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  • Horn Info, Horn rod

    FF0B82B8-BA5F-4098-9580-BD101A18C256.jpeg
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

  • #2
    Here's a picture of the round felt pad that fits around the adjustment screw. These felt pads are often missing. I was at Menards the other day to buy some felt door weather stripping, and it would work great to cut a round horn felt. It's 5/8" wide by 3/16" thick, and 17 feet long, and only costs $2 for the roll. It's a medium grey color but could be dyed black by using a felt tip marker.

    As long as we're talking horns, here is another picture showing the correct way to install the wire terminals under the clips.
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 2 photos.

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      I had this picture saved in my computer showing the proper way to install the connectors. I think it might have originally came from Mike K..




      HornConnectors.jpg
      Attached Files

    • Fixitphil
      Fixitphil commented
      Editing a comment
      My winding's do not look anywhere near that good.

    • Fixitphil
      Fixitphil commented
      Editing a comment
      I don't have those two small pieces of felt either.
      Phil

  • #3
    I should have also posted a picture of the horn cover screw, because the correct screw only has enough threads to hold the cover in place.
    Repro screws have threads the whole length, and I've seen a couple times where someone ran the screw down into the brush holder.

    Comment


  • #4
    Ya know, I have had my wires installed wrong for the last year and the horn has worked flawlessly including using it almost constantly last Saturday on the Horseless Carriage Excursion which took me in and around the Rose Parade route in Pasadena. All those folk waving and thumbs up at the string of Model A's traveling together was breathtaking. I have already started making plans to dress up the car for next years excursion, wouldn't want to miss it.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

    Comment


    • #5
      Horn Basics

      A special thanks to Paul Modlin

      http://modelabasics.com/


      Get the "ga" in "Ahoo-ga"; Techniques to improve the sound of the Model A horn

      Horn Ringtone wav

      Horn ringtone mp3



      09C9F735-8CAC-4046-8459-9E803141DA15.jpegDDCAC532-204A-4A49-A5FD-A67C74A9A4A6.jpeg17A1A18C-B867-4A52-A8B2-F73266B38840.jpeg
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • #6
        Checking a Horn Armature

        Slip a piece of paper under each brush, so the brush doesn't make contact with the armature commutator. Now use an ohm meter or continuity tester to see if you have a connection between the commutator and armature shaft. It needs to be open. If this checks OK, then with the paper still in place check each horn contact terminal to the motor frame to make sure they are also open (no contact). There should be an insulating washer on each side of the frame where the screw goes through to hold the brush.

        Comment


        • #7
          I use ATF to lube the horn up, but other types will do the trick.
          3 ~ Tudor's
          Henry Ford said
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

          Comment


          • #8
            Nice thread....i have a dumb question on the wiring.....so they blue/yelow wire is part of the front harness i believe??? is the solid yellow wire that goes to the cutout part of the harness as well or a seperate piece made up???

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              It's part of the light harness. The other yellow / black wire to the cut out goes to the terminal box. That is a different harness

            • Chevmn56
              Chevmn56 commented
              Editing a comment
              On the wiring diagram it shows 3 wires going to the cutout.....the yellow/black goes between terminal box and the cutout, another yellow from the harness and another yellow wire between the cutout and the horn, this is the wire i was asking about, i dont think this is sold anywhere is it????
              Last edited by Chevmn56; 05-02-2018, 09:27 AM.

            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Gotchya
              It’s all apart of the light harness. There are two spades that go onto the cutout. One of the spades have 2 yellow wires going into it...The diagram does throw you off in that regard

          • #9
            AHHH thanks for humoring a newbie again Mitch, makes sense now!!!!!
            Thanks

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              You actually had me thinking lol.. the diagram can throw ya off on that

          • #10
            The brush holder is mounted by one screw with an insulating washer on each side of the motor frame. If all 4 insulating washers aren't in place for the 2 brush mounting screws, then the brush holder will short to the motor frame. The motor will still spin, but with less power, as one field is taken out of the circuit.

            Measure voltage from a good ground to each horn terminal as you blow the horn. One terminal should show battery voltage, and the one going to the horn button should show 0 volts. If it shows 1 or 2 volts, then the horn button isn't making a good ground, or the wire has several broken strands, or too much grease on the light switch horn contact. You can use a jumper wire to ground that horn terminal to a head nut to check this out.

            Comment


            • #11
              Here is some horn info that was saved on my computer!!



              Identify Model A Ford Horn Motors
              There were 5 kinds of Model A Horns for 1928-1931. Most of the time they can be identified by the brand stamped into the motor base, horn cover, or horn bell. My several horns had mixed up or wrong covers and horn bells as well. They can also be identified by the motor frame width and the armature shaft diameter. These are only the most common types. Several of the brands have some variations I don't show.

              GMI
              1" frame and 5/16" shaft.
              The brush holder is unlike any other brand

              C604BCBC-1AFE-40EA-8343-B55680C397C2.jpeg
              Stewart Warner
              11/8" frame and 1/4" shaft
              Caution: the nut on the end of the armature is a left handed thread

              7CE80ED5-E40C-4C76-927E-58C65BDB2662.jpeg

              Sparton
              3/4" frame and 1/4" shaft

              534FBFD9-C271-4271-9635-CD1710AD142D.jpeg

              EA
              3/4" frame and 1/4" shaft

              B251C38E-0871-4405-9601-51B91D868432.jpeg

              Ames
              11/8" frame and 5/16" shaft

              E4825A80-E02F-4D41-BAA7-991D04EC82AA.jpeg




              32 Ford
              Bullet shaped cover


              32 Ford
              Note the different hole pattern in the 32 on the left. The 32 Horn sits on a bracket on the fender unlike the Model A which hangs from the headlight bar. If a 32 horn is installed on a Model A, the drain hole for the motor will be on the top rather than the bottom.




              Some more differences:

              Horn bases
              From left to right, EA, Sparton, Ames, Stewart Warner and GMI. The GMI is the only one with an oilite bearing on the bottom:



              Sounding springs
              The one on the left is for Sparton and the other is for Stewart Warner:

              Terminal blocks
              The one on the left is for EA and the other is Sparton. Sparton goes into the insulator with legs and the EA with a single fold.

              Comment


              • #12
                REPO Horn Rod

                When installing a horn rod on a 30/31, i usually have to sand about an inch of the stem with 80 grit where the upper bushing rides. This needs to spin freely otherwise the lights will go on when turning the steering wheel. I also had to sand down the squared bottom end so it would fit into the light switch easily.
                3 ~ Tudor's
                Henry Ford said
                "It's all nuts and bolts"


                Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                Comment


                • #13
                  Methods to replace the horn screen!

                  Original Thread


                  Please jump in with your methods of replacing the horn screen.

                  I thought I would share mine it works well but I'm sure there's better or just as good methods out there.

                  To remove:
                  I use the back of a hammer and a handball to remove the screen. Stand the hammer up, heavy side down, put the handball inside the bevel of the horn pressed against the screen, place over the hammer handle and push down. The screen pops out and maintains its shape.

                  To reinsert:
                  1. Place masking tape on both sides of the horn perpendicular to the horns seem.

                  2. Insert the screen horizontally. Squeeze the screen and push it down until the top of the screen lines up with the groove in the bevel.

                  3. Use the back of your biggest roundest handle of a screwdriver to rotate the screen from the inside of the horn. Once again make sure the top of the screen is lined up with the groove in the horn.

                  4. The seam of the horn acts as a ramp. When you push with the screwdriver, the back of the horn screen should slide along the seam. Push until it snaps in.
                  ​​
                  You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                  This gallery has 4 photos.

                  Comment


                  • #14
                    Pictures of removing screen, mocked up for my next project
                    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                    This gallery has 2 photos.

                    Comment


                    • #15
                      BAD8211A-9056-43CC-B0EC-17FD5F12990A.jpeg
                      3 ~ Tudor's
                      Henry Ford said
                      "It's all nuts and bolts"


                      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                      Comment


                      • #16

                        Scan0167.jpg
                        Scan0168.jpgScan0169.jpgScan0170.jpgScan0171.jpgScan0172.jpgScan0173.jpgScan0174.jpg
                        3 ~ Tudor's
                        Henry Ford said
                        "It's all nuts and bolts"


                        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                        Comment


                        • #17
                          I finally got round to some wire mod's for the horn. For ease of horn removal, I've done like many suggest to break the wires inside the radiator shell area after the conduit passes thru the grommet and install bullet connectors. This way the horn, conduit and 2 wires can come out as a unit. Also, the wires going in to the horn wire clips have 90 deg ends so the wires can gather easier before entering the conduit.

                          Comment


                          • #18
                            Scan0292.jpgScan0293.jpg
                            3 ~ Tudor's
                            Henry Ford said
                            "It's all nuts and bolts"


                            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                            Comment


                            • #19
                              Another Horn related thread.
                              https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...he-aoooga-work
                              3 ~ Tudor's
                              Henry Ford said
                              "It's all nuts and bolts"


                              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                              Comment


                              • #20
                                B692FC78-2A51-4FEB-B583-68DB9593C690.jpeg

                                The article was cut off in the newsletter !!!!!!
                                3 ~ Tudor's
                                Henry Ford said
                                "It's all nuts and bolts"


                                Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                                Comment


                                • #21
                                  http://www.markhaywardismyhero.com/2...-model-a-ford/



                                  030A65E7-FF5C-404D-8732-ABDC0098CC06.jpeg C008FE38-2506-4EC2-9A2B-D68A4D1A0652.jpeg 4FF64067-458C-463E-A658-4C83CA87F1F0.jpeg
                                  3 ~ Tudor's
                                  Henry Ford said
                                  "It's all nuts and bolts"


                                  Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                                  Comment


                                  • #22
                                    v10i1p05.jpg
                                    3 ~ Tudor's
                                    Henry Ford said
                                    "It's all nuts and bolts"


                                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                                    Comment

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                                      Here's a picture of the round felt pad that fits around the adjustment screw. These felt pads are often missing. I was at Menards the other day to buy some felt door weather stripping, and it would work great to cut a round horn felt. It's 5/8" wide by 3/16" thick, and 17 feet long, and only costs $2 for the roll. It's a medium grey color but could be dyed black by using a felt tip marker....
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