Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Made a good discovery yesterday

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Made a good discovery yesterday

    My buddy and I decided to take both the front and rear springs out from under my coupe, as it acted a little stiff and had a slight lean. We removed the front spring first and found it kinda rusty. We took it completely apart and I wire brushed all the rust off each leaf. We then greased about the first 4 inches of the leaves and put er back together. We next removed the rear spring and discovered to my surprise, that under the dust and dirt there was a new spring pack. No rust or any signs of wear at all. Well since we already had it out we decided to lay it on its side and soak it down with ATF, both sides. With everything now back together, BOY what a difference. The ol coupe just sort of floats down the road and now sits up nice and straight. Not something I would want to do on a regular basis but it was well worth the effort.

  • #2
    Yikes that was a lot of work!

    Comment


    • #3
      Standing Elk,That is what I did when restoring my 30 Tudor.What I do every spring to keep that smooth ride is wedge apart the springs with a screwdriver and squirt dry graphite between the leaves and then install leaf spring covers. People are amazed at the ride this old car has.

      You do not have permission to view this gallery.
      This gallery has 1 photos.

      Comment


      • #4
        For LAFFS, look at MAFCAs Picture of the Week, at the bottom of the Home Page. It looks like Ford built the cars on a LEANING assembly line, no wonder some LEAN!!!----AND, how are they going to kjust the headlights, with that leaning ADJUSTMENT GOODY????
        AND folks think I'm NUTS,, not even!!!---I'm the SANEST person I ever TALK to!
        KDad (With my NEW VFF hat!!)

        Comment


        • #5
          I grease the bottom of each leaf, then sprinkle powdered graphite on the grease, bolt the pack together, then use spring covers on them. And, as you say it gives a very smooth ride. My 29 Tudor rode like a lumber wagon when I bought it, and just squirting oil on the springs made a big difference.

          Comment


          • Greynomad
            Greynomad commented
            Editing a comment
            Grease and graphite - exactly what I do unless I'm intending to show the car. Then, I add graphite to the primer after having the leaves blasted. Re assemble and paint the pack black. No one is any the wiser except me in my silky smooth ride.

        • #6
          FWIW: From actual past leaf spring experiences:

          If one has original or later replaced Model A springs from a well used Model A that traveled on non-paved roads that were adorned with lots of grinding type sharp, silica sand, the sharp edges of the steel bottoms of the upper front and rear spring leaves usually wear about 3/32" or about 1/10" deep recesses in the tops of the immediately adjacent lower spring steel leaf leaves.

          At the ends of these worn spring leaf areas in the tops of the lower front and rear spring leaves, one can easily find and feel a sharp 90 degree steel edge.

          When springs are flexing on a bouncy, non-smooth paved road, these sharp 90 degree edges in the bottoms of the top leaves usually abut the sharp 90 degree edges in the worn tops of the adjacent lower leaves.

          Many former Model A articles address rectifying this very common condition when restoring well worn spring leaves, to ease, round out, and grind the 90 degree sharp edges off of the bottoms of the top leaves and also grind the sharp edges on the tops of the bottom leaves to avoid worn Model A spring leaves acting like stopping abruptly when flexing ..... like running into a solid brick wall.

          Never a bad idea to ease bottoms of new Model A leaf springs either; hence, prevent this exact same type of future leaf spring wear.

          After this grinding and easing of sharp edges is accomplished, and after any type of grease, oil, or graphite lubrication, your Model A will think it is rolling on clouds.

          Hope this helps to maybe prevent your wife from spilling hot coffee on her lap again .... and/or messing up her hairdo .... or smashing her hat after contacting the chicken wire reinforced Model A top.
          Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 04-21-2018, 11:44 AM.

          Comment

          Related Topics

          Collapse

          • Steve Plucker
            Front and Rear Spring Restoration
            by Steve Plucker
            What is the best way to restore the leaf springs?

            Electrolisis...Sand blast...wire wheel...all the above ...none of the above...

            Followed by painting each leaf or not?...or use graphite grease...

            Assemble....

            What have you done in your restoration to have a good looking front and rear spring?

            Thanks.

            Pluck
            01-19-2019, 01:20 AM
          • wrndln
            Front axle spring restoration
            by wrndln
            I have a question on restoring an original front spring. The spring is a standard 10 leaf spring. I have sandblasted the individual leaves. The question is: Should I epoxy prime the individual leaves before assembling them. I plan to use John Deere Slip Plate between the leaves to provide a lubricant. Any helpful comments would be appreciated on whether the leaves should be painted or just assemble...
            06-21-2019, 02:31 PM
          • Tom Wesenberg
            Spring Lubrication, Mystik Grease, Graphite, and Covers
            by Tom Wesenberg
            This has worked well for me. I've done a few for customers. Round the bottoms of the ends of each spring leaf. Grind the edge of any worn pockets on the tops of each spring leaf. Sandblast and powdercoat the springs, then coat them with Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease, sprinkle on graphite, and wrap them with spring covers. I can't imagine they will ever see a speck of rust in my lifetime, and they have...
            You do not have permission to view this gallery.
            This gallery has 3 photos.
            07-18-2017, 08:16 AM
          • Steve Plucker
            Marco's FRONT Spring Chart
            by Steve Plucker
            Marco Tahtaras did an excelent REAR Spring Chart showing just where the different individual springs went in a assembled REAR spring.

            That being the case ...did he ever do one for the FRONT Spring Assembly?

            I say this because I have several disassembled front springs and I do not know just where some of the leaves would go because they are of different lengths and thicknesses....
            01-20-2019, 05:08 PM
          • Fomoco998
            Rear spring removal
            by Fomoco998
            Pulled the rear from the car and removed all the brakes. Got it on saw horses and have what is called a traveling spring spreader looking for any extra precautions in removing spring with a spreader of this type . Thanks
            07-01-2018, 04:17 PM
          • Wobbly Dave
            1916 Front Spring Oilers?
            by Wobbly Dave
            I recently acquired a Canadian 1916 Touring T. I thought it odd that the front spring shackles do not have any provision for oiling. Aren't these supposed to have holes in the perches and springs for flip top oilers or something? It looks like there is a spot on the spring but no hole, just a ghost of a circle. They could not have originally been like this - could they?
            You do not have permission to view this gallery.
            This gallery has 3 photos.
            04-11-2020, 12:20 PM
          • plyfor
            Front Spring install (Andrew's /others' method) and torque question
            by plyfor
            Just installed front spring for a friend, trying the Andrews redbook method (wood block) for the 1st time. We usually use a spreader but this instance didn't remove the splash apron, so the spreader nut was a challenge. The thin wood blocks between the spring eyes even when greased can bind under axle pressure, so we added a thin piece of greased scrap metal on top of the block so the spring eye would...
            02-23-2019, 01:56 PM
          • dmdeaton
            Installing Rear Leaf Spring
            by dmdeaton
            I got my differential shoved up in place today. Is there a torque spec on the Ubolt nuts? Seems like I can favor the spring to one side or the other by the tightness. I am glad to get this hung....
            You do not have permission to view this gallery.
            This gallery has 1 photos.
            04-21-2018, 08:15 PM
          • Mickey
            Update on installing new springs
            by Mickey
            I got new front and rear springs from A-Springs and want to prepare them for installation. My question is how big of a C clamp do I need to disassemble them for filing, lubing, painting. I don't know how much compression there is. Would I need a 6"-8"-10" to handle the springs relaxing. At A-Springs recommendation I got the 10 leaf rear but want to remove #7 and #9 for a better ride...
            12-18-2017, 02:03 PM
          • plyfor
            Leaf Spring Lube ?
            by plyfor
            I've read that some of the leaf springs are now made with new types steel that are not compatible with oil and grease. Older manuals say to lube , etc. Wonder if spray graphite falls in to this category which we currently use on a lot of classics. Going to install a new rear A spring and curious if others have heard this.
            08-06-2018, 10:09 AM
          Working...
          X