THIS LIST IS PROPERTY OF THE VINTAGE FORD FORUM
REPRODUCTION, WITHOUT PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED
REPRODUCTION, WITHOUT PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED
We have compiled a list of published errors that are in the Les Andrews texts. If you own or reference any of these books it would be prudent to make the appropriate corrections on the pages listed. For anyone that finds additional errors or the same errors listed here on other pages feel free to post your findings on this thread.
Our corrections are approx values and remember the Model A was built without using Torque wrenches. Most of the things we have listed here can be done by using common sense and feel.
This is a link to the original thread for this project where the correct procedures were discussed.
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...-andrews-books
You may also refer to our Specifications page link where these corrections are also revised.
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...-w-corrections
Red Book Volume 1 errors & corrections:
Engine Oil Pan Bolts Torque
page 1-146 & 1-226
error:: 20 ft. lbs
correction:: approx 8 ft. lbs ( read the above threads for more info)
Manifold to Engine Block Nuts Torque
page 1-134 table 1-5
error 45 ft. lbs
correction:: approx 25 ft. lbs
Valve Chamber Bolts Torque (valve cover)
page 1-134 table #1-5
error:: 20 ft. lbs
correction:: approx 8 ft. lbs ( should be treated the same as the oil pan)
Cam Shaft Nut Torque
page 1-134 table #1-5
error:: 100 ft lbs
correction:: approx 50 ft lbs
Timing (setting the rotor position)
page 2-18 #10
error:: The book states to set the rotor position opposite #1 contact.
correction:: Let's mention the timing section when the book says the rotor should point opposite the number one contact it means facing it. >1 the Arrow is opposite the number 1 not this way <1. If you time the engine with the rotor opposite number 1 (<1) your timing will be 180 degrees off.
note The picture does show the rotor in the correct position.
Rear Axle Nut Torque
error:: The specifications card page #1 calls for 100 ft lbs. Page 1-100 calls out 125 ft lbs.
correction:: Torque the axle nuts to no more than 75 ft lbs
Brake Rods
page 1-45
error:: The book states to adjust all 4 brake rods to 51-7/16" to 51-1/2" in length from eye to eye centers.
correction:: Service Bulletins page 202 says to adjust the brake rods by setting all the cross shaft and pedal adjustments first. then adjust the rods by removing the slack from each actuating lever until the clevis holes line up.
Emergency Brake Springs
page 1-43
error:: Diagram in the red book shows only one emergency brake band spring
correction:: There are actually two springs
Spindle Locking Pin Nut
page 1-34 #1 AND page 1-35 #9 and page 1-211 #1 & #2
error:: The book states the wrench/ socket size is 9/16th
correction:: The correct wrench size / socket to remove the spindle locking pin nut is 11/16th
Brake Actuating Arm Nut
page 1-35 #2 and page 1-211
error:: The book states the wrench/ socket size is 9/16th
correction:: The correct wrench size / socket to remove the brake actuating arm nut is 11/16th
Hood Holdown Bracket
page 1-117, step 24
error:: The drawing showing the location of the hood hold down bracket is only accurate for 28/29 models
correction:: For 30/31 models, the nuts securing the hood screws are (awkwardly) located between the firewall and the gas tank. They are captured nuts in a metal cage
THIS LIST IS PROPERTY OF THE VINTAGE FORD FORUM
REPRODUCTION, WITHOUT PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED
Rear Motor Mount Rubber Pads
page 1-221
error::Trimming the motor mount rubber.
correction:: It is no longer needed.
Rear backing plate nuts
page 1-40, para 3.
error: The 4 castle nuts inside the grease baffle requires a 9/16 socket
correction: It requires a 5/8 socket, not 9/16.
Capacities
page 1 Specification's Card
error:: Transmission 1-1/2 pints
correction:: Transmissionn 1 pint (service bulletins pg 375)
error:: Differential 2-1/4 pints
correction:: Differential 1-1/2 pints (service bulletins pg 375)
King Pins / Locking Pins
page 1-209
error:: The book does not mention about there being a Right and a Left KIng Pin when doing the services
correction:: Take note that there is a R & L king pin
Front Spindle Nut
Page 1-361 Wheel Bearings Castle Nut
Error: Lists the spindle nut size as 7/8-14 and the wrench size needed as 1-1/4"
Correction: The spindle nut is 3/4-16 and the wrench size should be 1-1/8"
Leaf Spring
Page 1-278 Section 2
Error: Recommends to use a lock washer on the leaf spring center (tie) bolt
Correction: A lock washer can break causing the spring pack to loosen
Stewart Warner Horn
Page 1-195 step #6
Error: Remove the ratchet nut
Correction: The ratchet nut has a left handed thread
Front spring Perch Nut
Page 1-7 step #22
Error: Use a 3/4" socket on the perch nut
Correction: It takes a 15/16" socket
Throw Out Bearing
Page 1-341 Paragraph 17
Error: No mention of the throw out bearing being a pressed fit
Correction: Throw-out bearing should be a press fit. Press fit can be done in a bench-top vise using the old throw-out bearing on the face of the new throw-out bearing. Widest O.D. of throw-out bearing should face engine
Shock Adjustments
Page 2-13 #2 and #4
Error: The cold and warm settings for the front shocks are reversed.
Correction: Front cold should be 5/8 - 3/4 and the front warm should read 3/8th
Shock to Frame Mounting Hardware
Page 257 ~ Step #6
Error: Remove the two castle nuts and cotter pins from the back of the frame for the shock mounting bolts.
Correction: The shock is mounted using standard style nuts and lock washers
Drag Link Orientation
Page 1-110 & 1-111
Error: Not all Drag LInks are installed in this direction
Correction: BOP to Oct 1928 the drag link was installed in the opposite direction. (see service bulletin page 290. fig 592
Differential carrier bearing preload
Page 1-93
Error: Bolt on both axle housings without gaskets. This can distort the mating surfaces, which can cause leaks and an improper measurement.
Correction: BY Jim Brierley I set the housings vertically with the right side bolted tight with 4 bolts evenly spaced around the center section. (I cut a large hole in a 6x6 block of wood to allow the axle to slip thru it and hold the housings off the floor while doing the following) I then insert the assembled axles through the left side and using 3 feeler gauges check the gap and install that number of gaskets evenly on both sides. You can then reach into the rear end through the pinion hole and feel the preload to see if it's where you want it.
Oil Pump Block Plug
Pages 1-225 ~ 1-229 ( in the NOTE areas)
Error: The plug is a 3/8 Pipe Thread
Correction: The plug is a 1/8th Pipe Thread
Blue Book (trouble shooting & diagnostics) Errors & Corrections:
Brakes
page 4-62 2nd paragraph in right-hand column, second sentence
error:: "In the rear wheel brakes, ....
correction:: Should be front
Green Book Vol- II Errors and corrections:
page 3-11 step #27---- See this thread
Step 27 is wrong. The windlace is not tacked to the bottom edge of the side roof rails (aka "Door Header")
Windlace A-80362 (black) and A-73468 (brown) were notched to fit around the five wood screws of the windlace-retainer-strip (aka "windlace wood strip"). The retainer was installed loose. The windlace tail was slid in between the retainers and AA-83931/32 side roof rails. The retainers were then tightened.
There was no "metal header cover plate" for an 82-A. The 82-B had a metal windlace retainer held in place with six oval head wood screws.
FYI - page heading should be for the 82-A closed cab since a "1928/1929 Pickup" could have an 82-A closed cab or 76-A open cab.
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