Announcement

Collapse

Welcome to the Model A Forums

General Discussion
See more
See less

Brace & Larry's, 1930 CCPU Build Thread

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #76
    I thought those jack stands got replaced by some new safe 4 leg stands with a cast iron post.
    Anyway, your bands are correctly installed, but in a past life someone had them on wrong side out, as shown by the wear at the spring hole.
    Everything looks good in your picture. Usually it's just the stop tab that gets bent out of shape.

    Comment


    • #77
      Hi Tom - Yea, the nice safe 4 post cast iron ones are under the front axel. I just run out of the good ones sometimes. I finally got the passenger e-brake lining to release the new drum - but only after trying to straighten out the emergency brake carrier. Knowing it still won't be right, I headed for Milts (my local parts supplier and knowledge expert) - and he pointed out that - yes it is bent, and also, it is from a 28-29 rearend, not a 30-31 (no half round tabs). So I have a new pair that I hope to get on today. I still need the arm springs, so will get an order off this morning. IMG_5003.JPGIMG_5004.JPGIMG_5005.JPGIMG_5009.JPG

      Comment


      • #78
        Now to install the *&%$*()) Emergency Brake Springs!!
        After help from Mitch showing Les Andrews technique... I decided to build a wire hook pull tool and take a shot. Pictures show shape of spring for Passenger side, Spring with chalk on it so you can see where it seats - against the service brake boss.
        Picture of the tool, and the spring installed on the emergency brake arm. I disconnected the “C” lever on the Emergency brake band, so the arm would travel back toward the axle.
        I used a stout large flat blade screwdriver to pry the loop up over the lock bolt on the arm, then reached through the wishbones from the front, grabbed the hook, and pulled it past the arm. I also used the screwdriver to push the spring hook back over the arm and then release it.
        Next step: install the wheels and tires - and adjust the e-brake and the Service brakes.



        21F1DAA6-D66A-4E8A-9CCB-F985D62605F4.jpeg863DA3F7-CC7A-4836-8D18-C9A876A8CD42.jpegF240F0D3-C613-40F3-AD71-BEE3455EF431.jpeg97BD9A0F-C724-4102-94CA-A7DDDE76E1BB.jpeg

        Comment


        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          Nice post Brace

          This will make a good addition to the tech brake thread

      • #79
        Mounted the front and rear Fenders - after the Cab was on the frame. After unbolting the cab and pulling the cowl bolts and two floor bolts by the kick panels, I used my Floor Jacks with 12” extensions (1/2” and 3/8”). It seems that there are two 1” holes in the splash aprons — right under the oak wood supports for the cab. I was able to raise up the cab and slide the front fender aprons under the cab. Loosened up the running boards and mounted both front fenders - and the headlight bar. My only issue now is that the holes for the Hood latches are about 1/2” off from the frame supports below them. Not sure why they would be this far off - but I guess I’ll wait to see where the hood sides line up.


        31A6E184-3537-48FC-8AFE-E4EF97EAA8D4.jpeg022C9F0B-3AC3-447B-BF92-CC5618558AE4.jpeg
        4ACF5C5D-B0EC-4D37-AA5A-CD73FF4D5616.jpeg
        07A81A9D-7020-43C0-B299-799077F7E622.jpeg

        Comment

        Related Topics

        Collapse

        Working...
        X