

                      You need to keep the axle taper clean dry and smooth, and keep the axle nut tight to prevent damage like this.
                      I wonder if someone was spinning the rear wheel, then hit dry pavement to do this much damage?
                      This is the second free axle I got with this kind of damage.
                      003.JPG
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Use this old school fibrous type grease on the rear wheel bearings. Randy Gross only recommends using this product. My personal feeling is this grease helps to prevent the bearing end cages from wearing. Pack the bearing good, but remember to keep the taper on the axle and in the hub free of grease. You want the taper to lock together
                        Stalube SL3131

                        https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL31...p?ie=UTF8&th=1

                        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                        This gallery has 1 photos.
                        3 ~ Tudor's
                        Henry Ford said
                        "It's all nuts and bolts"


                        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          To remove the rear hub seal, make a few holes with an awl, then screw in the slide hammer.

                          https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...0Q3YkBegQIABAL
                          You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                          This gallery has 1 photos.
                          3 ~ Tudor's
                          Henry Ford said
                          "It's all nuts and bolts"


                          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Rear axle seals
                            3 ~ Tudor's
                            Henry Ford said
                            "It's all nuts and bolts"


                            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                            Comment

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