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Important Errors contained in the Les Andrews Books

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  • Important Errors contained in the Les Andrews Books


    We have compiled a list of published errors that are in the Les Andrews texts. If you own or reference any of these books it would be prudent to make the appropriate corrections on the pages listed. For anyone that finds additional errors or the same errors listed here on other pages feel free to post your findings on this thread.

    Our corrections are approx values and remember the Model A was built without using Torque wrenches. Most of the things we have listed here can be done by using common sense and feel.

    This is a link to the original thread for this project where the correct procedures were discussed.

    You may also refer to our Specifications page link where these corrections are also revised.

    Red Book Volume 1 errors & corrections:

    Engine Oil Pan Bolts Torque

    page 1-146 & 1-226
    error:: 20 ft. lbs

    correction:: approx 8 ft. lbs ( read the above threads for more info)

    Manifold to Engine Block Nuts Torque

    page 1-134 table 1-5
    error 45 ft. lbs

    correction:: approx 25 ft. lbs

    Valve Chamber Bolts Torque (valve cover)

    page 1-134 table #1-5

    error:: 20 ft. lbs

    correction:: approx 8 ft. lbs ( should be treated the same as the oil pan)

    Cam Shaft Nut Torque

    page 1-134 table #1-5
    error:: 100 ft lbs

    correction:: approx 50 ft lbs

    Timing (setting the rotor position)

    page 2-18 #10
    error:: The book states to set the rotor position opposite #1 contact.

    correction:: Let's mention the timing section when the book says the rotor should point opposite the number one contact it means facing it. >1 the Arrow is opposite the number 1 not this way <1. If you time the engine with the rotor opposite number 1 (<1) your timing will be 180 degrees off.
    note The picture does show the rotor in the correct position.

    Rear Axle Nut Torque

    error:: The specifications card page #1 calls for 100 ft lbs. Page 1-100 calls out 125 ft lbs.

    correction:: Torque the axle nuts to no more than 75 ft lbs

    Brake Rods

    page 1-45
    error:: The book states to adjust all 4 brake rods to 51-7/16" to 51-1/2" in length from eye to eye centers.

    correction:: Service Bulletins page 202 says to adjust the brake rods by setting all the cross shaft and pedal adjustments first. then adjust the rods by removing the slack from each actuating lever until the clevis holes line up.

    Emergency Brake Springs

    page 1-43
    error:: Diagram in the red book shows only one emergency brake band spring

    correction:: There are actually two springs

    Spindle Locking Pin Nut

    page 1-34 #1 AND page 1-35 #9 and page 1-211 #1 & #2
    error:: The book states the wrench/ socket size is 9/16th

    correction:: The correct wrench size / socket to remove the spindle locking pin nut is 11/16th

    Brake Actuating Arm Nut

    page 1-35 #2 and page 1-211
    error:: The book states the wrench/ socket size is 9/16th

    correction:: The correct wrench size / socket to remove the brake actuating arm nut is 11/16th


    Rear Motor Mount Rubber Pads

    page 1-221
    error::Trimming the motor mount rubber.

    correction:: It is no longer needed.

    Rear backing plate nuts

    page 1-40, para 3.
    error: The 4 castle nuts inside the grease baffle requires a 9/16 socket

    correction: It requires a 5/8 socket, not 9/16.


    page 1 Specification's Card
    error:: Transmission 1-1/2 pints
    correction:: Transmissionn 1 pint (service bulletins pg 375)

    error:: Differential 2-1/4 pints
    correction:: Differential 1-1/2 pints (service bulletins pg 375)

    King Pins / Locking Pins

    page 1-209
    error:: The book does not mention about there being a Right and a Left KIng Pin when doing the services

    correction:: Take note that there is a R & L king pin

    Front Spindle Nut

    Page 1-361 Wheel Bearings Castle Nut
    Error: Lists the spindle nut size as 7/8-14 and the wrench size needed as 1-1/4"

    Correction: The spindle nut is 3/4-16 and the wrench size should be 1-1/8"

    Leaf Spring

    Page 1-278 Section 2
    Error: Recommends to use a lock washer on the leaf spring center (tie) bolt

    Correction: A lock washer can break causing the spring pack to loosen

    Stewart Warner Horn

    Page 1-195 step #6
    Error: Remove the ratchet nut

    Correction: The ratchet nut has a left handed thread

    Front spring Perch Nut

    Page 1-7 step #22
    Error: Use a 3/4" socket on the perch nut

    Correction: It takes a 15/16" socket

    Throw Out Bearing

    Page 1-341 Paragraph 17
    Error: No mention of the throw out bearing being a pressed fit

    Correction: Throw-out bearing should be a press fit. Press fit can be done in a bench-top vise using the old throw-out bearing on the face of the new throw-out bearing. Widest O.D. of throw-out bearing should face engine

    Shock Adjustments

    Page 2-13 #2 and #4
    Error: The cold and warm settings for the front shocks are reversed.

    Correction: Front cold should be 5/8 - 3/4 and the front warm should read 3/8th

    Shock to Frame Mounting Hardware

    Page 257 ~ Step #6
    Error: Remove the two castle nuts and cotter pins from the back of the frame for the shock mounting bolts.

    Correction: The shock is mounted using standard style nuts and lock washers

    Drag Link Orientation

    Page 1-110 & 1-111
    Error: Not all Drag LInks are installed in this direction

    Correction: BOP to Oct 1928 the drag link was installed in the opposite direction. (see service bulletin page 290. fig 592

    Differential carrier bearing preload

    Page 1-93
    Error: Bolt on both axle housings without gaskets. This can distort the mating surfaces, which can cause leaks and an improper measurement.

    Correction: BY Jim Brierley I set the housings vertically with the right side bolted tight with 4 bolts evenly spaced around the center section. (I cut a large hole in a 6x6 block of wood to allow the axle to slip thru it and hold the housings off the floor while doing the following) I then insert the assembled axles through the left side and using 3 feeler gauges check the gap and install that number of gaskets evenly on both sides. You can then reach into the rear end through the pinion hole and feel the preload to see if it's where you want it.

    Oil Pump Block Plug

    Pages 1-225 ~ 1-229 ( in the NOTE areas)
    Error: The plug is a 3/8 Pipe Thread

    Correction: The plug is a 1/8th Pipe Thread

    Blue Book (trouble shooting & diagnostics) Errors & Corrections:


    page 4-62 2nd paragraph in right-hand column, second sentence
    error:: "In the rear wheel brakes, ....

    correction:: Should be front

    Green Book Vol- II Errors and corrections:

    page 3-11 step #27---- See this thread

    Step 27 is wrong. The windlace is not tacked to the bottom edge of the side roof rails (aka "Door Header")

    Windlace A-80362 (black) and A-73468 (brown) were notched to fit around the five wood screws of the windlace-retainer-strip (aka "windlace wood strip"). The retainer was installed loose. The windlace tail was slid in between the retainers and AA-83931/32 side roof rails. The retainers were then tightened.

    There was no "metal header cover plate" for an 82-A. The 82-B had a metal windlace retainer held in place with six oval head wood screws.

    FYI - page heading should be for the 82-A closed cab since a "1928/1929 Pickup" could have an 82-A closed cab or 76-A open cab.
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________________
    3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
    Henry Ford said,
    "It's all nuts and bolts"
    "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

  • #2
    I think I found an error. Red Book, p. 1-257, Removing Shocks, step 6.
    "Remove the two castle nuts and cotter pins from the back of the frame for the shock mounting bolts."
    I can't find any evidence that these are supposed to be castle nuts instead of regular nuts, or that the bolts should be drilled for cotter pins. The JS refer to them as standard nuts and the mounting bolts supplied by the vendors are not drilled. The bolts for the shock arms use castle nuts.


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Colin, good catch. Added

  • #3
    I am tired of complaining about the previous owner, but we pulled the oil pan yesterday and the oil pump wouldn't come down. Of course, there was a bolt where the plug should have been and after removing it and tapping on the pump, it dropped out. I have what appears to be the correct tap to clean out the mashed threads in the hole. Specifically, it says ⅛-27 N.P.T H.S. - GP.

    The Red Book calls for ⅜-27-PTF, but all the other references I could find say 1/8


    • Marco Tahtaras
      Marco Tahtaras commented
      Editing a comment
      Here we go again!

      Yes, it's 1/8" and the correct tap. Keep the depth minimal and keep checking the fit of the plug.

    • Soapy
      Soapy commented
      Editing a comment
      It's 1-229 in the Note area.

  • #4
    More corrections have been added in the last couple of days. Update your manual
    3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
    Henry Ford said,
    "It's all nuts and bolts"
    "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

    Mitch's Auto Service ctr


    • #5
      Is it also the threaded hole mentioned in the note on page 1-225?


      • Mitch
        Mitch commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks Steve

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