Motor Oil Weight Poll & Which Engine Oil to use Info!!

[Mitch]

What is your favorite weight oil to use? Did I miss any?

Multiple choice answers are allowed.

This is a public poll so others can see your vote.

[tbirdtbird]

my break-in choice is conventional, and my choice after 1K is synthetic. And non-D is a disaster waiting to happen. Sorry, I could not make my preferences fit the poll!! LOL LOL. Now why did you have to put 2-stroke oil up there, because now someone will wanna try it!!!

[Mitch]

I was also thinking about putting MMO up there. LMAO

[Dennis]

No 10w30 synthetic? I will run it in the winter when it's time to change.

[Mitch]

OK dennis it's up there.. Vote away

[Patrick]

8% non-detergent and 0% 30W detergent ?! Thats surprising.

[Mitch]

I cleaned up the poll and removed the weight categories that were not voted on. This included the two stroke oil division per Dave's request: )
If you see something not listed i can add it, just ask before you vote

[Dennis]

Mitch thanks for adding the 10W30 full synthetic. I went ahead before you added it and voted other not mentioned.

[tbirdtbird]

Rats, you removed 2-stroke oil? Does that mean I have to drain it out of my car???

[Mitch]

Maybe I'll add "WASTE OIL"

[George Miller]

I'm surprised that 15-40 is so far ahead.

[Terry, NJ]

It's so far ahead because that's what most Rotella is. Rotella is preferred for the zinc. Also, there may be some tax benefits from buying from TSC for some members.

[George Miller]

What happened to all the guys that said they were using non detergent. At one time there seemed to be many.

[Mitch]

They could be stuck in a dark cave and may not know about our poll

[George Miller]

Like on the dark side.

[Mitch]

You said it not me, I'm a good boy

[George Miller]

Do you mean a good Boy just today.

[dmdeaton]

I haven't changed my oil yet, don't know what to choose yet, you guys have my head swimming!

[Twiss58]

You can use pretty much any modern oil you want. If you have poured Babbitt bearing stay away from 5w20 or anything that says fuel saving oil. That stuff is meant for engines with tight tolerences.

[DaWizard]

Hey Twiss58, WELCOME to the VFF!!

Way to sneak in.

[Larry Jenkins]

I think after the Model A engine is somewhat broken in and runs well, that synthetic oil has many advantages over conventional.

Much cleaner engine; friction is substantially reduced and the additives are sufficient, IMHO. I would use Mobil 1 10W30 if I still had a Model A with the original design engine.

Larry Jenkins

[dmdeaton]

I voted mobil 1 10W40 cause that's what I use in my old truck and Costco puts it on sale few times a year. I might as well start using it.

[A29tudor]

Same here. Like the results and the cars seem to like. Just finished a 4700 tour and used no oil on a semi stock engine, inserts, 6.0 snyder head and touring cam with 3.54.rear gears and stock transmission.

[carolinamudwalker]

I don't see vegetable oil listed. I also use it instead of gas, I have been told that my car smells like French fries when I drive by. I have a contract with all the fast food eateries in the area to pick up there used oil.

[30Pickemup]

I thought I’d try “Crude Oil?” - but I’m a newbie ....

[Mitch]

btt

[jordanka16]

I use 15w40 Delo mostly because that weight seems to be best as per the collective model A wisdom. Is rotella that much better? I use full synthetic Rotella 15W40 in my motorcycle already.

[40B1930]

Why I prefer Delo 15w-40

Viscosity: On a cold start-up versus when warmed up, versus w/ a 160 deg temp. with a thermostat.
A good understanding how oil circulates in the motor.
Additives: zinc is preferred - local auto stores stock it.
Babbitt bearing metallurgy versus insert bearings: I have never poured any babbitt and I understand there are a few choices regarding babbitt quality. I do understand stock babbitt is much softer and suffer “pounding” compared to our modern bearings.
Oil changes: I change mine every 300 miles simply because its really inexpensive preventative maintenance compared to rebuilding a motor. If I toured, I would have an inserted touring motor and still change it every 500 miles.
Climate: One must give serious consideration to this aspect of choosing the right oil for your car. What seasonal temps. will your motor incur i.e. Minnesota, Florida, San Diego, Alaska = viscosity
For my purposes, a few years ago I mapped out the above criteria for my situation here in Oregon, queried a few senior club members and chose Delo.

Indeed, Delo not only has demonstrated it is a superb fit to my critera, it has surpassed all expectations. I have never had reason to second guess myself.

[sphanna]

I use 0w30 full synthetic beause that is what my engine rebuilder recommended. I voted for 5w30 synthetic because my builder said 0w30 or 10w30 synthetic. I thought that to be a little thin but I don't use oil (except about 1/2 quart in my 1500 mile change schedule )I do have a full flow filter.

[Beauford]

15/40

[Atlasboy]

Which Engine Oil to use?!!

Original Thread

I have a 1931 Model A with an original engine, never out of the frame or rebuilt. What type and weight oil would be the best for this Car ?

[JDupuis]

Hey Atlasboy, great to see you posting again.
Your oil question, is one of alot of discussion on the forum.
Mitch did a poll on oil types that everyone uses.
The related topics section, listed below, will bring up related threads as well.
I personally use 15w40 Shell Rotella, as a friend of mine, also on this forum, suggested this type.
He was in the oil business, so I trust his advice.
Good Luck !

[Leo]

Not much information to work with here. When was this engine last run? What's in the oil pan? Pull the valve cover and oil pan to see if any crud is in there. If it looks clean refer to the bazillion posts we've got about oil preferences. If it looks dirty with sludge I would clean the pan, oil pump and valve chamber making sure that oil is reaching the main bearings before I would fill it with fresh oil and try to start it.

[DaWizard]

Atlasboy, there is enough oil information here to fill a small book and it is all great information. The one thing you need to remember is, the oil blends of today have no comparison to the oils used 86+ years ago, so what ever your wallet can afford is going to be good. One thing I do agree on is don't run non-detergent oils.

Personally, yesterday at a local "cruise night" it just happens to be within walking distance of a WalMart and I took the stroll and purchased the last two bottles of their generic conventional 20w50 oil. Since I am filtering the oil, I don't feel it necessary to change it every 500 miles, but I do change it often and at $12.88/1.25gal(5qt) I'm not breaking the bank but I am protecting the engine.

Remember, without an oil pan drop, it only takes about 4qt so with the 5qt bottle, there will be some left over, do not over fill it! Since there is a small usage between changes, I just keep that bottle handy and keep the oil topped off til the change time.

If I were to take an old engine and get it running, first thing I would do is drain the oil, bend a coat hanger at a right angle and stick it up in the drain hole and twist it around to see just how much sludge is in there. If it is deep, pull the pan, if not, toss a quart of ATF in with the first oil and run it for only a few minutes, enough to heat up the engine and change oil. If you do this, see if the sludge starts to loosen up and exit the drain. If not, you can run the same oil through cheese cloth and put it back in the engine and run it more. I have increased the amount of ATF with each change and straining, but don't go over 50/50 as you still need the heavier oil lubrication.

If you pull the pan, also pull the valve cover and check the drains to the main bearings by using a pipe cleaner. These are easily found, the center main is right behind the oil pump/distributor drive, and the front is right behind the first valve lifter boss, and the rear is the same, but behind the last lifter boss. If you need pictures of where they are, ask, if someone else, Dave, doesn't have an open engine, I might be able to come up with something.

But if the sludge build up isn't deep, I see no reason to pull the pan unless this is what you want to do. The ATF is very high detergent and will break loose the crud, so often changes are a must! This doesn't mean you have to use fresh oil with each change, but if you don't use fresh oil, be sure to strain it as you don't want to put the junk drained back in the engine.

I must disclaim, I have done this myself, this is not to say it will work in all cases, I have had it work, and had to drop the pan, so your mileage may vary.

[Mitch]

Atlas take a look at our oil poll in the powertrain tech forum, then draw your own conclusions on which oil to use . If your motor has sludge in it from years of running a non detergent brew then it would be prudent to clean out the valve chamber and the oil pan. Switching to a detergent oil on a sludged motor may cause the main oil feed holes in the valve chamber and the oil pump pick up screen in the pan to get clogged.
Maybe others can add some more relative information

[Twiss58]

If the engine valve chamber and oil pan are clear of sludge, you can use any modern oil you want. Unless you are running insert bearings stay away from the fuel saving oils like 5w20. Once you decide on a type of oil, stay with it. Don't go changing brands etc. as each brand has there own additive package. Best to keep to one type of oil. Me I use Shell Rotella T 15W40. Been using it since 1988 and have never had a oil related issue.

[Atlasboy]

Gentlemen , Thank you all. I apologize that I did not spell out the condition of the Engine , I cannot find much sludge anywhere.
The Engine has been , believe it or not , run at times over the years and kept rather clean, and from what I have been told and what I see , it is rather clean inside.
I will go with a detergent Oil probably 15W40. I always thought that detergent Oil was NG for a Model A as it promotes foam. Maybe I am wrong about that.

[Mitch]

I always thought that detergent Oil was NG for a Model A as it promotes foam

Nope you'll be good

Have fun

[jordanka16]

Sounds like you got it figured out, I also use a 15w40 oil, usually Delo as I get an extremely good deal on it.

[Terry, NJ]

I am another fan of Rotella 15W40! I get mine at TSC in 10 qt containers. As every one else has said, steer clear of non detergent oil. It wasn't fine in Henry's day, It was just all they had.

[CSPIDY]

I was advised by an old timer that if the engine has been using a non detergent, to not switch to a detergent oil. It will loosen the crud and cause problems. If you do decide to use a detergent add a filter and change it often.

[Aretino]

Shell Rotella 30w

[vonheine]

I like to use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil, 20W-50 in my Model A Ford. This oil is formulated for engines with flat tappets and it has a high zinc content. I typically drive my Model A on hot summer days. Model As run pretty hot under these conditions. This particular oil has a high flashpoint, and I believe the engine is protected well with the 50 weight oil. The clearances on these engines are fairly loose compared to today's modern engines. This is especially true if the engine has not been recently overhauled. That 50w oil fills the gaps and occupies any empty space. When I switched to the 50 weight oil the engine sound changed at idle. It never made any noises to indicate pending catastrophic failure, but the sound definitely changed. It runs smoothly and quietly with good power for a stock engine. I check the oil every time I drive the car. The level always stays at the full mark. I also think the 50 weight oil helps control oil leakage. It seems to stay in the engine and not migrate to the garage floor. Read the specifications on the oil and see what you think. Have you hugged your Model A today?

[DaWizard]

Not hugged, but drove it like I stole it!!

[Mitch]

Sludge, non detergent, detergent info!

Original Thread


When early engines (prior to 1954) were new, oil filters were an accessory item and non-detergent oil was the type of oil used. Original, unrestored engines have most likely been run on non-detergent oil. If you are running an early unrestored engine that is not spotlessly clean internally, it is imperative to continue to run it on non-detergent oil. Otherwise there is the risk of damage to the engine.

Non-detergent oil was used before oil filters became standard equipment. This type of oil would "stick" contaminants to the sidewalls and valleys of the engine to prevent dirty oil from damaging bearing surfaces. Engines that have been run on non-detergent oil for many years will have a thick "sludge" buildup. Sludge will appear to be oil that has turned to gelatin except that it will be very black with contaminants.

Using detergent oil in an engine that had been running non-detergent oil would allow these contaminants to be released to flow through the engine. This could result in serious damage to the rod, main and cam bearings as well as other engine components such as lifters and plugging of oil lines.

After an engine has been rebuilt or thoroughly cleaned, use a detergent oil to keep the engine clean. Early oil filters only filtered a small portion of the oil flowing through the engine. Unlike modern, full flow filters, these add-on filters are more of a decoration than real protection for the engine. Even if your engine does not have an oil filter, the number of miles a vintage car is driven is much less than when these cars were new. The simple solution is to change your oil more often. Every 500 miles or a minimum of once per year is a good rule of thumb.

[1930 Closed Cab PU]

Makes sense.

Had not considered all the built up crud slowly being released and damaging bearings over an extended period of time.

The only issue I have is the oil pump screen and valve chamber passages. Continuing to use non-detergent oil will eventually cause an issue with reduced oil flow.

My view/opinion based on my real world experience, which has been posted previously. Best to remove the goo-sludge/contamination asap, and convert to detergent - I feel very strongly about this.

If wanting to switch from non-detergent to detergent, manually clean out oil pan/bottom end/valve chamber/passages - then a couple of treatments of ATF? Then a couple of oil changes monitoring oil condition, change oil when 1st starts looking discolored instead of waiting for 500-1000 mile oil change? Hopefully this would flush all of the contamination out quickly, causing no or minimal damage.

[Mitch]

Had not considered all the built up crud slowly being released and damaging bearings over an extended period of time.

It will continue to breakdown over time and clog the pump screen, then starve the rest of the motor. Before that happens sludge granuals will float through the system and screw ya

[Mike V. Florida]

Non-detergent will allow the contaminates to stay out of suspension and thus out of the Babbitt. Detergent oil (without a filter) will keep the contaminates in suspension and in the Babbitt.

Non-detergent will allow the contaminates to stay out of suspension causing sludge that will remain during draining and diminished oil flow to bearings . Detergent oil prevent sludge maintaining good oil flow and will keep the contaminates in suspension allowing them to be drained.