Rear spring removal

[Fomoco998]

Pulled the rear from the car and removed all the brakes. Got it on saw horses and have what is called a traveling spring spreader looking for any extra precautions in removing spring with a spreader of this type . Thanks

[WMWS]

I have never used that type of spreader but I have heard people say they are dangerous. Actually you should have had the spreader on before you removed the spring and rear from the car. Now the only thing holding it together is that flimsy 90 year old bolt. Get some C clamps and heavy chain around it before you do anything. At least that will slow the missile down.

[Ayyy]

I also heard the traveling spring spreader is dangerous. I bought the full length spring spreader.

[2manycars]

This is what I have, and strongly reccomend.

https://www.brattons.com/rear-spring-spreader.html

[Terry, NJ]

This is what I use, Yes I know it's not to be trusted cause it's "homemade" but it's worked fine for me every time I've used it. Measure the spring pack and figure on 1/2 to 3/4" longer. Go to TSC for a grade 8 , 3/8" bolt in that length and nut and washer. Grind two opposing points off the head so it'll fit in the square hole in the frame. While your C-clamps are still holding the spring pack together undue the old bolt and replace it. Don't forget to orient the square head to the hole in the frame. That keeps it from slipping side to side.

[A-doctor]

This is what I have, and strongly reccomend.

https://www.brattons.com/rear-spring-spreader.html

I'm with Bill
This is a quality proven tool.

[CarlG]

Mine did not come from Brattons, but it is every bit as safe. It has been used by several in our club, they all praise it's ease of use and safety.

[Fomoco998]

Got the spring off with no problems but can see that one has to respect those springs. Might have to build one from the pics like CarlG Thanks guys

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW: Never heard of a spring spreader (55) years ago

1. My simple invention (55) years ago of a spring removal and install tool.
2. Threw the first one away (55) years ago and made another one (12) years ago to remove front & rear springs on my 1930 Town Sedan:

A. Remove both front and rear springs with shackles and axles attached.
B. Install the clamp shown below, (one spring at a time), on each separate, completely assembled leaf spring.
C. On each separate spring, securely tighten both threaded rods with nuts indicated to hold leaves tightly in place..
D. The metal plate in the top notched 2 x 4 has a square hole to securely hold the square head, (without moving), on top of the center bolt in the spring while the bolt nut is being loosened.
E. This square hole also allows the square bolt head to be properly aligned, (during reassembly), into the front and rear cross member centered square holes.
F. For loosening and tightening the center spring bolt nut, a hole is provided in the bottom notched 2 x 4 to fit a socket wrench on the nut provided on the center spring bolt.
G. The notch cut into both top & bottom 2 x 4's is same width as the width of the spring leaves.
H. After the spring is securely clamped, loosen the center bolt nut and remove it.
I. Carefully, equally loosen the threaded rod nuts until all of the top leaves are separated and can be easily removed.
J. Remove the single, bottom leaf attached to the shackles last.
K. After grinding and easing the square edges on all of the spring leaves, paint spring leaves, apply graphite mixed with grease, and reassemble the spring in reverse order and lastly, securely tighten the center spring nut.
I. (For improved safety's sake, the next one I make for my 1930 Coupe, will be made with two (2) pieces of channel iron just in case the wood would ever split and/or break.)

[2manycars]

That is a nice tool to assemble a spring, but he was asking about removing it from the car.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Same tool could be used to remove springs from car without removing axles.

Front and/or rear cross rails would just have to be lifted higher.

Less lift required if large tires/wheels removed.

[Ed H]

If I may ask why can't a proto power be used with a double push piston? I am sure there is a logical reason for not using it as no one has said anything about it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

No straight line tool will fit. It needs to clear the center housing.

[WMWS]

I'm not seeing how you get that tool on the spring with the spring still contained by the u bolts. If you have lowered the spring then you are still relying on that 90 year old rusty bolt. Am I missing something?

[Mitch]

A nice tool for compressing and holding the spring pack, but I am missing it also. I'm sure H.L. will expand on this

[H. L. Chauvin]

Per #11 and 11.1:

A. Prior to rear spring removal, it is never a bad idea to first think about Life Safety and buy a "new", rear spring center bolt, in advance, from a reputable Model A parts supply place.

B. With rear "U" bolts still in place, I removed my Town Sedan's rear seat, sheet metal pan below, and removed the old rear spring center bolt and provided a new center bolt prior to loosing and removing rear spring "U" bolt nuts.

C. Caution: On the last Model A rear spring assembly, one never knows who may have possibly over-stressed this center bolt, (maybe more times than once), with God only knows how many excess foot-pounds of torque.

D. Even with a new spring center bolt, when this spring is in a shop and not yet installed, never a bad idea to add and secure the top center of the leaves with a securely fastened wrap-around chain.

[WMWS]

Safety first no matter how you do it.

[Mitch]

What I meant was you won't be removing the bottom leaf from the shackle with that tool