I had to replace some broken springs in my 1929 Tudor. To remove the handle, just remove the 2 screws on the outside, then turn the handle 45 degrees, wiggle it as you pull outward. Spraying Kroil on the square shaft helps during removal, as does holding the flap inward to relieve some pressure. Then you can remove the screws on the latch assembly and work the latch out of the door. It's very tight getting the part past the fold in the door skin, so use tape to protect your paint. Once it's out you can clean it up and replace the broken springs, or weld up worn areas that need to be repaired. Be sure to lube all the moving parts, and you'll have nice working door latches. In the 4th picture, you can see that I still need to replace the broken spring in the middle of the door handle rod. In the 3rd picture you can see the loop end of the spring that need to be tucked into the door as the latch assembly is slid into place.
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Removing Door Handles and Repairing Door Latches and Locks
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Removing Door Handles and Repairing Door Latches and Locks
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This gallery has 4 photos.Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 09-02-2017, 10:51 AM.Tags: None
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To lubricate the outside part of the latch, use "Door Ease" from the auto parts store, or you can use a toilet bowl wax ring from Menards for only $1.50, and this would be a lifetime supply. It's bees wax and also works great for aluminum car top carriers where you have a cam action to lock the carrier to the rain gutter. You don't want to use grease, which might get on clothing.
Dave in our Model A club also reminded me that wax is used on grinding wheels to keep them from loading up when grinding aluminum.
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Well, I know the one on my '28 Tudor was as stated. I pulled the screws, pulled on the handle turning ¼ turn, came right out, went back in same way.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View PostI had to replace some broken springs in my 1929 Tudor. To remove the handle, just remove the 2 screws on the outside, then turn the handle 45 degrees, wiggle it as you pull outward. Spraying Kroil on the square shaft helps during removal, as does holding the flap inward to relieve some pressure. Then you can remove the screws on the latch assembly and work the latch out of the door. It's very tight getting the part past the fold in the door skin, so use tape to protect your paint. Once it's out you can clean it up and replace the broken springs, or weld up worn areas that need to be repaired. Be sure to lube all the moving parts, and you'll have nice working door latches. In the 4th picture, you can see that I still need to replace the broken spring in the middle of the door handle rod. In the 3rd picture you can see the loop end of the spring that need to be tucked into the door as the latch assembly is slid into place.
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Repairing door locks
Original thread
Original door locks in working condition are getting very hard to find, so it is necessary to repair as many as possible. If you have one with the small pin on the end broken off, this is one way to repair it.
Drill a hole and make a new pin, I make the pins so they can be pushed in with your fingers and put some glue on it. If you make it a tight fit and hammer it in the pot metal cylinder might crack.
lock 01.jpglock 02.jpglock 03.jpglock 04.jpglock 05.jpg
Attached Files- lock 01.jpg (56.3 KB, 526 views)
- lock 02.jpg (52.0 KB, 460 views)
- lock 03.jpg (63.7 KB, 458 views)
- lock 04.jpg (52.5 KB, 457 views)
- lock 05.jpg (67.9 KB, 462 views)
- lock 01.jpg (56.3 KB, 457 views)
- lock 02.jpg (52.0 KB, 458 views)
- lock 03.jpg (63.7 KB, 460 views)
- lock 04.jpg (52.5 KB, 453 views)
- lock 05.jpg (67.9 KB, 459 views)
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Does anyone have pictures of how the get the lock cylinder out of the handle on a 1930-31 truck.
There are a couple of swaged areas, one looks like it holds a washer that retains a spring and the other
looks like it keeps the shaft in place. I'm wondering if I grind the ones off the shaft if I can get the shaft
and lock cylinder out. I have the key.
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You have to remove the sleeve to release the spring clip holding the cylinder.
The sleeve will not come off until you remove the metal bar shown in the closeup.
If the pin on the cylinder is broke off you can pull the bar out, if the pin is not broke you have to grind the end off of the bar with a dremmel tool then make a new bar in a milling machine.
Most people will damage the first 2 or 3 handles that they work on beyond repair. If you do not have some spare handles to practice on, and a milling machine, I recommend you leave it alone and send it to someone.
On some handles the sleeve has some tabs holding it on and you have to drill some holes to bend the tabs before the sleeve will come off, in addition to the bar.
Handle 01.jpgHandle 02.jpgHandle 03.jpg
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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To lubricate the outside part of the door latch, use "Door Ease" from the auto parts store, or you can use a toilet bowl wax ring from Menards for only $1.50, and this would be a lifetime supply. You don't want to use grease, which might get on clothing. It's bees wax and also works great for aluminum car top carriers where you have a cam action to lock the carrier to the rain gutter....
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Channel: Model A Forum
01-24-2018, 12:57 PM -
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by Antique_IronWhat kind of magic is used to remove the door latch on 28 Tudor? Regardless of how I maneuver it I can't get it out!
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Channel: Model A Forum
12-25-2022, 07:39 PM -
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So have spent the last 2 days installing new door windlass and interior panels. Almost done, just getting ready to nail on the drivers door card, checked to see if all was OK, the handle return spring OK, lock OK, but absolutely no spring action on the latch.
I hate doing things for the 1st time, crap always seems to happen to me.
Found this here on VFF. If I have to do this,...-
Channel: Model A Forum
07-06-2022, 02:57 PM -
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by AretinoNeed to know how to remove passenger door handle on my 31 coupe. The lever shaft seems to be captured by something internal of the door. I purchased a new locking handle assembly and need advice on how to install. Thanks
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Channel: Model A Forum
05-31-2019, 02:55 PM -
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by Art EbelingThe right outside door handle on my 31 Victoria will not turn the latch. The handle shaft will just about grab the square hole but then slide past it as if it is rounded off. Do you think it could just be the rounded edges on the handle shaft where it grabs the latch or is the latch square hole too rounded out? What is the fix? Art...
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Channel: Model A Forum
08-09-2022, 10:17 AM -
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by BeaufordFor some reson my pass door on my 29 RPU wont stay shut. It always needed a slam but now that doesnt even work. Latches and mechanisms are all new. Spring on latch is strong. I know the door is a little off but didn't know if something was easier than shimming.
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Channel: Model A Forum
09-13-2018, 08:10 PM -
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by albjerrygI have the 1955 Victoria just got it and trying to fix the little things wrong with it. The passenger door does not close properly. It hits like a thud. The wheel on the door is loose and the door button stays pushed in. Does any one have a good diagram or picture that shows how the door mechanic work are a site that might have it. I have ordered a new/used door latch assembly. Thanks for any help....
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06-16-2019, 10:42 AM -
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I’ve changed the striker, door latch too but it will not click two times as it closes. I, clearanced the outside of the door frame so there is space around the door and adjusted the striker a few times too. You push the door in, click but it will not click again to close the door. Is the door still contacting the body or is the striker the culprit,,,Thank you...
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Channel: Model A Forum
01-16-2019, 05:36 PM -
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by GranTudorI have been trying to install the latch return springs on the inside door latch rods and get the end of the latch return spring in the hole in the door latch . Of course all are epoxy painted but can be repainted. Thanks Grant.
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Channel: Model A Forum
10-15-2018, 02:18 PM -
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by albjerrygHaving trouble aligning passenger door so it will close properly. I tried flowing the manual but it gone from bad to worse. I had an idea of losing the screws on the hinge door side then closing the door with the screws loose so the door will fit correctly. I gotten that far and door fit good now I need to get in the car with the door close and tighten the hinge screws. Does that sound crazy??????...
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06-28-2019, 05:42 PM -
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