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  • Bent hinges - DUMB MISTAKE

    I am really embarrassed to write this but I desperate need of advice. I accidentally drove my 28 Fordor Leatherback into the garage with the driver side rear door open. The door caught on the edge of the garage opening molding and bent the door back over the rear fender. I was able to straighten the edge of the door where it contacted the fender but the door will not close anymore. The upper and lower hinge halves mounted on the door and the body are bent. I discovered, to my dismay, that the hinge halves are mounted with a combination of wood screws and machine screws with flat washer and a nut. The nuts are not captive so when I removed the machine screw the nut and washer fell to the bottom of the cavity between the sheet metal and the original interior. This is true on both the body and the door. The interior trim on the door is nailed to the wood of door frame so it must be removed to retrieve the nut and washer and washer in order to remount the door hinge halves. I did that for the lower door hinge and was able to straighten the hinge half and re install it. After rehanging the door, which now closes a little more, I am still unable to get it to close. I tried putting the door in position without using the hinge pins and could see that the alignment is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch off. Is there a way to bend the hinge halves in place to realign the door without removing them? My car still has the original interior and I know it will be destroyed if I remove the interior to access the mounting hardware for the body mounted hinge halves. I am not a happy camper these days.

    Mitch, can you recommend a body shop in our area that could fix my door?

  • #2
    Bummer for sure, Leverage can be your friend, just as the hinges were bent backward, you could place a small rod at the bent hinges and use the door as leverage to bend them back, this would have been best to try before bending door back in the event it tweaks the door a bit.

    Comment


    • #3
      Don't be too hard on yourself. We've all been there at one time or the other.

      Comment


      • #4
        I know the 30 fordor rear hinges are easy to remove. how about the '29?

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Rich
          I'm really sorry to hear that, but accidents happen and usually from dumb ass things that we do. A couple years ago I backed out of the house garage without having the door up all the way. I dented the rear of the roof and screwed the paint when the lower garage handle stud and nut whacked it. Thankfully it was not Lucy. Anyway with that being said did you report it to your insurance? They would have had to make the car right and being that your car is original with old paint that prob won't match. This being said it's probable that they would have had to pay for a total paint job and everything involved which comes with that. This is one reason why I carry a super high agreed value of which many say i'm nuts. We all know what it takes to paint one of these cars the proper way. Major disassembly!!!.


          P.S. You say the door was wacked also of which you straightened it. Is it a perfect as before??

          Feel free to call me at the shop today
          3 ~ Tudor's
          Henry Ford said
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

          Comment


          • #6
            Supernat, I would take the door off and build a leverage tool to straighten them one at a time. IMO only or at least that's what I'd try first. Good luck, Pat
            Model A's and of course the famous AA's

            Comment


            • #7
              I know it hurts but first take some pictures especially the hinges and back of the door where it hinges and body as well this will help develop a good plan so nothing gets made worse.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for all the responses. A couple of members of my club recommended contacting the insurance company but I was so nervous about the interior that I did not. Plus I suspect my already high NJ insurance rates would increase on our everyday cars for years to come. I guess I could still do that but since I messed with it myself I may have blown the opportunity. I do not have the ability to haul it anywhere since I don't have a trailer to a vehicle to pull one. I could drive it to a local place with the door in the back seat. The exterior paint is not original since it was painted by the second owner in the 60's. When I install the hinge pins and try to close the door the edge of the door hits the outside edge of the door pillar when the door about a foot from being closed.
                I tweaked the hinges a little more and there was some improvement. I think I found the main problem as can be seen if the attached photo. The lower hinge piece attached to the body appears to be pushed in towards the interior. I think this is causing the door edge to bind on the pillar because the gap between the edge of the door and the pillar is reduced. The bottom screw is a wood screw. The two top screws securing the hinge half to the pillar are machine screws and one of the nuts fell off when I tried to remove it initially thinking it was a wood screw. I don’t know how I will be able to move the hinge plate back to the original position without removing the interior. Is there a way to remove the side panel on this 28 body style without destroying it? I took a break from the task to consider any suggestions that might be offered.
                You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                This gallery has 1 photos.

                Comment


                • BNCHIEF
                  BNCHIEF commented
                  Editing a comment
                  From the picture it does not appear that the hinge moved since the screws set in a tapered cut, I was thinking the outer edge of the hinge would have bent where the pins go thru, are the doors on this car all metal or a wood frame with metal skin, the door I believe would sustain the damage before the pillar possibly.

                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Rich call me when you have time

              • #9
                I based my guess on the positioning of the pillar hinge on the opposite side of the car. The edge of that hinge lines up perfectly with the pillar metal above and below it. I believe if the hinge piece on the damaged side was moved to the right so that the edge lined up with the pillar metal the door edge would then not bind on the pillar when I try to close it. I am definitely not a body mechanic. I cannot envision a way to reform the hinge to increase the gap between the vertical edge door and the pillar during the closing process. Any suggestions?

                Comment


                • BNCHIEF
                  BNCHIEF commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I agree with what you are saying and I see your point from the picture,but I have seen the outside edge bend as well, see what Mitch has to say he is usually spot on. This damage would have bent the hinges back towards the rear of the car which would bring the door closer to the pillar and cause the binding as well. What do the hinges look like on the other side for reference.

                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Rich is going to take the door off by the pins and drive it over here hopefully today.

                • BNCHIEF
                  BNCHIEF commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Did not realize you were that close, he is in good hands now, have a good day.

                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  prob 5-7 miles

              • #10
                This is off the wall for the nut and washer that fell off inside, but a molly anchor deal could be used in lieu of the traditional machine screw and nut and washer. Mollies have a nut with spring loaded wings that splay out once inserted all the way thru the pillar. You would have to insert the machine screw portion of the molly thru the hinge hole first, then thread on the spring loaded nut, then push into the pillar hole. You might have to enlarge the pillar hole slightly to accomodate the wings. There are smaller sizes of mollies available other than the traditional sizes at the hardware store. I would start with McMaster.com,
                they are a jobber of over 600K parts that are hard to get elsewhere.

                You might have to source the machine screw portion of the molly separately for the length and head type you wanted

                Comment


                • #11
                  Hi am happy again. I drove over the river to Mitch’s in Phila. and he and one of his mechanics were able to get the door to close, and even open again, using wood blocks and a plastic door stop. He is the best.

                  Comment


                  • BNCHIEF
                    BNCHIEF commented
                    Editing a comment
                    You can't get this kind of care anywhere else, Mitch is a great guy to have in your area for sure. Glad things worked out for you.

                  • tbirdtbird
                    tbirdtbird commented
                    Editing a comment
                    YaY!

                  • Big hammer
                    Big hammer commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Glad your happy again !
                    Mitch is the A man :-)

                • #12
                  For what it's worth, the thread size is the "ever popular" 12 X 24. Today they're kind of scarce, they're still made, just kind of scarce. Don't look for them in Walmarts!
                  Terry

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    Hey Rich i’m glad we were able to lend a hand. Although it’s not perfect because the hinges are tweaked at least it’s operable now. I bet it was warmer on the ride home...

                    I love your car it has a lot of character
                    3 ~ Tudor's
                    Henry Ford said
                    "It's all nuts and bolts"


                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      Yes the ride home was a lot warmer even without a heater. I'll head to body shop today to ask them to scan my paint color and make up a small can of paint so I can repaint what was was chipped off. The car will be then be ready for the fair weather events coming up. Thanks again and express my sincere appreciation to the other mechanic who assisted if getting the door functional again. Let me know when the hats arrive.Supergnat

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        The hats are a little bit away yet, but bring Bill over so you both can get a t-shirt and pin.
                        Here is a link about them

                        https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...ts-member-pins
                        3 ~ Tudor's
                        Henry Ford said
                        "It's all nuts and bolts"


                        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                        Comment


                        • #16
                          Hi Supergnat, Sorry to bother you during your brake issues but....I came across this thread. I have a 29 leatherback 60B. The 2 top screws on the rear door hinges spin(pic attached). The bottom one is strong/tight. Are you saying above that the 2 top screws are actually a bolt and nut set up? If so, did you ever figure out how to tighten yours without opening up the interior?
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #17
                            Originally posted by Ken Harvey View Post
                            Hi Supergnat, Sorry to bother you during your brake issues but....I came across this thread. I have a 29 leatherback 60B. The 2 top screws on the rear door hinges spin(pic attached). The bottom one is strong/tight. Are you saying above that the 2 top screws are actually a bolt and nut set up? If so, did you ever figure out how to tighten yours without opening up the interior?
                            This may or may not help
                            https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...ar-door-hinges
                            3 ~ Tudor's
                            Henry Ford said
                            "It's all nuts and bolts"


                            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                            Comment


                            • #18
                              Thanks Mitch. It's leading me to believe that the top 2 are flat head machine screws with nuts on the end. My guess is that the body wood the screws pass through has shrunk over time causing them to loosen. I doubt I can get at the nuts without removing an interior panel.
                              Maybe when the humidity comes back, they will be tight again.

                              Comment


                              • #19
                                Hi Ken, My 28 Leatherback interior is original and fragile so I did not try to get access to the the screw/nut re-secure it. I just left that screw in place as it is. I did ensure that the other screws were tight. I have had no issues with the door so far. It is my belief that the two screws closest to the outside of the body are wood screws. The one closest to the interior is a machine screw. Hope this helps. Supergnat

                                Comment

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