This has worked well for me. I've done a few for customers. Round the bottoms of the ends of each spring leaf. Grind the edge of any worn pockets on the tops of each spring leaf. Sandblast and powdercoat the springs, then coat them with Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease, sprinkle on graphite, and wrap them with spring covers. I can't imagine they will ever see a speck of rust in my lifetime, and they have an excellent smooth ride. Also shown is an antique tool used to insert grease between spring leaves when the spring is installed on the car.
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Be aware that this works on original Ford springs and is not recommended for new modern replacement springs, Eaton etc..
JB -
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Tom, Look at the Eaton web page under 'frequent questions'.
I bought a new manufactured front spring from A & T Springs (most accurate reproduction) and it came with the manufacturer sticker & phone number. Their product, they should know,.... "modern steels, we do not recommend lubrication between leaves".
Second most important point, after 200 miles, re-torque the center bolt.Comment
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It's more obvious .. era replacements (into the 70's ?) each leaf was square cut. I suspect since the 80's replacement springs have the tri-cut leaves. As for quality, I compare to the blue print found in the Bratton's catalog .....of the three front springs I ordered only A & T Springs had the leaves stacked as per the blue print.Comment
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I bought a rear replacement from Steve at Bert's. I asked if it should be lubed or no lube and he said lube. So I did pretty much about the same thing as Tom I think except the powder coating. It's pretty dry where I live and I never drive the A in the rain. I used a flap disc on my small grinder to take the sharp edge off the end of each leaf sprayed 4 cans of graphite on each leaf except the top of the top and bottom of the bottom. Smeared the same grease Tom used and painted after assembled. The car sits level now and has a good ride. I put new shocks on at the same time.Comment
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No one answers the phone at A&T to ask questions..
After checking around, some car companies evidently like NyoGel 774VH-MS, silica thickened grease. TAI Lubricants is N. American distributor, at $120 / 17.6 oz tub !! Another spring vendor suggested teflon spray on new repro's unpainted leaves. Our late Ranger work truck has a very thin hardly noticeable black coating which comes off by rubbing hard so perhaps it's a graphite coating.Last edited by plyfor; 08-09-2018, 08:45 PM.Comment
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Most of the vendors sell spring covers. Is there any one that is preferred? Thinking of putting them on the Town Sedan.Comment
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I've read that some of the leaf springs are now made with new types steel that are not compatible with oil and grease. Older manuals say to lube , etc. Wonder if spray graphite falls in to this category which we currently use on a lot of classics. Going to install a new rear A spring and curious if others have heard this.08-06-2018, 10:09 AM -
What is the best way to restore the leaf springs?
Electrolisis...Sand blast...wire wheel...all the above ...none of the above...
Followed by painting each leaf or not?...or use graphite grease...
Assemble....
What have you done in your restoration to have a good looking front and rear spring?
Thanks.
Pluck01-19-2019, 01:20 AM -
I have a question on restoring an original front spring. The spring is a standard 10 leaf spring. I have sandblasted the individual leaves. The question is: Should I epoxy prime the individual leaves before assembling them. I plan to use John Deere Slip Plate between the leaves to provide a lubricant. Any helpful comments would be appreciated on whether the leaves should be painted or just assemble...06-21-2019, 02:31 PM -
There is a question over on the regular Model A forum about lubing springs. It is my understanding that the spring packs were painted after assembly. Therefore, any type of lubricant used on the springs at assembly may not be conducive to paint adhesion, or cause fish eyes in the finish. Does the fine point spring just not get treated with anything to aid in slippage?12-22-2021, 10:28 AM -
How & what product to remove rust and lubricant front springs on 31,Model A ?02-11-2021, 11:31 PM -
My reversed eye front spring went in easily. I can see that the rear needs to be spread. Of course a spring spreader won't work with it. I was going to use the K. R. Wilson spreader but I have been warned that it is a very dangerous tool. It was also suggested to dismantle the spring. Bolt in the main leaf by itself as it would be easy to spread by hand. Then reassemble the spring. What do you th...11-30-2020, 09:11 PM -
I’m almost ready to disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble front and rear springs on my latest Model A project.
I’ve read a number of posts on lubricating springs and would like opinions on use of teflon strips or poly slide between spring leaves.
I used teflon strips and grease on both springs 30+ years ago during restoration of my roadster, and the springs still work...07-03-2021, 09:30 AM -
This is a Tudor 1931 with a ten leaf front spring. In the last five years I have done a lot of work to get it in good shape. The attention has now turned to the springs and especially the front spring. I have a feeling that the spring is worn down, but I can't figure out if that is the case. The distance between the spring ends and the axle is about a quarter inch and the distance between the clip...10-16-2020, 08:52 PM -
Is there a way to tell how many leaves are in my spring while it is in my Truck?
Visibly I see only 6 leaves....You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.09-29-2020, 08:53 AM -
Marco Tahtaras did an excelent REAR Spring Chart showing just where the different individual springs went in a assembled REAR spring.
That being the case ...did he ever do one for the FRONT Spring Assembly?
I say this because I have several disassembled front springs and I do not know just where some of the leaves would go because they are of different lengths and thicknesses....01-20-2019, 05:08 PM
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