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Spring Lubrication, Mystik Grease, Graphite, and Covers

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  • Spring Lubrication, Mystik Grease, Graphite, and Covers

    This has worked well for me. I've done a few for customers. Round the bottoms of the ends of each spring leaf. Grind the edge of any worn pockets on the tops of each spring leaf. Sandblast and powdercoat the springs, then coat them with Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease, sprinkle on graphite, and wrap them with spring covers. I can't imagine they will ever see a speck of rust in my lifetime, and they have an excellent smooth ride. Also shown is an antique tool used to insert grease between spring leaves when the spring is installed on the car.

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  • #2
    Be aware that this works on original Ford springs and is not recommended for new modern replacement springs, Eaton etc..



    • #3
      Originally posted by JB-OB View Post
      Be aware that this works on original Ford springs and is not recommended for new modern replacement springs, Eaton etc..

      I haven't heard that before. Why would that be?


      • #4
        Tom, Look at the Eaton web page under 'frequent questions'.

        I bought a new manufactured front spring from A & T Springs (most accurate reproduction) and it came with the manufacturer sticker & phone number. Their product, they should know,.... "modern steels, we do not recommend lubrication between leaves".

        Second most important point, after 200 miles, re-torque the center bolt.


        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          Jim how do you tell an original from a replacement? The JS really doesn't say to much other than bevel, but a repo can also be beveled

      • #5
        It's more obvious .. era replacements (into the 70's ?) each leaf was square cut. I suspect since the 80's replacement springs have the tri-cut leaves. As for quality, I compare to the blue print found in the Bratton's catalog .....of the three front springs I ordered only A & T Springs had the leaves stacked as per the blue print.


      • #6
        I bought a rear replacement from Steve at Bert's. I asked if it should be lubed or no lube and he said lube. So I did pretty much about the same thing as Tom I think except the powder coating. It's pretty dry where I live and I never drive the A in the rain. I used a flap disc on my small grinder to take the sharp edge off the end of each leaf sprayed 4 cans of graphite on each leaf except the top of the top and bottom of the bottom. Smeared the same grease Tom used and painted after assembled. The car sits level now and has a good ride. I put new shocks on at the same time.


        • #7
          No one answers the phone at A&T to ask questions..
          After checking around, some car companies evidently like NyoGel 774VH-MS, silica thickened grease. TAI Lubricants is N. American distributor, at $120 / 17.6 oz tub !! Another spring vendor suggested teflon spray on new repro's unpainted leaves. Our late Ranger work truck has a very thin hardly noticeable black coating which comes off by rubbing hard so perhaps it's a graphite coating.
          Last edited by plyfor; 08-09-2018, 08:45 PM.


          • #8
            Most of the vendors sell spring covers. Is there any one that is preferred? Thinking of putting them on the Town Sedan.


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            This gallery has 1 photos.
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          • Steve Plucker
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            Marco Tahtaras did an excelent REAR Spring Chart showing just where the different individual springs went in a assembled REAR spring.

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