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Is it possible to repair a stripped head stud hole without removing the head? Thanks!
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Well I was hopin' but it's what I thought. So, what's the insert of choice? I read over on the other place about heli-coils and time-serts. I think this is a repair I don't want to screw up, so I'll give it to my machinist.Comment
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I do heli-coils all the time with no problems. You do have to get them straight. You need to work carefully and methodically. I have heard of TimeSerts but do not know what they are or if they are different. Might just be a name for a similar product by another company.
I am sure someone here knows for sureComment
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I use a bottoming tap instead of a pointy standard style so the threads get cut to the bottom of the hole.Comment
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I looked at the TimeSert vid. It would seem to be a competitor to HeliCoils; I did not see an advantage. In fact, there is one extra step.
The most important thing is to drill straight, and it did not look there was much effort put into that. Whichever system you would use, that is key.
To start with I would use the head as a drilling guide, but there is still some slop to the bit. I will write more up on this later. Would also like to see input from Geo Miller and othersComment
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Thanks, I value your comments. I get it that the hole has to be straight. I don't have all the stuff for this repair, and while I could make a jig, I don't want to screw it up. Never having done this before. I'm thinking it's a job for a pro.Comment
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DON'T try shortcuts when doing a thread insert. Follow the instructions totally or you "may" be SORRY!
Bill W.Comment
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Yeah, Bill I hear ya. My Dad had a saying: "It ain't a piano!" when over-doing some simple thing. But I think installing the heli-coil and getting it straight is kinda beyond my courage and what I have available in the shop to do it myself, without building a jig or buying a lot of stuff I'll probably not use again, so it's off to my friendly machinist to get this job done by a pro. So, this one "IS a piano".
Mitch: Yes, I've already pulled the head. Came off pretty easy with my home-made head-puller and fortunately all the studs screwed right out ao I'm replacing them, too.Comment
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I just purchased a 5.5:1 high comp. head from Snyder's. I'm sending the short block out to the folks in Skokie, Il. for a rebuild. I checked with them and they use the same paint that Snyder's sells. I want to paint the head before I get the block back. I think I know what to do regarding prepping and painting the head, but I wanted to double check with you guys first. Thanks in advance, Smi...07-28-2017, 09:04 AM -
What is causing water to ooz out of #3 and #2 head stud after about 100 miles on new "A" head and gasket?
What is the proper installation of head studs.......to tighten down or to run to the bottom of the threads and back off a 1/2 turn or so?11-13-2018, 10:28 PM -
I'm replacing a blown head gasket. I believe head stud #8 is the one that holds the clamp for the ignition cable. In my case, I'm using the skinny ignition cable and don't need a clamp. #8 is a little longer than the other studs to accommodate the clamp. If I replace the clamp with a flat washer to make the exposure above the nuts all the same, will it interfere with the torque? I'm thinking it won't...06-21-2017, 01:26 AM -
Well, sort of. I've found some cracks in my old head between the water jacket and stud holes. I really would like to replace it with a sound (not cracked not warped) regular head. All the vendors sell only high compression heads and add that new grade 8 studs ought to be used. I was starting to replace the studs but at number 5 it snapped off and that's before I even got close to the back ones. So...09-06-2018, 03:38 PM -
There's been lot of great discussion lately relating to my current project: changing the head. I've got a brand new 5:5 Snyder's head coming that will need to be painted. Does it need any prep or primer before applying the Ford green top coat?06-23-2017, 04:42 PM
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Tom W in particular will be interested in this.
The debate, at least in the Model A world, will rage on in perpetuity, despite that the Service Bulletins state to re-torque hot.
Anyway, I was wading thru my Motors manuals, going back into the early thirties, looking for some total advance comparison from earlier Stude 6-cyl with a 6.5 CR head, to the upgraded 8.3 head that was used...07-12-2018, 10:32 AM -
I am looking for a drawing of the stud locations vs the center line of the cylinder bores. I have a Winfield 7:1 crow's foot head that I need to have flycut to clear the pistons that stick up .062" above the block. I have been using a standard gasket, a solid copper gasket and then another standard gasket. That is not really working well at this time. It left me with a crack between the water...08-08-2018, 12:26 PM -
Ordered a 5.5:1 Snyder head via Mac's back in April. Just put it on Saturday night in preparation for the MARC national tour later this month. After I put it on, water was pouring out of the alignment pin hole under the distributor. Seems whoever machined this head drilled right down into the water jacket. Threaded the hole, installed an Allen screw with thread lock sealant and got the leak fixed....09-09-2018, 09:29 PM -
New Prus 8:1 aluminum high compression head installed. Can maintain 35 mph on hills I used to have to downshift into Ruckstell with. A noticeable improvement in performance all around. The aluminum head weighs 12 lbs. The old 3.98:1 cast iron head weighed 28 lbs.
...03-25-2018, 12:55 PM
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