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  • Original motor mounts

    I am taking off my FAM's and reinstalling my original mounts. I don't remember which way the pad on the outside of the frame goes.

  • #2
    The three circle protrusions face the frame. Two circles on top, one on the bottom. The steel mount opening faces backwards.

    Comment


    • #3
      I know how they go on inside the frame. I also now realize these pads I got from Bratton's are no good. They weren't molded properly, very uneven where the part goes through the frame with the spacer.

      Comment


      • Mike V. Florida
        Mike V. Florida commented
        Editing a comment
        You need to call Brattons, they will make good on your purchase. Theirs are made to the Ford blueprints so fitment should not be the issue but manufacture might be.
        Last edited by Mike V. Florida; 05-05-2018, 11:30 PM.

      • Dennis
        Dennis commented
        Editing a comment
        Well they didn't make good on a crushed dash light I got from them in the past, so everything from now on I buy from either Bert's or my local dealer CW Moss who is 15 minutes away. Moss has a lot of the same parts I have gotten from Bratton's.

    • #4
      Let us know how the install goes if your engine is already in the car. Lot's of discussion about fitment, etc. See photos posted previously. Some pads thicker than others and the angled mount side faces forward. I'd be interested to know if you needed a frame spreader, etc.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by plyfor; 05-05-2018, 10:18 AM.

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      • #5
        Engine is out. Yes I have a frame spreader and yes I plan on using it. Recently I helped install an engine back in a frame where it had previously been removed, the pads were not replaced. I remember reading about the past discussion and pad thickness. So let me restate this as I know how the metal part of the mount that bolts to the engine goes on. Obvious how the rubber piece inside the frame goes, hold the metal part of the mount up to the inner pad and the holes are supposed to match which they do, I already knew that. The rubber piece with the angle goes inside of the frame with the angle part of the rubber resting on the bottom inside. The length of the protrusion on the inside of the frame rubber is the same as the thickness of the frame. So the simple question, which way does the outside of the frame piece of rubber go? Do the protrusions on the rubber outer piece go against the frame, or do they go against the plate on the outside of the frame?

        I stopped by my local Model A store this morning, C.W.Moss, and picked up another set of pads. They look better as far as the rubber goes but I would say they probably came from the same manufacturer. I'll try to take pictures as I go this time and hopefully things will go better. One of the problems I was having with the set I got from Bratton's was when I tried to install the bushings, they would tear the rubber.

        Comment


        • #6
          Perhaps there may be some confusion with the outer pads. If memory serves, the FAM outer pads have the projections which enter the frame web and thru which the sleeves are installed so they are isolated in theory, because there are no inner pads with FAM"S. With our stock pads, as in the photo in post 4, the projections are part of the repro inner pads with the bottom lip. The sleeves are supposed to fit in the outer pad holes and thru the inner pad projections . Sometimes the holes in the rubber are not perfect, and like yours, get distorted by the sleeves. We had that issue but didn't affect the final mount to frame install as long as the sleeves are isolated. Our issue and hopefully not yours is that the inner pads were way too thick and wouldn't go in easily. The front body bolts in our case had to be removed and reinstalled after all mount bolts tightening was completed.
          Last edited by plyfor; 05-05-2018, 03:15 PM.

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          • Dennis
            Dennis commented
            Editing a comment
            That is not what the question is. Which way does the outer rubber pad go? Protrusion against the frame? Protrusion away from the frame?

        • #7
          Dennis, the pads are there to isolate the metal on metal of the mounts to the frame. If the inside pad pokes all the way through, then the outer pad should poke out of the flat plates with the tubing pieces through both pads and mounts. It has been long enough that I don't actually remember taking mine apart and the exact alignment, but I do know it is all about isolation.
          You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

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          • #8
            looking at Brattons catalogue, see attached (reduce image %), their outer pads show indentations and the inner pads (like ours) with the projections.The indentations (towards frame) and projections should face each other thru the web for the sleeves to fit. (Our sets of outer pads had no recessed indentations and the sleeves just compressed the rubber).Hope this is the ? and answer you're seeking.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by plyfor; 05-05-2018, 04:58 PM.

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            • Dennis
              Dennis commented
              Editing a comment
              Hard to tell what is in your picture. Try posting a jpeg if possible.

            • Dennis
              Dennis commented
              Editing a comment
              Flip the outer pad over and you will see they have protrusions on them also...

          • #9
            Originally posted by DaWizard View Post
            Dennis, the pads are there to isolate the metal on metal of the mounts to the frame. If the inside pad pokes all the way through, then the outer pad should poke out of the flat plates with the tubing pieces through both pads and mounts. It has been long enough that I don't actually remember taking mine apart and the exact alignment, but I do know it is all about isolation.
            The holes in the outer plate are only big enough for the bolt to pass through. So what I decided to do was make a simple tool to get the bushing in without tearing the protrusion. The tool was turned down from a 3/8 bolt so it would pass through the bushing, a 3/8 nut was turned down to the same size as the OD of the bushing, and a taper was made on the nut that was turned down. To install the bushing in the pads, the bushing is placed between the nut and the tapered piece, a little liquid soap, push in until the bushing goes through pieces, unscrew the taper from the bolt, finish the rest of the install. Maybe I put too much into this, but I just hated seeing torn pieces of rubber when I put the bushings in. Maybe this will help somebody someday. Also I decided to put the pads so the protrusions are facing each other.
            You do not have permission to view this gallery.
            This gallery has 4 photos.

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            • #10
              Here's another showing the tapered piece with the bushing through the inside frame rubber. No more torn rubber
              You do not have permission to view this gallery.
              This gallery has 1 photos.

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              • #11
                The last two sets of rubber pads for original motor mounts were a perfect fit, and I bought them from Snyder's. Some other's are too thick.

                Comment


                • Dennis
                  Dennis commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I noticed the pads that were with the FAM I removed had Snyder's name molded in them.

                • CarlG
                  CarlG commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Before I replaced my engine this last time, I replaced the rubber pads and associated hardware. Long story short, I ended up using the rubber pads from the Snyder's kit and the hardware from the Bert's kit. The rubber in the Bert's kit was too thick, and the bolts in the Snyder's kit were too long.

                • Dennis
                  Dennis commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The bolts in the Snyder kit too long... sounds familiar. It just doesn't get any better than when the cotter hole is 1/4" past the end of the castle nut. Conversation piece. I should get some of those tags that we use for parts so I can write on them where they were bought from.
                  Last edited by Dennis; 05-07-2018, 10:06 PM.

                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  That’s why I buy most of my hardware through fordbolts (Roy) pricey but more correct in fit and finish

              • #12
                Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
                The last two sets of rubber pads for original motor mounts were a perfect fit, and I bought them from Snyder's. Some other's are too thick.
                Same here...Snyders is the only way to go on this issue!

                Pluck

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                • #13
                  Originally posted by Dennis View Post

                  The holes in the outer plate are only big enough for the bolt to pass through. So what I decided to do was make a simple tool to get the bushing in without tearing the protrusion. The tool was turned down from a 3/8 bolt so it would pass through the bushing, a 3/8 nut was turned down to the same size as the OD of the bushing, and a taper was made on the nut that was turned down. To install the bushing in the pads, the bushing is placed between the nut and the tapered piece, a little liquid soap, push in until the bushing goes through pieces, unscrew the taper from the bolt, finish the rest of the install. Maybe I put too much into this, but I just hated seeing torn pieces of rubber when I put the bushings in. Maybe this will help somebody someday. Also I decided to put the pads so the protrusions are facing each other.
                  As they should be.

                  Pluck

                  Comment


                  • #14
                    Help me understand the tightness of the three bolts.
                    After the motor mounts are installed, how tight are the nuts tighten down to the frame on the bolt sleeves and rubber mount? Do you compress the rubber mount a little or a lot and you have a castle nut and pin to set to. Thank you

                    Comment


                    • #15
                      The nuts are tight because the steel spacers set the distance.

                      Comment


                      • #16
                        The engine is in and bolted up. Everything fits fine and yes I used a frame spreader to make the job go easier.

                        Comment

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