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Brake Adjustment Procedure:
I've noticed posts about sticking brake pedals and poor brakes. If the brake rods are not set up correctly , the brakes will be poor even if all parts are new . Here is how I do mine . I first adjust the brake adjustment wedges at each wheel with the brake rods disconnected at the clevis end . I start by adjusting the wedges at the rear wheels . Because of the design of the rear wheel bearings and bearing races, wear will effect rear brake adjustment . In other words if the rear brakes are adjusted with the rear axle on stands the brakes will often be WAY TOO tight with the wheels on the road . I first adjust the rear wheel brakes with the wheels on the shop floor where the wheels support the weight of the car with all brake rods disconnected . It is important that the tires are fully inflated so that they can roll easily with less resistance . The average guy should have the strength to slightly roll the car by the back bumper , back and forth to feel the drag when the rear adjustment wedges are tightened . When the desired drag is obtained ,iback off the adjustment as needed . I then proceed to the front brake adjustment with the front axle on stands . If all is good the front brake levers should lean foward about fifteen degrees. Sometimes brake pills-shims may be needed at the front lower brake wedges to obtain the foward lean on the front brake levers . I then proceed to the service brake cross shaft and pedal set up .It has often been said that the levers on the cross shaft should point straight up and down . To acheive this adjustment the plunger end of the pedal rod , where it meets the brake light switch should be within 1/16 inch from the inner rear of the center crossmember on 30-31 models where the brake light switch attaches . The brake light switch mounts in a different place on 28-29 models but the plunger on the pedal shaft should have the same1/16 inch clearance between the plunger and the inner rear side of the center crossmember . I now proceed to adjust the clevis on the pedal rod so that the pedal will be at the top of its travel , now prop the pedal up in place . I then adjust the clevis at the end of the service brake rods so that the clevis pins will just penetrate through the brake rod clevices and the brake levers . The levers need to be pulled backwards on the front levers and foward on the rear levers to remove ALL slack when the clevice pins are installed . When the brake rods , brake pedal and service brake cross shaft is set up in this manner with all slack adjusted out , the brake lining will be ready to meet the drum with the slightest depression of the brake pedal for best brakes. The early 28s before separate emergency brakes were added were different . The early brake rods were not adjustable and were made to a specific length that doesn't apply to the later model A brakes .
By Jim Mason:
Good article in tech section. I'd like to add one correction, the brake rods on the VE and early vehicles were adjustable. the non adjustable rods were used May to Nov
I've noticed posts about sticking brake pedals and poor brakes. If the brake rods are not set up correctly , the brakes will be poor even if all parts are new . Here is how I do mine . I first adjust the brake adjustment wedges at each wheel with the brake rods disconnected at the clevis end . I start by adjusting the wedges at the rear wheels . Because of the design of the rear wheel bearings and bearing races, wear will effect rear brake adjustment . In other words if the rear brakes are adjusted with the rear axle on stands the brakes will often be WAY TOO tight with the wheels on the road . I first adjust the rear wheel brakes with the wheels on the shop floor where the wheels support the weight of the car with all brake rods disconnected . It is important that the tires are fully inflated so that they can roll easily with less resistance . The average guy should have the strength to slightly roll the car by the back bumper , back and forth to feel the drag when the rear adjustment wedges are tightened . When the desired drag is obtained ,iback off the adjustment as needed . I then proceed to the front brake adjustment with the front axle on stands . If all is good the front brake levers should lean foward about fifteen degrees. Sometimes brake pills-shims may be needed at the front lower brake wedges to obtain the foward lean on the front brake levers . I then proceed to the service brake cross shaft and pedal set up .It has often been said that the levers on the cross shaft should point straight up and down . To acheive this adjustment the plunger end of the pedal rod , where it meets the brake light switch should be within 1/16 inch from the inner rear of the center crossmember on 30-31 models where the brake light switch attaches . The brake light switch mounts in a different place on 28-29 models but the plunger on the pedal shaft should have the same1/16 inch clearance between the plunger and the inner rear side of the center crossmember . I now proceed to adjust the clevis on the pedal rod so that the pedal will be at the top of its travel , now prop the pedal up in place . I then adjust the clevis at the end of the service brake rods so that the clevis pins will just penetrate through the brake rod clevices and the brake levers . The levers need to be pulled backwards on the front levers and foward on the rear levers to remove ALL slack when the clevice pins are installed . When the brake rods , brake pedal and service brake cross shaft is set up in this manner with all slack adjusted out , the brake lining will be ready to meet the drum with the slightest depression of the brake pedal for best brakes. The early 28s before separate emergency brakes were added were different . The early brake rods were not adjustable and were made to a specific length that doesn't apply to the later model A brakes .
By Jim Mason:
Good article in tech section. I'd like to add one correction, the brake rods on the VE and early vehicles were adjustable. the non adjustable rods were used May to Nov
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