I hope this isn't going to be a common occurrence on the latest new distributor bodies, caps, and rotors. Only 1500 miles on this one. Clearance between rotor to distributor body pins .025" on all 4 locations. Now I got to measuring and looking at other things and noticed how the cap looks, notice the carbon (?) in the middle of the cap. It looks shallow like it's burned off a little. And the rotor looks like it's not rubbing on the cap, notice no rub spot and blackened where it should be making contact. So I measured the distance from the top of the distributor body and compared the protrusion of the cap... THEY WEREN'T EVEN TOUCHING!!! Quality parts! There's a photo of the old cap that was on it months ago for comparison. Old cap does not fit new distributor body. New rotor does not fit old distributor body. The old rotor had over .125" gap to the old distributor body, don't know how it ever ran and that was why I changed them. I kept my old parts and now I'm thinking about making them fit and using them. The old rotor has a steel bar instead of a brass bar on the top. Months ago I tried building it up and gave up because I only had a flux core wire feeder. I have a TIG now so it's easily doable.
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Can you bend the rotor spring up enough to touch the cap? If it doesn't touch as it should, then the arcing will eat away the carbon, as you described.
The rotors I've seen are brass at the tip, so if they are too short you could easily solder a small piece of brass on it to extend it. Just be sure it's also the correct width to match the old end. -
I have a spare rotor and yes I bent it up. I'm giving that a try for now. The rotor that was in the car when I bought it is steel. But it had a gap of over .125" That was why I bought a new distributor body and rotor. Had to get a new cap to fit the distributor body also as none of the old parts fit any of the new parts. I'm going to TIG the steel rotor to get the gap where it should be so I'll have my spare if needed. Thanks guys!Comment
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That sucks!!Comment
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I had a rotor that had no lug on the inside to locate in the slot in the cam. It went around and around when I worked out why the car wouldn't run. It had moved to where it was half way between contacts in the body meaning the spark would jump either way. It sounded like WW3 with all the backfiring. I know I have a good muffler - it didn't split.
I put that rotor on when I was changing the body because it was suffering the old Model A malady of a cross fire between #s 3 and 4. Shoulda changed one thing at a time, I suppose. Both the body I took off and the rotor I put on were rubbish.Comment
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I've seen some of the new distributor bodies that fit loose on the distributor housing, but the ones I bought from Little Dearborn and from Bratton's were a perfect fit. I've never seen a problem with a new rotor, but I haven't bought a new one in many years.Comment
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What size gap do you usually try for between the end of the rotor button and the contacts in the distributor cap body? Our '28 coupe is running good now and the rotor and cap (body) appear to be in good shape but the gap is probably .050-060. The brass part on the rotor is so thick & heavy I cannot bend/straighten it without breaking the rotor. If I can gain any power or performance by closing...10-27-2020, 08:45 PM -
As is shown in the picture, the rotor is correctly positioned. However, The copper of the rotor indeed contacts the #1 cylinder post in the distributor body.
Question, as there is to be a gap between the two, how do I correct this issue?You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.08-15-2019, 02:51 PM -
Tuneup day today. new points installed , new W18 plugs , Dist body , cap, rotor. Points set and align perfect. Timing checked. Plugs were gapped at 35 out of box . But the the Rotor button is sloppy and loose ....cant anything be reproduced that ya haven't got to Frig with.... amazing ....got to Fisherman /Farmer fix that now...05-15-2019, 11:13 AM -
Balance is important to all rotating parts, including the distributor rotor. I turned the bottom end of an old distributor shaft to 3/8" so I could chuck it into my electric drill. I then installed an old cam and rotor on the top end. My drill spins at 1000 RPM, which is what the rotor spins when the Model A engine is running at 2000 RPM. It makes the drill and my hand shake because it's out...08-24-2021, 10:13 AM -
I have been tearing my hair out for the last few days trying to figure out why I can't get my A to idle properly. The engine has about 600 miles on it since a complete overhaul by a professional garage (Hansen's in Ramona, CA); it had a complete electrical system restoration about a week ago by a professional Model A mechanic (Ron Alley in Culver, OR). Ron also rebuilt the carb and assured that all...10-01-2017, 09:51 PM -
I just saw this picture on the internet of a bad rotor. This new rotor was purchased at Mike's, so he might want to reconsider who manufactures the parts he sells.
Look at the arc at the end of the rotor. It doesn't take much thought to know that isn't correct. I wonder who makes these things?
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Hugh purchased a brand new quail from vintique over a year ago second he had purchased a brand new radiator from brass works. Today as im wrapping up his restoration I couldn’t get the new cap to fit properly on the radiator thinking it was a simple adjustment with the two screws on the new cap I played with it for about ten minutes, finally I removed the screws and the small tabs all together no...01-29-2021, 06:16 PM -
Afternoon everyone,
I wonder if I can ask for some advice please. I have a good friend here in France that has a really nice collection of cars. One of them is a 1931 Citroen C4 with a very pretty little coupé body. It also has an overhead valve conversion. This conversion was done over here in France, I would guess in the late 1930's. It is a really nice job.
This...04-23-2019, 08:48 AM -
Before I break something. How is the rotor held on to the shaft of the helmet 37-41 distributor? Is it by a key, snap ring, chewing gum?
Thanks09-03-2018, 01:28 PM -
The original gas cap on the 29 Tudor that I am restoring would not tighten down. The threads looked okay but when I tried to tighten it down it just kept turning. So I bought a repro from Brattons and when I went to put it on the gas tank I seemed to have a tough time of it. Those fine threads are a pain (I guess that is why Ford changed it on to 30-31 cars)
Anyway, I got it to fit (I...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.03-20-2018, 12:10 PM
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