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Fickens wiper service does a quality job on repairing Vacuum wipers
Fickens wiper service does a quality job on repairing Vacuum wipers
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr -
Wiper hole mounting locations,, courtesy Marco
marcos wiper install.jpg
Hand Wiper Mount
image_47861.jpg3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr -
Does anyone have a picture of the vacuum line routing on a Slant Wind shield or Victoria? I would like to see from the inside of the fire wall and up the post and across the header. The line sold by the suppliers doesn't seem right. It is 35.5 inches straight line and then a 90 degree turn and another three inches. Is this supposed to go from the firewall fitting up the piller and stop to be followed by a rubber line across the header and into the interior?Comment
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The first few pics i had saved were from Mark Maron
mark maron wiper6.jpg
mark m wiper1.jpgmark m wiper4.jpgmarm m wiper2.jpgwiperline.jpg
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here are some more;You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.Comment
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this information was very useful to fix the vacuum line in the frame of the windshield, also I share a file that insurance have already seen Thank youComment
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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thank you all, I send you a greeting from Buenos Aires ArgentinaComment
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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Early 28 Closed Car Wiper
Original Thread
There was a question posed on the other site about how the early '28 closed car wiper wire swing arm attaches to the motor. I though it would be of some interest to post my reply and a couple of pictures here.The wire wiper swing arm takes a 90 degree bend that fits through a hole through the end of the main shaft. There is a very small bracket that then goes over the shaft to hold the swing arm into place. It attaches to a tension spring that attaches to another small bracket that when moved down the arm, extends the spring, and applies more tension to the swing arm. AS you can see, it was not the best application, and therefore replaced by the more common spring steel swing arm. Here are a couple of pictures that should help explain how these go together.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 2 photos.Comment
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
-
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
-
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
-
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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HA-C2 Wiper Refresh
Original Thread
I haven't really seen much on refurbishing electric wipers. Mine worked well enough but it was time to pull it apart, tighten up the bushings and re-grease everything so I figured I'd document the process here. I've taken the cover off the lube the motor before but that's about it so I'm learning as I go.
After pulling the motor cover off, the next thing I did was take off the shaft which is held in with two very short 4-40 screws. Next step was to remove the coils and armature (held in with two screws through the gear case) which required un-soldering three wires (pic attached). The brushes could also then be removed (not shown is the little retaining bar that has to be removed first).
With those delicate parts in a safe place I used a small punch to open the gear case. The most difficult part of this step was scraping all of the crud off the ON/OFF shaft to fully separate the case halves. (pictures of the interior of both halves attached). Take note of how the gears are arranged (see picture) and make sure to keep tabs on the washers that are under the gears. There is also a small paper insulator around the power post that will almost definitely be destroyed when taking things apart, I imagine a piece of heat shrink will work well as a replacement.
After removing the gears, the case halves took a bath in the ultrasonic. Some parts were also washed in mineral spirits. Now I'm at the point of paint and reassembly which will follow.
Appendix: repairing the shaft bushing.
The main wiper shaft had quite a bit of play in the front bushing. To tighten it up I filled it with solder and drilled it back out to size. Removal of the gear is straight forward, pull the retaining pins and slide everything off. Taking measurements, the shaft was .247" and the bushing ID was .258... .011" of slop is too much. The rear bushing was actually in decent shape and could be left alone.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.Last edited by rheacox; 02-15-2023, 09:44 AM.Comment
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Part 2, Reassembly:
Reassembly is reasonably straight forward, it's the opposite of disassembly but there are a few notes I made. First is to be careful with how much heat you apply to the brushes when resoldering the wires. I overheated the one actuated by the on/off lever and started to melt the insulator. This meant that the brush wasn't free to pivot on it's post and the spring tension wasn't enough to hold it firmly against the commutator. I ended up having to remove the brush and run the correct size drill bit through it.
The second tricky(ish) bit is re-timing the wiper shaft. I first got it close by spinning the motor until the rack gear was at one of its extremes and then installing the wiper shaft at its corresponding end of travel. This took about three attempts of installing, running the motor, noting which side it favored and then removing the wiper shaft and shifting the gear a tooth or two in the correct direction. Here's the finished product humming away, quite a bit quieter and smoother than it was before. https://youtube.com/shorts/JOF1ioi_3b8
A note on grease and paint. A highly subjective matter but for what it's worth I decided to paint the gear case with a brush (lots of masking, oil felts I didn't want to remove). For grease I had a tube of Lubriplate Aero that is advertised as very stable and long lasting. It's an NLGI #1 grease, very soft and should keep the gears running quietly.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 5 photos.Comment
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