Fine Point Photos

[mot]

original welting ,rear splash apron to running board 1930-1931

[mot]

[Mitch]

Val and Mark Maron's 494 point 1929 Roadster 40A Henry Award Winner @ Perrysburg Ohio 2016


345 photos

29 roadster photo shoot #1

[Mitch]

29 roadster photo shoot #2

[Mitch]

29 roadster photo shoot #3

[Mitch]

29 roadster photo shoot #4

[Mitch]

29 roadster photo shoot #5

[Mitch]

29 roadster shoot #6

[Mitch]

29 roadster photo shoot #7

[Mitch]

29 roadster photo shoot #8

[Mitch]

29 roadster photo shoot #9

[Mitch]

29 roadster photo shoot #10

[Mitch]

Val did an outstanding job restoring this automobile to fine point!

29 roadster photo shoot #11

[Mitch]

A few pics from the 2017 Gettysburg meet fine point tent!
Photos supplied by Mark Maron

[Mark Maron]

Jim Mason had pictures of Gary Karr's Tudor on his old site. Wonder if he will post them here?

Mike i have those also and can post here

[Mitch]

Gary Karr's 492 point 1929 Tudor Henry Award Winner @ Dearborn 2003

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Gary was kind enough to allow the VFF to document his 29 Tudor. Jim Mason supplied these fabulous photos and captions from his site for our use.
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Feburary 1929 Tudor

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I did a pretty good '70's restoration and drove the car throughout high school and college. I began to do some things to spif it up before the Reno MAFCA meet and one thing lead to another and I ended up restoring it a second time. There was really not much to work with. I sold fenders, hood, gas tank off of it and got all NOS fenders, running boards, aprons, hood shelves, and a mint hood. I had collected lots of NOS stuff from Hershey over the years and started to build a whole new Tudor. I spent over 2000 hours in the shop and took about 3.5 years the second time around.Me:Notice the Ford script center bumper clamp. And the nickel plated screws holding the hood shelves. The straight fluted lens were still in use, in Feburary of 1929. Gary did say he lost a half point on the tools.

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I have owned the car, or most of it since 1969. I bought it for $150.00 and a second one for $250.00 without an engine and trans



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I painted the body in nitrocellulose lacquer as original and the fenders and wheels in PPG "Concept" which is a catalized urathane, single stage. Me: You can see the different finish on the un-buffed back of the bumper compared to the front. Also the bumper end bolt is raven, with a black enamel nut and spacer and unfinished washer.


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NOS items besides the fenders, aprons, boards, are hubcaps, lug nuts, valve stem hardware. I lost 2 points on Area 9, Top for poor workmanship on the front molding and top. I wasn't totally happy with it either, but I really wasn't about to take the top off and do it over again. Me:Gary chose not to paint the area under the rear fender black.


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More nos parts. The drum tail lamp license backing plate, drum, bakelite plug. I lost one point in Area 14 for striping. The judges said that the stripe should go up in two lines on the rear quarter behind the side window to a square off at the top. I took pictures of a very original '29 Tudor that had the stripes joining to a singe spear at the top. Me: This could be a variance at the factory but the paint and finish guide shows it as two stripes.


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photo shows off the great shine of a good paint job, and the beauty of original colors


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Note the thins 'gasket' under the handle escutcheon. Getting the plating smooth in the corners of the details without removing the details is a job well done.


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Ford triplex logo, and the 'gasket materials around the windshield.


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Note the 'rough' casting under the ford blue of the bumper clamps. Also the clipped corners of the rear spring. Also note the ends of the bumperettes where they attach to the bumper supports were dipped in black enamel.


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Cad 10-32X7/8" mounting screws, NOS cad swing arm, flash nickel tension screw and nut. Me: the finish on the owen-dyneto wiper had a slight sheen.


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More NOS parts :95% of wiring, most rubber grommets, and headlight bulbs Me: The ford script had moved to the bottom of the headlight lens. The bolts in the horn rim were raven finished.


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:Emblem is NOS, never replated. Note how dull and thin nickel plating is on it. Me: More great plating


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NOS hubcaps, lug nuts. Me: I was surprised when I learned the Ford script was not as crisp on original caps as on many of the repops.


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Note red centering line on tire. Me: Again the black bumper spacer, and unbuffed back of the bumper. Also the special lock lug nut.


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here's a better view of the lock lug nut.


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Note the different finish on the drum and the bolts. Also the finishes on the license plate bracket mounting bolts. Also the dark red of the lens. Also not the casting marks of the differential center section compared to the welded axle housings.


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[Mitch]

1928/29 license plate clips and hardware. Also note the seamed round tubes in the radiator.


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Nice straight radiator fins, and a closer look, although slightly blurred view of the license plate clips.


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In Area 12, I took the panels apart and padded them with cotton and made my own padding for the seats. I also installed wire in the lap seam on the rear seat bottom cushion. Interior trim, I lost 1.5 points on front seats on workmanship, 1/2 point on rear seat, and 1/2 point on headliner. Actually, that isn't bad for a reworked LeBarron Bonney kit!


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8 1/2" chocolate brown door check strap. Also some of the interior finishes.


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close up of the Firestone F on the door check


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I made my own kick panels and under seat panels using a grained panel board plus pyroxolin cloth edge bindings as original. Colonial gray cardboard with matching pyroxylin cloth bindings, joined at back by simply looping over. (Copied from good original.)


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The steering column antirattler is NOS. Steering wheel is NOS. Me: More interior finishes. Note the flat head screw holding the plated upper steering column bushing.


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Note that the edge binding on top, ends in about middle of panel, but extends up and under windshield moulding. The clip attaching front top edge has grommet for wiper wire.


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Felt pads under pedal plates are black, not gray.Me: Better view of the antirattler. Also the butler/bright finishes on the emergency brake handle and shifter can be seen. Note the aluminum rivet on the pull grip of the emergency brake handle.


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Dash rail and gas tank paint finish unpolished. Me:Showing the butler finish on the dash panel. The words ON OFF had been dropped from the switch plate by this time. Note the horizontal oval of the gas gauge, finishes of the gas shut off valve and the routing of the speedometer cable.


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Nice view of the engine finishes. Japan black on the carb body. Note the 'blob' of solder on the condenser, white and copper gaskets and raven finish on the head studs.


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Orignal hoses and clamps, funnel shape on the radiator inlet. The fan shroud was still be used at this time. Copper gaskets on the plugs, and the 'thick' 3x plugs.


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original fan belt. Note color, wrapped outside layer. Also, original wire going to cutout, note length. No access. Me: Note the finish on the generator cut out, and oil fill cap. Also the right headlight wire is routed in the channel of the fan shroud.


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Cad plated contacts on distributor body. Me: Gary noted he lost a 1/2 point in wiring because the coil wires are reversed. Note that there aren't and shouldn't be boots on the distributor wire.


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Note rough surface of the axle forging. Nothing done to cover up or fill and "over restore."Me: You can see some of the finishes on the front axle. Note the bolt in the spring clips with the nuts facing forward. Gary noted he lost a half point because the rear spring clips are loose. [sorry Gary, I'm the one that found that :-( ]


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Note special hex bolts, square nuts, and cotters. These bolts are tough to find!


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More axle finishes. Note the round bottoms on the 28/29 castlelated nuts. And note the correct way to install a cotter pin. Also the king pin lock bolt is a 'bolt' at this time. You can also see the small headed bolts on the fender hardware.


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Undercarriage finishes can be seen. Dark wood preservative on the floorboards. Properly installed radius rod ball support. Unfinished plug in the drag link.


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anti squeak materials. Forged running board braces. One of five wiring clips. Gary lost a half point for a missing clip (judges missed it)


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backing plates in gloss paint (dipped.) Axle in flatter finish. Me: Note the difference in the welding axle tubes and the castings. Also the second style rear radius rods, full round cone around the brake adjustment.


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[Norm]

Great job Gary , Thanks for sharing . Norm

[Art Ebeling]

Fender Welt

Original Thread

My fenders are painted and ready to be installed. I am not sure of how the welting is especially around the running board aprons. Can someone post some pictures of the welting installed, and how do you finished the ends of the welting? Thanks, Art

[Mark Maron]

Do these help help at all.

[Mark Maron]

Note the “tuck” under the rear and NOT cut off.

[Art Ebeling]

Those are a great help. Thank you Mark.

[Mitch]

Norman Langlois 479 point 1930 Cabriolet 68B Henry Award Winner @ Branson, MO 2018

197 total pictures
Norm Langlois Cabriolet Photo Shoot #1

[Mitch]

Norm Langlois Cabriolet Photo shoot #2

[Mitch]

Norm Langlois Cabriolet Photo shoot #3