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Horn Goes Ahooga When Engine Running Just Oogh When Engine Off

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  • Horn Goes Ahooga When Engine Running Just Oogh When Engine Off

    OK, not a show stopper question but just a minor annoyance. I suspect a poor ground, probably too much paint in places where it should not be because all the wiring was replaced and the horn blows fine when it gets enough juice. Will a horn relay fix this? Yeah, I know it's a band aid approach......

  • #2
    Leo

    Try lubricating it first. I use ATF
    see post #1 in this horn tech thread
    https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...8809-horn-info

    The horn does not ground through the mounting. It is grounded by the button and fed power via the light switch
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • #3
      Leo, sounds like the horn is dirty. The actual ground is the top of the steering column where the rod hits the steering wheel nut, so that should not be a problem. I would see about light oiling the 2 felt pads in the back of the horn.
      You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

      Comment


      • #4
        It only takes a drop or two to lube it, you don't want oil all over the place inside there

        There is less voltage available when the engine is off and the horn is very sensitive to this.

        It may also take a tiny bit of tweaking on the adjusting screw if oiling does not help

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey Mitch, I went through the maintenance as listed on your link not to long ago so I do not believe dirt is the problem. The horn is a Sparton and while it does work I cannot say that it was ever rebuilt or rewound. I did not know that the grounding was through the horn button/light switch. Now the light switch could be a problem because my steering box (even though rebuilt) oozes oil and I know that the light switch is contaminated with it. However, my headlights and cowl lights appear to work well so?

          Comment


          • #6
            Make sure you are getting full voltage at the power feed at the horn
            Then make sure your grounding good
            If your battery is suspect this could be an issue with the engine off
            Running the alt / gen is providing power.
            If all that is good it's prob a horn issue

            Make sure the commutator slots are clean
            3 ~ Tudor's
            Henry Ford said
            "It's all nuts and bolts"


            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

            Comment


            • BILL WILLIAMSON
              BILL WILLIAMSON commented
              Editing a comment
              Minerva did the same, until I gave her a 6 Volt, positive ground, single wire ALTERNATOR! She started so quick, most Folks thought she wuz on 12 VOLTS!
              Bill Deciever

          • #7
            When I first bought my 28 I had to press the horn button and kind of roll it around while pressing on it.
            This cleaned the grounding contact surface and made it blow like it should.
            On a friend's weak horn I had to remove the cover and lightly sand the commutator while it was spinning.
            Just a few seconds of light sanding, and the armature started picking up speed.
            Make your final horn adjustment with the cover on, as the cover pulls against the motor frame when the screw is tightened.
            Just one click in either direction on the horn adjustment screw can make a big difference in the sound.

            As others have said, a couple drops of oil on the felts, and if the horn is apart, then I put a light coat of grease on the wavy washer.

            Comment


            • SeaSlugs
              SeaSlugs commented
              Editing a comment
              All good points and yes its amazing how one little click can change the sound so drastically. Can go from sick cow to ahooga in one click haha.

            • BILL WILLIAMSON
              BILL WILLIAMSON commented
              Editing a comment
              OIL your HORN every 3 Months, give the felts a few drops from the DIP-STICK!
              Dad Dipshit

          • #8
            Simple limited, Vintage type occasional Model A Horn Motor Maintenance learned years ago that may help with a Model A horn mounted in-place:

            1. Rather than removal and a complete tear down and a complete Model A Horn Re-build Process, in addition to occasional oil lubrication, with that mentioned in reply no. 6 above, i.e.,

            A. "Make sure the commutator slots are clean.", and with that mentioned in reply no. 7 above, i.e.,

            B. "Just a few seconds of light sanding, and the armature started picking up speed."

            2. For A. above: After lots of Model A horn use, commutator slots may just be slightly clogged with worn, soft horn brush material and dust which may be cleaned with something like a Popsicle stick sharpened like a wood chisel; and,

            3. For B. above: After some time with "NO" brushes rubbing on the commutator, and with "NO" Model A horn use, especially in humid areas, commutators surfaces can become slightly oxidized like Model A ignition points, where for completing this rotating electrical circuit, the horn commutator may easilty be cleaned with something like a Brillo Pad, while hand rotating the horn's armature and commutator.

            Often mentioned for Model A's and us Seniors: If you do not use it, you may lose it ..... and in staying strictly on only this serious old vintage horn subject ...... Lubrication always helps!
            Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 02-20-2018, 01:56 PM.

            Comment


            • #9
              Old car guys never die.....

              They just Oogh!

              :rolling

              Comment


              • BILL WILLIAMSON
                BILL WILLIAMSON commented
                Editing a comment
                Whin they DIE, they jist go, AAAAAAH!---Kinda' like when you FINALLY lay down to sleep, the difference is, one wakes up & the other has "punched" out!
                Chief always said, "When I go, I want to go EASY"!----"Like HOW"?-----"Like go to bed some night & WAKE up DAID"!
                Dad Naptime
                Last edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 02-21-2018, 06:17 PM.

            • #10
              Disconnect the power from the horn, and run directly from a charged battery. That will let you know if it’s the horn, or power. Another weak electrical spot is the connections to the horn itself. Probably easier to just remove horn from the car for this.

              Comment


              • #11
                Hi Chuck, thanks to all for their input. Sure, if I connect the horn directly to the battery it blows like h-e-l-l, so that indicates that voltage is dropping someplace between the light switch and the push button on the steering wheel, correct? Tbirdtbird posted that there is less voltage when the motor is off than when it is running. If someone can explain to me how to use a meter to check that out (I'm electrically challenged) maybe it will disclose the answer......

                Comment


                • #12
                  Originally posted by leo View Post
                  Hi Chuck, thanks to all for their input. Sure, if I connect the horn directly to the battery it blows like h-e-l-l, so that indicates that voltage is dropping someplace between the light switch and the push button on the steering wheel, correct? Tbirdtbird posted that there is less voltage when the motor is off than when it is running. If someone can explain to me how to use a meter to check that out (I'm electrically challenged) maybe it will disclose the answer......
                  Just connect your volt meter to the starter switch and ground with the engine off, then read the voltage.
                  Then do the same with the engine running at fast idle, and you should see about one volt increase.

                  Comment

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