Shock links

[Captndan]

Sooner or later you are going to rebuild a shock link. Problem is the link and your hands are greasy. Other problem is the parts won't stay put when you try to put the link on. So, put the link together on the bench but leave the top cap off. Fill the link with grease Red Sticky is advised. Put the link on the shock FIRST then on the perch. Put in the cap adjust and use a cotter pin. Clean your hands and tell yourself 'good job.'

[Dennis]

Thanks for the tip on shock links. I'll be installing mine next week when my new Stipe shocks arrive.

[Mitch]

Another way to skin a shock link:
I took a screw with a rounded head to lock the bottom in place on the perch ball which will also compress the spring for fitting the top on the shock arm ball. Once the shock arm ball was started on the brass cupi removed the plug and the screw with a pencil magnet. Then used a channel locks to snap it on the ball the rest of the way. Use the end plug to adjust the tension as needed.. protect the link from marring it with the channel locks using a thick towel..

The screw stayed positioned nicely cause the point of it sat into the hole in the brass cup, the rounded head worked perfect for the underside of the threaded plug. The screw I used is an inch long

SEE POST #8 BELOW

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[Dan Partain]

Shock Link Bushing Differences

About 5 years ago I was comparing some repro shock link bushings to an original and took some photos. None of them at the time were very close to an original. I'm sure you can tell which one is the original. Does anyone sell a better reproduction part these days? -DAN

[Mitch]

Dan that is a big difference on the fit off the ball, but the grease hole size is way bigger. Everyone seems to be carrying the same style repo bushing like you pictured.
Great documentation

[Tom Wesenberg]

Bronze original has to be better than the brass, but otherwise they look like they should fit and function OK.
The brass will just wear out quicker, but for most of us that might not happen in our lifetime.
I would polish the balls to a smooth finish and keep them well greased, and you should be Ok.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Buster T. asks, "Whut Balls"
Dogs'Dad

[Mitch]

Addendum to above post #3


Installed shock links using my screw trick. Quick easy and painless. The pics are in order to the instructions.

1. Build the link up on the lower perch ball keeping it fully engaged onto the ball
2. Once it’s built up as shown, insert the special screw and install the threaded link cap
3. Put some tension on the screw,(not to much) this will hold it in place on the lower ball
4. Stand the link vertical and position the shock arm ball so it is lined up with the link hole
5. Now that everything is in position tighten the threaded link cap as far as you can.
6. Don’t do step #5 until the link is in position to accept the ball. Doing so will prevent you from pivoting the link in position because it will be to tight.
7. Now that the cap is real tight squeeze the link onto the shock arm ball or tap it on with a rubber mallet. This will start the ball on top of the brass cup and against the screw.
8. Now remove the threaded cap and the screw with a pencil magnet.
9. Squeeze or tap the link the rest of the way on.
10. Noe install the top brass cup and threaded cap.
11. Your all done...

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[Mitch]

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[gdaquilina]

I could not find anything in shock link thread about the teflon ball seats used in place of the brass or bronze ones. I installed the teflon seats in my shock links 25 years ago (a well as the EZ Steer kit for the drag link and tie rod) and have been very pleased with them. They show virtually no wear after 25,000 miles, the balls look like new, and no greasing is required. Bratton's carries them.

[Mitch]

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[MANYHERRAMIENTAS]

What grease is used as a lubricant?

[MANYHERRAMIENTAS]

I bought a set of tubular links for the front axle, so I'm going to take advantage of the Mitch method

[MANYHERRAMIENTAS]

Is there a difference in the ride of the car between the tubular link and the dog bone?

[Mitch]

What grease is used as a lubricant?

Regular chassis grease

[Mitch]

Is there a difference in the ride of the car between the tubular link and the dog bone?

Never heard of a report one way or the other regarding ride, so it’’s probably a non issue.

[MANYHERRAMIENTAS]

Never heard of a report one way or the other regarding ride, so it’’s probably a non issue.

Able to express me wrong.
I wonder if there is a difference in the handling of the car between one system or another?

[Mitch]

I would think that if the rubber dog bones were tight with no play it would feel the same. In my opinion it is more of an authenticity thing

[Mitch]

Let us know if you feel a difference

[MANYHERRAMIENTAS]

I'm sure I'll let you know if I find a difference, although I think there won't be much

[Cape Codder]

Original Thread


Shock Link Tool -2.jpg Well here is the way I did mine finally. I must Shock Link Tool in Link.jpg Shock Link Tool Compressing Spring.jpg say I had that third hand but the end result is that they are in! The two pictures on the Left show how I ground down a front spring shackle. The next picture shows the tool in the Link while the last one shows the spring being compressed by the "C" clamp. NOTE : I put an old Link cup on the bottom to protect the bottom of the Link from damage!
Shock Link Tool - 1.jpg

[BudP]

Original thread

I have fastened original shock links only 20-24 times over the years (5 or 6 Model A's) and I have processed through various means of affixing them to the appropriate balls and I thought I would share my experience. If you have a more successful approach, please share.

I have used four methods:

1. Soft faced, dead blow hammer: doable, takes many blows, if your grip weakens on the link, expect the bottom of the link to "squirt" out: then you start pounding again after strengthening your grip on the link.

2. C-clamp with a 3 inch spread: OK but this is a greasy job after a while and it's hard to maintain a center line between the clamp faces.

3. 12 inch channel locks: better than a C-clamp; tight grip on bottom of shock link, squeeze top of shock link to about 40% of getting the ball into the oval hole in the link, then use channel locks. Not bad approach.

4. Cantilever C-Clamp: best approach! Floating jaws with differing textures, maintains center line of gripping surfaces better than a C-clamp, has four different, rotatable gripping surfaces, once it grips you have a free hand to use gentle taps with soft faced dead blow hammer to keep the force line straight.

Tips: 1. grease balls and surfaces of shock ball seat, whether nylon or the original brass.

2. original brass seats are thinner (i.e., IMO better spec'd than the new nylon seats) and easier to work with.

3.stop screwing in the grease fitting when it stops or you will push the bottom of the link off its perch on the round ball.

Here is what I now use; about $30 on Amazon:

Cantilever C-Clamp.JPG