Removing Door Handles and Repairing Door Latches and Locks

[Tom Wesenberg]

I had to replace some broken springs in my 1929 Tudor. To remove the handle, just remove the 2 screws on the outside, then turn the handle 45 degrees, wiggle it as you pull outward. Spraying Kroil on the square shaft helps during removal, as does holding the flap inward to relieve some pressure. Then you can remove the screws on the latch assembly and work the latch out of the door. It's very tight getting the part past the fold in the door skin, so use tape to protect your paint. Once it's out you can clean it up and replace the broken springs, or weld up worn areas that need to be repaired. Be sure to lube all the moving parts, and you'll have nice working door latches. In the 4th picture, you can see that I still need to replace the broken spring in the middle of the door handle rod. In the 3rd picture you can see the loop end of the spring that need to be tucked into the door as the latch assembly is slid into place.

[Tom Wesenberg]

To lubricate the outside part of the latch, use "Door Ease" from the auto parts store, or you can use a toilet bowl wax ring from Menards for only $1.50, and this would be a lifetime supply. It's bees wax and also works great for aluminum car top carriers where you have a cam action to lock the carrier to the rain gutter. You don't want to use grease, which might get on clothing.

Dave in our Model A club also reminded me that wax is used on grinding wheels to keep them from loading up when grinding aluminum.

[CM2]

I have a locked outer door handle,how do you remove it? can I do it without cutting the shaft?

[DaWizard]

The same way as when it's unlocked.

Remove the screws holding the escutcheon(sp) and twist ¼ turn and pull.

[Mitch]

Locks in those days were for honest people

[DaWizard]

Well, I know the one on my '28 Tudor was as stated. I pulled the screws, pulled on the handle turning ¼ turn, came right out, went back in same way.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Actually it's 1/8th turn, then wiggle the handle as you pull. If you roll the window down and spray the shaft with Kroil, it helps.
I've done a couple handle shafts that had some rust and were really tough to make them slide through the latch.

[Mitch]

Tom will this work even if the handle is locked?

[Barnfind]

I had to replace some broken springs in my 1929 Tudor. To remove the handle, just remove the 2 screws on the outside, then turn the handle 45 degrees, wiggle it as you pull outward. Spraying Kroil on the square shaft helps during removal, as does holding the flap inward to relieve some pressure. Then you can remove the screws on the latch assembly and work the latch out of the door. It's very tight getting the part past the fold in the door skin, so use tape to protect your paint. Once it's out you can clean it up and replace the broken springs, or weld up worn areas that need to be repaired. Be sure to lube all the moving parts, and you'll have nice working door latches. In the 4th picture, you can see that I still need to replace the broken spring in the middle of the door handle rod. In the 3rd picture you can see the loop end of the spring that need to be tucked into the door as the latch assembly is slid into place.

I will take that inside door handle from that photo

[L Jones]

Repairing door locks

Original thread


Original door locks in working condition are getting very hard to find, so it is necessary to repair as many as possible. If you have one with the small pin on the end broken off, this is one way to repair it.
Drill a hole and make a new pin, I make the pins so they can be pushed in with your fingers and put some glue on it. If you make it a tight fit and hammer it in the pot metal cylinder might crack.


lock 01.jpglock 02.jpglock 03.jpglock 04.jpglock 05.jpg

[Rowdy]

Been wondering when someone might try making new lock cyl's for the Model A as scarce as good ones are to find. Until then we will have to try to repair what we have or use the current repop handles that have mixed reviews. Rod

[Mitch]

Thank you for sharing that lock repair info. What are you using for the new pin? And how are you making it?

[L Jones]

Pin made from a 1/8 inch welding rod, on a lathe. Did not want to drill right next to the edge on the pot metal cylinder, so I drilled a smaller hole and stepped down the pin. the part of the pin that shows is the same size as the original pin.

[Bob C]

Does anyone have pictures of how the get the lock cylinder out of the handle on a 1930-31 truck.
There are a couple of swaged areas, one looks like it holds a washer that retains a spring and the other
looks like it keeps the shaft in place. I'm wondering if I grind the ones off the shaft if I can get the shaft
and lock cylinder out. I have the key.

[L Jones]

You have to remove the sleeve to release the spring clip holding the cylinder.
The sleeve will not come off until you remove the metal bar shown in the closeup.
If the pin on the cylinder is broke off you can pull the bar out, if the pin is not broke you have to grind the end off of the bar with a dremmel tool then make a new bar in a milling machine.
Most people will damage the first 2 or 3 handles that they work on beyond repair. If you do not have some spare handles to practice on, and a milling machine, I recommend you leave it alone and send it to someone.
On some handles the sleeve has some tabs holding it on and you have to drill some holes to bend the tabs before the sleeve will come off, in addition to the bar.

Handle 01.jpgHandle 02.jpgHandle 03.jpg

[Mitch]

Coursey of Mikes Afordable and L Jones

image_38952.jpg

[Jim Mason]

Handle restore.jpg

[Mitch]

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