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  • Pressure Plate Surface Rust

    I bought this rebuilt pressure plate at an auction last year for $10. It has some surface rust on the clutch surface, not alot. How would be the best way to deal with this. Looking at it I am doubtful it would cause much of a problem if it does not get any worse. Thinking just put some ATF on it til I am ready to use it unless someone has a good suggestion to get rid of the rust without messing up the surface. Rod
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    "Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good." Thomas Sowell

  • #2
    Hey, don't do a thing. Install it and run it. If you want to hang it on the wall, ATF would work, just make a note of it having ATF on it on the tag you nail to it.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

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    • Rowdy
      Rowdy

       Banished  Badge Holder

      Rowdy commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Wiz. I don't hang many parts on the wall, but have a few large cabinets and a locker out of the UP roundhouse that was in North Platte that I put parts in. Will definately note to clean surface with brake cleaner before installing. I stored away the other 2 pressure plates I am keeping. Will get this one put away tomorrow. Rod

  • #3
    Clean it with a scotch pad and spray it with WD40. Clean with solvent before using.
    Bill
    http://www.brauchauto.com/
    Eastern Connecticut

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    • #4
      LIGHT RUST will ENHANCE the GRIP & LAY A BLACK MARK--LOL---I laid 2 BLACK marks with Minerva & Gregg sprayed them with 4 coats of CLEAR, to preserve them!!---GOD, how I miss him.
      Dad

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      • #5
        Light rust can be removed with oxalic acid (OA) mixed in water. Works fantastic and does not remove paint. You can buy it in powder form at hardware supply stores or on-line...it's used as a wood deck cleaner.

        I've seen a rusty bicycle frame placed in a kiddy pool of OA...out came a rust free frame with the original paint and decals still on it. It was waxed and looked great.

        This is completely safe and environmentaly friendly. Take the left over OA and put it in your garden, your tomatoes will love it. After all, OA is derived from vegetables.

        I now always have OA on hand. You need to experiment with how much to use. Start with about a tablespoon of OA mixed into a gallon or water. Let your part sit in the mixture for a while, an hour or a few hours. If you mix it too strong or let it sit too long then a yellowish film will form on your part and its hard to remove. Experiment for yourself as to what works best.

        Sounds too good to be true? Most people disregard this info as 'fake' when I share this little secret. Now you know.
        Ayyy
        Senior Member
        Last edited by Ayyy; 04-22-2018, 09:50 PM.

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        • #6
          Four Zero (0000) steel wool and WD-40, rubbed in circular motions ....... then seriously look for some other Model A part to tackle.
          H. L. Chauvin
          Senior Member
          Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 04-22-2018, 02:32 PM.

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          • Rowdy
            Rowdy

             Banished  Badge Holder

            Rowdy commented
            Editing a comment
            Coated the machined surface with ATF, covered with wax paper, put in a box and stored away about 2 hrs ago. Then took the pile of front backing plates to the car wash and got rid of barn dust etc. Letting them dry right now, then taking pic's of each set to list later today. Maybe I will get back to work on the delivery this summer. Rod

        • #7
          You already took action; phosphoric acid (Ospho and other brands) would make quick work of it, along with some steel wool. Then you would have a coating of iron phosphate which would preserve it for years without any further treatment

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          • #8
            I use a 1/4 sheet electric sander to clean my pressure plates and flywheel working surfaces.

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            • #9
              I used a worn wire wheel in an angle grinder - does the circular motion for you. Then coated in a light gun oil.

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              • #10
                Many years ago I was working on a .22/.410 gun. Bead blasted the barrel and sprayed with WD-40, wrapped in paper, returned to rust a couple of weeks later. WD-40 is good on tar and bug stains, thats it

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                • #11
                  Yea wd-40 is good for removing grease off your hands and stickers and SHOULD be collecting dust in your garage. Should definitely stay the heck outa locks and guns. All it does is collect dust and get very gummy and not good for small pieces..
                  SeaSlugs
                  Senior Member
                  Last edited by SeaSlugs; 04-24-2018, 11:38 PM.

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                  • #12
                    I have not used WD-40 for anything in 20+ years. There are far superior products out there for almost everything. Rod
                    "Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good." Thomas Sowell

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                  • #13
                    I so agree. WD-40 is just awful stuff,

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                    • #14
                      2-0 steel wool on a palm sander that has a stick on pad. Then compressed air to remove all chards.
                      ____________________
                      Good enough.. Isn't.

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                      • #15
                        I just use a da orbital sander 1000 grit will knock the rust and leave a nice finish then coat it so it does not rust again

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