It's good info to teach them that it's the insulator configuration that determines the HEAT RANGE.
I've found that most any Spark Plug, with the RIGHT Heat Range, will run GOOD in a Model A.
Dad BrandX
Grover, the more the engine burns oil the hotter the plug should be ? Elevation ? What are the reasons for using a cold plug, as compared to a hot one ? Great display, Pat
you are looking for a nice even medium tan color on the insulator. Then you have the right heat range.
The perimeter of the plug shell will always be black, don't look there. Whether the engine burns oil, runs lean, is at high elevation, what CR head, etc etc factor in, but often these things can't be changed. But the plug heat range can be changed.
If the insulator is white, that is too hot. If dark tan to grey to black, it is too cold
Thank you for your time "BIG Bird" and all valued VFF employees !! You guys get your weekly check yet ? Laughing and rolling on the ground, with shit piles everywhere. Pat
So if my 3X insulators are white I should change to a C4? I sure hate to give up my 3X's. Maybe I need to get more than 750 miles on them...
Burns no oil, B carburetor, elevation 200 ft, 6:1 head, big intake valves, B340 touring Stipe cam, 120 lbs. compression...
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They sure are white. Could be lean, too, try opening the GAV a tad and run it around a bit before you look again.
Supposedly you have to run the car at highway speed then pull over and shut it off and pull a plug and look, but we have never needed to do that, we just drive back to the shop and recheck in the normal way. But put 50 miles on it before you re-check.
There isn't much else you can change; plugs and GAV
Another thought, get a powerful mag. glass and examine the insulators carefully. Look for any tiny silvery specs. If you find them, that is microscopic aluminum from the pistons, and the plugs are being 'blasted' from too much advance
In see no carbon on the perimeter of the plugs, unless you cleaned it off for the pic, which also makes me wonder if they are lean
I have always seen 3 X'ers run good in the A engine. I would investigate further
Timing over advanced
Lean mixture
Coolant getting into the mix
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible." Mitch's Auto Service ctr
Those plugs came out from left to right in the picture 4 3 2 1. notice how white and clean #2 is. I usually run the GAV about a 1/4 turn open. I'll crack it open a little more and see what happens. I'm going to try a set of flow tested jets from Dave Renner soon. Pretty much happy with the performance with a B carburetor. When you step down on it has good power and has that secondary opening sound to it. Not loosing coolant or running hot. Only run about a notch advanced maybe 2 when on a level road.
Stock distributor and I retard it a notch if pulling a hill before I get to that hill because I know what it might do if I don't. I'm sitting back and reading about zippers etc. and staying away from them because of the problems with too much advance, or the curve isn't right. Aren't most of them setup for a stock cylinder head? I learned a long time ago DON'T ADVANCE IT TOO MUCH. So I use the spark lever and pay attention to where it is and how I'm driving. I don't pull it down and forget about it. I almost constantly have my finger feeling between the lever and the upper stop and make sure I'm not advanced when I see an incline coming up. Same situation when shifting into 3rd gear because you have soo much rpm drop.
Do you have a high compression head? I know what happens if I pull it down too far. I was going to check total advance but the snap-on timing light gave out on me. And now the engine is on a stand upside down. I'll check it and set it so it can't be advanced too far.
Don't overthink it
I pull my down about 1/2 to a little less than half and leave it for the most part
I agree.
With my all stock engine I pull the spark half way down as soon as the engine starts, and leave it there for much of my low speed stop and go city driving.
Out on the road I'll pull it down to about 28* advance, or about 2/3 down.
Higher compression takes less advance, but only one or two notches sounds like too little advance.
On the level road pull the advance down until you feel no increase in power or speed, then if you give it some gas and it pings, retard it just a little.
Ok, I took one of my other B carbs and cleaned it up. Throttle shaft feels much better and I swapped the jets from the B carb I was running, they are numbered for a Model B according to Vince Ford Garage site. I should get my flowed jets next week from Dave Renner. I also used the correct venturi for a B. I can now get it to idle down to less than 550 rpm, opened up the GAV, and am now getting tan on the insulators. Spark lever now works as it should. Have not pulled it all the way down and am now at a stopping point until I get the front pulley marked for degrees advance. I want to make sure I'm not over advancing it with the higher compression or at least be able to see where that is. How accurate are the Nu-rex timing indicators? I was thinking about using a degree wheel to find my degrees advanced. The cheap timing light doesn't work except for tdc.
Model A Basics is a website designed to help the Model A owner. The goal is to eliminate the fear of mechanical failure while driving. The car is very dependable and with simply mechanical abilities the owner can enjoy many years of Model A driving. Model A carburetor, Model A Zenith, Model A timing, Model A distributer, Model A research, Model A Parts, Model A Ford, 1928 Model A, 1929 Model A, 1930 Model A, 1931 Model A, 1928 ford Model A, 1929 ford Model A, 1930 ford Model A, 1931 ford Model A, Model A for Sale, Model A Ford for Sale, Model a Newbie.
Click here for a printable .pdf of the above drawing.
All had a "3" with a rounded top. The lettering on the porcelain varied from thick to thin and from light orange to dark red
The original plug gasket was a copper wrapped asbestos washer. The copper was rolled over the edge and the asbestos was not visible.
Notes for creating web page.
Interesting Facts
All materials conduct electricity, some just oppose it better than others; hence an insulator.
The Albert Champion Company introduced the “X” spark plug in 1909
“The Champion “X” insulator is what is known as the petticoat type. This insulator is generally conceded to be less liable to foul than insulators of other types, due to the fact that the surface over which the current must travel is greater. Furthermore, these insulators are able to resist fouling, as they are made of material which will not absorb oil: the glaze on the surface is smooth and hard so as to keep the oil from adhering to it.”
Ford Service Bulletin No. 11 Monday, September 1, 1919 Page 81
“Insulators must be strong electrically. Every porcelain insulator is called a di-electric. The material is an insulator at certain temperature, while at others, it becomes a conductor.”
Ford Service Bulletin No. 11 Monday, September 1, 1919 Page 81
If the porcelain is fouled, it should be cleaned with a cloth dipped in gasoline.
Ford Service Bulletin No. 11 Monday, September 1, 1919 Page 81
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible." Mitch's Auto Service ctr
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible." Mitch's Auto Service ctr
Digging through this post and there is an entry that the Champion C-4 plug was not recommend for the Model A, however almost all of the engines I recently tore apart had C-4 plugs in them. Were they used in an application where the engine would be running at a constant speed?
If someone tells you “That can’t be done”. It’s time to get started!
Digging through this post and there is an entry that the Champion C-4 plug was not recommend for the Model A, however almost all of the engines I recently tore apart had C-4 plugs in them. Were they used in an application where the engine would be running at a constant speed?
The C-4 was recommended for the new 1932 V-8. The Model B 4cyl continued to use the 3X. I don't have that SB in front of me but it does explain things better. As time past the C-4 was pushed more for use in the A, by suppliers but it is a cold running plug. Maybe because of the cost factor??
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible." Mitch's Auto Service ctr
I just discovered that all 3x porcelains are NOT created equal. The example on the right just came out of a 28-29 base. As you can see, it is cracked from stem to stern. The porcelain to the left is a spare I've had for years and I thought I would replace the cracked one and end up with a working original 3X sparkplug. Wrong! The good porcelain on the left would not fit into the original 28-9 base that the porcelain to the right came out of. If you compare the tapered bases of the two porcelains, you can see that the good porcelain on the left has a fatter taper on the electrode end than the cracked one on the right. That's why it won't fit the 28-9 base. I don't know if the good one on the left came out of a 28-9 base or a 30-31 base. Are the early 3X plugs different internally than the later ones from 30-1? Has anyone run into this before? Thanks.
Thanks Carl. So the early and late 3X components don't interchange. That means that my spare porcelains are 30-31 only. JDupius, if you shoot me an email, I can send you back the photos. [email protected]
This table was printed in the Aug. 1932 service bulletins. Notice the correlation of recommended plug gap to compression test results. Good baseline for those running HC heads.
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I stumbled onto this old thread and it got me wondering how my Champion W18 plugs were doing. So I pulled them out and the insulators are white, not tan. So they seem to be too hot. The motor has a 6.1 head, Marvel carb with GAV set about 1/3 open. It runs just fine, but now I'm thinking I should spring for a set of 3X plugs. What do you guys think?
It would be interesting to see how these perform in a Model A. All you need is the spark plug adaptors to use these. In 1964 I bought a set of 6 for my 54 Chevy, and just as described, the car went from 0 showing on the speedometer with the tranny in first and engine at idle, to about 5 MPH after I installed the fire injectors.
I've been looking for these for years, and this is the first...
this is the engine of my Ford A and I would like to change the spark plugs
I could recommend some, I like the 3x style but I do not know if they are the best
Thank
what spark plug wires are you guys running with a miller head? I was told by someone else to get some for a ‘70’s maverick. And they are about 6 inches too long. I asked the guys at napa to try to find some around 19.5 inches long and they just looked at me like I was crazy. So other than buying the ones that I cut to my own length, is there a specific car that anyone knows that I could tell the...
Back in the 70's I saw temp gauges for snowmobiles, that used a ring that fit under the spark plug. I thought that was a great idea, and easy to install without any holes to drill or any other modifications. Last year my neighbor installed a similar one on his 1950 Morris Minor. I've never seen such a gauge with a ring probe large enough to fit the Model A spark plug, but I wonder how well it would...
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