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6V to 12V conversion info

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  • 6V to 12V conversion info

    http://cedarcreekas.org/TechTopics/1...rn_Signals.pdf
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

  • #2
    Those are very good drawings for comparison and reference. But there is one thing I would like to see that's not on there on the 12 volt diagram, which color wires on the coil terminals. It's simple on the 6 volt because there is no plus or negative symbol and if it's an original coil it can only be mounted one way. Or maybe not...

    Comment


    • #3
      Dennis, would it help if I said the Red wire is Negative and the Black the Positive in the 12v Negative chassis wiring? You can figure that the wire that comes from the ignition switch is the Negative to the points. For the points to work, the wire from the actual points needs to be grounded, so off the Negative post of the 12v coil.

      The stock 6v Positive chassis is set so when you open the ignition switch, you remove the chassis potential from the coil to the points. In the 12v- system you are doing the same thing. it's the chassis wire from the coil.

      I do hope that makes sense to you, and if you want to change, just ask, I will come down there and help you with the change.

      J.C.
      Last edited by DaWizard; 09-09-2017, 10:24 AM. Reason: cuz I cain't spel
      You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

      Comment


      • Dennis
        Dennis commented
        Editing a comment
        No I know how it's supposed to be, I'm plenty familiar with 12v neg ground, mine has already been done, don't need any help.
        It would be nice for less experienced people as I've seen postings in the past when people have asked.
        Last edited by Dennis; 09-09-2017, 04:35 AM.

    • #4
      Here is the 12v coil hook up!

      Black wire to the positive side of the coil.
      Red wire to the negative side of the coil.




      IMG_7337.PNG
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • Dennis
        Dennis commented
        Editing a comment

      • Mitch
        Mitch commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks Dennis for the idea!!!

    • #5
      Too much work, I'll keep it 6 volts.

      Comment


      • #6
        Very good as I'm in the midst of my 12v conversion. Thanks. Phil

        Comment


        • #7
          That is the reason I treasure this site. beautiful illustrations. great job.

          Comment


          • #8
            Hi Mitch. I just got my Nurex fake pop out switch with the accessory terminal. Having read, and re-read the info above - I still have two questions.
            1. I've owned Fords in the past - the key is usually inserted upside down. I've installed the Nurex switch - which is very nice with the three set screws - into the dash panel so the Key will be inserted "Teeth up"
            2. The Negative side of the 12v Coil (red wire) goes up to the ignition switch. Does it go to the "common" terminal, so it will provide 12v when the switch is turned right, and 12v for accessory when the switch is turned Left?

            It seems wrong for the accessory feed to draw current from the coil - but I don't see an alternative. Thanks again for your help.
            Hope to finish up wiring this afternoon.

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Brace
              There are different ways to wire up a 12v neg system. Power feed to the ign or like the stock design. How we're you setting it up?

          • #9
            Well, I went 12v so I could add a radio, or a car charger for my phone, or whatever. My first car was a 1950 Hudson with a 6v Positive ground - didn't start well, and when I bought my 8-track player (no snickering)....
            I had to put a 12v battery in the trunk and charge it all the time. It kept rolling around the trunk, and eventually the acid ate a hole in the fender.

            So - have wired plenty of cars - but I have all the original wiring from the 6v system (everything new) - so I want to keep that. I have a 30amp amp gage. Purchased a "stock" 19" battery cable from Snyders - will probably
            put it on the negative of the 12v battery, and ground to engine. Then run another lead from there to the frame.

            What do you think?

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              So It sounds like you're wiring it stock. If you want to use the ACCY terminal it may be better to run it so the hot feeds the + side of the coil through the switch. Then run the red wire neg to the armored cable.

              If you keep it configured stock then the red wire will go to the ign and the armored cable to another ign term. I don't believe this will be a good way to power an accy.

              Regarding the switch make sure you have it adjusted all the way forward away from the tank. Also insulate the terminals to prevent the terminals from grounding on the gas tank.
              I had them adjusted away and they still hit sometimes

          • #10
            I'll run the switch collar all the way down.
            So if I follow you from above, I run a jumper wire from the Right Terminal (Yellow/Black) up to the common terminal on the switch. I have another spare yellow/black wire I could use. Then I could
            re-use the Red wire from the switched side of the ignition down through the terminal box, and on to the coil - to the Positive + side. Then I connect the Armored cable from the distributor to the negative side
            of the coil. (I do have the short armored cable) Now... should I pick up my 12v for the switch before it goes through the amp gage, or after. (yellow/black or yellow). I see they show the Instrument light powered off the minus side of the amp gage on the drawing above.

            I checked Nurex's site to see if they had any diagrams for the accessory switch - but no luck.

            Thanks again Mitch.

            Comment


            • #11
              One option

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              3 ~ Tudor's
              Henry Ford said
              "It's all nuts and bolts"


              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

              Comment

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