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I am in the process of replacing my gas tank. I am concerned about a water leak around the bolt that secures the electrolock cable clamp on the top of the engine near the distributor.. I removed that nut that secured the clamp, water came out, and the stud is loose also. I installed a spare armored cable clamp on the engine to stop the leak while the I replace my gas tank. What should I do when I put everything back together? Should I remove the stud and put thread sealer on it before reinstalling the clamp? Do I have a bigger problem? Suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Supergnat
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gnat
before any head nuts are removed including the one which holds the armored cable the cooling system must be drained lower than the height of the head gasket. you risk water going into the cylinders and the crankcase / oil. at this point since you removed the nut already drain down the coolant, remove all the spark plugs. when you crack the oil drain plug loose you can see if the coolant went into the oil as oil floats on top of water. you do not want to crank the motor over with the plugs in as you risk the chance of bending a connecting rod if the coolant went intro the cylinder (hydrolock). after removing the plugs crank it around to blow out any water / coolant, then I would probably put a little ATF (automatic transmission fluid) into each cylinder and crank it around while the plugs are still out to prevent anything from rusting if the coolant did indeed enter... -
This is an extremely important thread; making a very important point. What Mitch says is not common knowledge.
It is almost worth a sticky.Comment
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Do yourself a favor and NEVER use the cable clamp that attaches to the head. Unless you are in fine point class. If you are on the road and have a distributor problem you will be happy that clamp was removed.
mikeMichael
1928 speedster
1929 closed cab p/u
1930 standard roadster
1931 deluxe tudor sedan
1967 ss/rs conv.camaroComment
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Mitch and others. Thanks so much for the quick response. I will do what Mitch suggested I am headed out to lower the water level now. The other part of my question relates to the stud which the clamp mounts on. The stud was very loose. Once the nut was off I could unscrew the stud with my fingets. Should I remove it and apply some type of thread locking liquid? What I plan to do is use the old spare clamp to take up the extra space between the nut and the top of the engine. There is still a slight leak around the stud now even thought I have not rotated the engine. Thanks, SupergnatComment
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put some sealer on it and screw it back inComment
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ya, Permatex #2 would be ideal for this. It is non-hardening. perfect for this job.
That is stud #8, just for reference. In some cases, the threaded holes in the block go all the way thru into the water jacket. Henry did not do this but if they have been drilled out sometimes it happens. I have even put Permatex #2 all around the stud itself where it pokes up into the head to stop a difficult-to-control seepage.
Inspect the stud threads to be sure they are not damaged and then go for itComment
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I am trying to figure out if a lock washer is used on the engine stud where the distributor cable clip is located. I know there are no washers used on the other 13 nuts, but it seems that maybe the distributor stud might need one.
Rusty Nelson07-30-2018, 10:51 AM -
Would it be correct to say that nuts and bolts ON the engine do not get painted? Would it be ok to do a single nut replacement/removal on the head, paint that section and retorque the nut after the paint cures them move on to the next one? OR remove them all, paint and head and replace/ retorque without pulling the head and changing the gasket?06-09-2018, 10:50 AM -
I'm replacing a blown head gasket. I believe head stud #8 is the one that holds the clamp for the ignition cable. In my case, I'm using the skinny ignition cable and don't need a clamp. #8 is a little longer than the other studs to accommodate the clamp. If I replace the clamp with a flat washer to make the exposure above the nuts all the same, will it interfere with the torque? I'm thinking it won't...06-21-2017, 01:26 AM -
I'm thinking about adding a temperature probe to the "gooseneck" water outlet. The existing outlet will have to be removed since it does not have a hole for a probe. Will this operation require replacement of the head gasket?
Thanks!09-21-2018, 10:40 PM -
I am going through the troubleshooting blue book to fix a no start 31.
All of the tests so far look good in testing the points, starter, terminal box, both coil posts, timing with light.. I came across these and not sure what the readings mean, and if they are normal.
Key OFF, Multimeter on DCV 10, red lead on - coil, I get 6.63 on both the tip of the dist cable and 6.63...07-22-2018, 05:59 PM -
Since this is the second speedo cable I have purchased from Moss, I was informed they get them from Snyder's, so I am sending out this warning. The internal cable for the 28/29 is too short if you use the stock outer cable!!
It will fit but when pushed all the way into the depth of the turtle, it is short in making it all the way into the speedo square and you need it all the way into...09-18-2017, 09:30 PM -
Trying to get my speedometer working on my '31 Vicky. I assembled everything took a drive, speedometer worked for a couple of miles then quit. Changed nothing except to install a speedometer cable ordered from Mike's.
Troubleshooting, took the cable off the speedometer in the dash, a quick drive and clearly the inside cable spins. Took the speedometer out and ran it with my drill and...09-21-2018, 02:21 PM -
Looking for advice or article on what to check first in getting it working. Any ideas ? Thanks in advance.10-28-2017, 11:32 AM
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Henry tells me in his "Model A Instruction Book" that I should lube the speedo cable every 5,000 miles. I don't know if mine has ever been lubed but I want to do all "Henry" says. What is the most effective way to perform this vital fete?
He also tells me that I should lube and re-calibrate the speedo itself every 10,000 miles?? Newby that needs some help!
Thanks, ...09-21-2017, 08:37 AM -
I'll start by saying do not attempt to run the motor on the fuel supply from the tank. Pumping debris or old crap gas into the carburetor is never a good thing. This can cause your valves and rings to stick. It will also mess up a good working carburetor.
Hang an auxiliary fuel supply with fresh gas gravity fed directly to the carburetor....04-10-2018, 09:37 AM
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