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Electrolock cable clamp water leak

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  • Electrolock cable clamp water leak

    I am in the process of replacing my gas tank. I am concerned about a water leak around the bolt that secures the electrolock cable clamp on the top of the engine near the distributor.. I removed that nut that secured the clamp, water came out, and the stud is loose also. I installed a spare armored cable clamp on the engine to stop the leak while the I replace my gas tank. What should I do when I put everything back together? Should I remove the stud and put thread sealer on it before reinstalling the clamp? Do I have a bigger problem? Suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Supergnat

  • #2
    before any head nuts are removed including the one which holds the armored cable the cooling system must be drained lower than the height of the head gasket. you risk water going into the cylinders and the crankcase / oil. at this point since you removed the nut already drain down the coolant, remove all the spark plugs. when you crack the oil drain plug loose you can see if the coolant went into the oil as oil floats on top of water. you do not want to crank the motor over with the plugs in as you risk the chance of bending a connecting rod if the coolant went intro the cylinder (hydrolock). after removing the plugs crank it around to blow out any water / coolant, then I would probably put a little ATF (automatic transmission fluid) into each cylinder and crank it around while the plugs are still out to prevent anything from rusting if the coolant did indeed enter...
    3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
    Henry Ford said,
    "It's all nuts and bolts"
    "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

    Mitch's Auto Service ctr


    • #3
      This is an extremely important thread; making a very important point. What Mitch says is not common knowledge.
      It is almost worth a sticky.


      • #4
        Do yourself a favor and NEVER use the cable clamp that attaches to the head. Unless you are in fine point class. If you are on the road and have a distributor problem you will be happy that clamp was removed.
        1928 speedster
        1929 closed cab p/u
        1930 standard roadster
        1931 deluxe tudor sedan
        1967 ss/rs conv.camaro


        • #5
          Mitch and others. Thanks so much for the quick response. I will do what Mitch suggested I am headed out to lower the water level now. The other part of my question relates to the stud which the clamp mounts on. The stud was very loose. Once the nut was off I could unscrew the stud with my fingets. Should I remove it and apply some type of thread locking liquid? What I plan to do is use the old spare clamp to take up the extra space between the nut and the top of the engine. There is still a slight leak around the stud now even thought I have not rotated the engine. Thanks, Supergnat


          • #6
            put some sealer on it and screw it back in
            3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
            Henry Ford said,
            "It's all nuts and bolts"
            "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

            Mitch's Auto Service ctr


            • #7
              ya, Permatex #2 would be ideal for this. It is non-hardening. perfect for this job.
              That is stud #8, just for reference. In some cases, the threaded holes in the block go all the way thru into the water jacket. Henry did not do this but if they have been drilled out sometimes it happens. I have even put Permatex #2 all around the stud itself where it pokes up into the head to stop a difficult-to-control seepage.

              Inspect the stud threads to be sure they are not damaged and then go for it


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