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Clutch Pressure Plate: New vs. Rebuilt Original...Which Do You Recommend?

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  • Clutch Pressure Plate: New vs. Rebuilt Original...Which Do You Recommend?

    I'll be replacing the clutch in the next few weeks. My stock pressure plate options seem to be either a brand new one, or a rebuilt unit. Which type do you prefer?

    For reference, this is Bert's New Pressure Plate:
    https://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=13103
    Last edited by Ayyy; 04-10-2018, 01:16 AM.

  • #2
    Nine inch Borg & Beck style. This would require some machining on the flywheel. At the same time you could have 10 or 15 pounds taken off the flywheel. Here's one at Brattons: LINK

    Comment


    • Ayyy
      Ayyy commented
      Editing a comment
      This looks like a nice way to go, but according to Brattons, "To use this, the crank must be counterbalanced...". For me this clutch job is for a stock application (my crank is not counterbalanced). In my case, only the clutch is being replaced; the engine is not coming out.

      I'm sure that if the engine was out for a complete rebuild, most folks would opt for the V8 clutch, like what you saw at Bert's.

      In my case, I need to make a decision on which stock pressure plate represents the most reliable unit...a new unit like at Bert's, or a rebuilt unit like at Fort Wayne Clutch, or similar.

  • #3
    If you go with the V-8 setup make sure the pressure plate fingers are not held in by C-clips. If they are drill them for cotters or you will be dead in the water.
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • #4
      When I have been at Bert's and they build up engines 99% of what I saw them do used the pressure plate that Mike K provided a link along with the advice he gave you as well as the info Bratton's provided.

      Comment


      • Ayyy
        Ayyy commented
        Editing a comment
        Please see my comment at Mike K's post above

    • #5
      I have 2 of the flathead era pressure plates that will be put to use. I picked up one rebuilt at an auction for $10, the other was one I sent with my stock pressure plates and received it back rebuilt from Fort Wayne clutch. The one I bought at an action has a couple of small spots of surface rust that I will have to deal with. Does anyone have any recomendations on what to put on the machined surfaces to prevent surface rust on the pressure plates I just received back? Was thinking ATF, then putting a piece of wax paper on it. ATF should clean off with brake cleaner when I am ready to use them. Rod
      At some point in time standardization was a creative idea.

      Comment


      • #6
        Rod
        Your idea may work fine and is cheap on the pocket. Many auto parts we buy rotors etc are coated with cosmoline. Here is a link to one place that has it. Just another option
        http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmo...st-preventive/
        3 ~ Tudor's
        Henry Ford said
        "It's all nuts and bolts"


        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

        Comment


        • #7
          In the 70's I learned the hard way that you never wrap parts in newspaper and store them in cardboard boxes. The mice totally destroyed my Corvair tranny parts.

          Comment


          • #8
            The statement "CRANKSHAFT MUST HAVE COUNTER WEIGHTS" is disputed by many. Its true to those who believe the weight of the total rotating assembly must not be deminished, or who believe the dampening properties rely on the 65lb pound flywheel.

            I am currently working on the Borg and Beck modification. I do not have a counterbalanced crank. The weight has been removed by removing the shoulder that supports the original style pressure plate. The result is a flat single surface flywheel. No other weight has been removed. I am also implementating the Clings V8 transmission install at the same time. If interested, I can report back the results when the project is completed.
            Last edited by Russ/40; 04-10-2018, 06:31 PM.

            Comment


            • tbirdtbird
              tbirdtbird commented
              Editing a comment
              Of course we are interested!

            • DaWizard
              DaWizard commented
              Editing a comment
              Pictures, pictures, PICTURES of progress!

              Russ, we need pictures of the process.

          • #9
            use a good original call fort wayne clutch 1-800-258-8243 ask for Kelly, they do great work and fair prices..if you get a recording leave your phone# they will call you back.

            Comment


            • Ayyy
              Ayyy commented
              Editing a comment
              For the rebuilt units, I hear the name Fort Wayne Clutch more than any other name, and I haven't heard anything bad so far. I'm hoping more folks will give their experience and recommendation of new vs rebuilt.

          • #10
            I really have not heard much bad either way. I sent all of my cores to Fort Wayne Clutch and received four rebuilt originals, four rebuilt clutch disks, one flathead pressure plate and three re-conditioned u-joints back. It was a 520 lb. crate I sent them. Very happy I made the deal. Everything looks great, cleared one corner of one of the buildings at the farm and have more sellable parts. Rod
            Last edited by Rowdy; 04-11-2018, 03:07 AM.
            At some point in time standardization was a creative idea.

            Comment

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