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Brace & Larry's, 1930 CCPU Build Thread

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  • #76
    I thought those jack stands got replaced by some new safe 4 leg stands with a cast iron post.
    Anyway, your bands are correctly installed, but in a past life someone had them on wrong side out, as shown by the wear at the spring hole.
    Everything looks good in your picture. Usually it's just the stop tab that gets bent out of shape.

    Comment


    • #77
      Hi Tom - Yea, the nice safe 4 post cast iron ones are under the front axel. I just run out of the good ones sometimes. I finally got the passenger e-brake lining to release the new drum - but only after trying to straighten out the emergency brake carrier. Knowing it still won't be right, I headed for Milts (my local parts supplier and knowledge expert) - and he pointed out that - yes it is bent, and also, it is from a 28-29 rearend, not a 30-31 (no half round tabs). So I have a new pair that I hope to get on today. I still need the arm springs, so will get an order off this morning. IMG_5003.JPGIMG_5004.JPGIMG_5005.JPGIMG_5009.JPG

      Comment


      • #78
        Now to install the *&%$*()) Emergency Brake Springs!!
        After help from Mitch showing Les Andrews technique... I decided to build a wire hook pull tool and take a shot. Pictures show shape of spring for Passenger side, Spring with chalk on it so you can see where it seats - against the service brake boss.
        Picture of the tool, and the spring installed on the emergency brake arm. I disconnected the “C” lever on the Emergency brake band, so the arm would travel back toward the axle.
        I used a stout large flat blade screwdriver to pry the loop up over the lock bolt on the arm, then reached through the wishbones from the front, grabbed the hook, and pulled it past the arm. I also used the screwdriver to push the spring hook back over the arm and then release it.
        Next step: install the wheels and tires - and adjust the e-brake and the Service brakes.



        21F1DAA6-D66A-4E8A-9CCB-F985D62605F4.jpeg863DA3F7-CC7A-4836-8D18-C9A876A8CD42.jpegF240F0D3-C613-40F3-AD71-BEE3455EF431.jpeg97BD9A0F-C724-4102-94CA-A7DDDE76E1BB.jpeg

        Comment


        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          Nice post Brace

          This will make a good addition to the tech brake thread

      • #79
        Mounted the front and rear Fenders - after the Cab was on the frame. After unbolting the cab and pulling the cowl bolts and two floor bolts by the kick panels, I used my Floor Jacks with 12” extensions (1/2” and 3/8”). It seems that there are two 1” holes in the splash aprons — right under the oak wood supports for the cab. I was able to raise up the cab and slide the front fender aprons under the cab. Loosened up the running boards and mounted both front fenders - and the headlight bar. My only issue now is that the holes for the Hood latches are about 1/2” off from the frame supports below them. Not sure why they would be this far off - but I guess I’ll wait to see where the hood sides line up.


        31A6E184-3537-48FC-8AFE-E4EF97EAA8D4.jpeg022C9F0B-3AC3-447B-BF92-CC5618558AE4.jpeg
        4ACF5C5D-B0EC-4D37-AA5A-CD73FF4D5616.jpeg
        07A81A9D-7020-43C0-B299-799077F7E622.jpeg

        Comment


        • #80
          ...

          The good, Bad and Ugly....
          Decided to start up the pickup while the tempature is 60 as opposed to 22 and a blizzard tomorrow. After the truck started up with out too much fan fare, I let it run about 20 seconds and shut it off. Made the decision to add water to my new radiator before going with the antifreeze. First leak was the lower radiator hose - discovered you have to tighten it all the way up to stop the leak. Continued with the second Gallon of water - when my Wife noted that the water was leaking out the rear of the engine. Well Crap.
          So, after a lot of mirror and flashlight work, it appears the water is leaking at the rear of the head gasket. At least I hope it is..... I guess I pull the head tomorrow and see what’s going on. The choke rod doesn’t stay hooked to the L choke lever either, so I’ll probably end up pulling it too. Truck is comming along
          . 9F647523-FD4E-49DC-9286-95D5ED0368E0.jpeg5962DD53-8C44-46EF-B8FD-91F8665AE50E.jpeg9A9913F1-E112-46ED-9E18-3B2F7C28F9AA.jpeg55606C31-36BF-4D98-ADD1-091C369D86AF.jpeg
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • JDupuis
            JDupuis commented
            Editing a comment
            Sure is pretty....and the truck too!

        • #81
          Head put up a real fight - wouldn't move, and I hated to start prying on it.... So at Mitch's direction, I re-installed the distributor & plugs, left all the head nuts off, and hit the starter rod.
          • I could feel the head moving up & down. Took a little prying with some brake spoons & the realization that the fricken head is heavy & must be lifted off all studs including the long-ass ones on the water outlet.....while leaning over my nice new painted fenders, straining the @*&^^#() out of my back.
          • SO: Piece of shit gasket. The gasket appears to be two copper sheets with a white/gray filling in between. This stuff ozzed out on the corner of the head at the rear. It left a nice channel about 1/8" wide between the water jacket and the outside world.
          • If you have followed the rest of the Post - you will now realize like I did that "all rebuilt engine" like the brakes and carburetor doesn't mean it is trouble free.

            But... Head and Block look great - put a straight edge on both. So, new "BEST" gasket and copper coat.
          • You can see the hole right between my two middle fingers.
            {"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tIMG_5126.JPG Views:\t1 Size:\t155.7 KB ID:\t130452","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"130452","data-size":"custom","height":"469","width":"352"}{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tIMG_5127.JPG Views:\t1 Size:\t319.8 KB ID:\t130453","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"130453","data-size":"custom","height":"460","width":"346"}
          • IMG_5113.JPGIMG_5116.JPG

          Comment


          • 30Pickemup
            30Pickemup commented
            Editing a comment
            I saw from one of the other posts that this was a Victor gasket

          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            So is this a fresh rebuilt motor that has never been run until you fired it up for 20 seconds dry? It looks to me that it has been run much more than that

            Looks like it's running rich too

        • #82
          Larry told me it had been started right after the re-build to insure it would run. Since the radiator I got with it had more holes than the PGA tour, I was thinking it hadn’t run very long.... It does look pretty sooty, doesn’t it. When I started it a few days ago, I choked it. I noticed the mixture was only 1/2 turn open.

          As I prepare for my weekly parts order, I also noticed my Bargin 30 Amp gage was sitting on 15 and not moving while I was cranking the engine. Is there a way to test before I buy a new one from snyders?

          Comment


          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            Bratton’s stopped selling the off shore amp-meters. Jeff said 6 out of 10 were returned. At the moment that’s all you can get, unless you look for a good original. Maybe you’ll luck out and get one of the 4 that somewhat work. Lol.
            You might want to consider putting in a quality Bergs so you know what you got. A restricted radiator is an engine killer

        • #83
          I agree on the radiator. I have a nice new pressurized $600 one in it now. Not sure what brand, although I know it isn’t
          a Walker.
          So If I can find an original AMP meter - I wonder how it will like my 60A Alternator... I do have my old AMP meter out of my 61 Corvette. Maybe a retro-fit.

          Comment


          • DaWizard
            DaWizard commented
            Editing a comment
            You could just get the 30amp meter that retro fits.

          • 30Pickemup
            30Pickemup commented
            Editing a comment
            Hey DaWizard.... not sure what you mean.... is there a 30amp that I don’t know about - that fits and works?

          • DaWizard
            DaWizard commented
            Editing a comment
            Sure is, I believe most vendors carry them.

            https://www.brattons.com/30-30-amp-meter.html

        • #84
          AMP meter problem solved! After talking with Tom at Snyders, he explained that the meters are pretty simple - and suggested I take it apart to see if something was rubbing. So, I discovered that the tin can
          back would pry off the chrome bezel, and sure enough, not much there but a pointer and two small bars - magnets that pull it when current passes through the wire. The needle was pretty stiff, so I worked it back
          and forth a bit, and it seemed to limber up. I then wired up an old heater fan motor with the gage in line, hit the ground and watched the meter peg! I also noticed that the "can" can rotate in the bezel and
          show that the AMPs are in discharge, when in fact, the needle is in the center spot. Just a note..... While Brattons lists their gages as "Out of stock" Snyders still sells them - and while not the best quality, he said they do work.
          Note in the picture below - the needle shows discharge with no load... the guts had turned inside the gage.
          IMG_5130.JPG

          Comment


          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            That's some nice info Thanks Brace

          • DaWizard
            DaWizard commented
            Editing a comment
            Just remember Brace, the script 30amp was only used with the Model T. Ford Script stopped somewhere in the early months of 1928.

        • #85
          Thanks Wiz... I’m still not too happy about the meter as I see it is out of alignment again. I’ll hook up
          the lights and get it running - then see how it works. May have to start a post on heaters now.
          internet is down at the house.... using mini I-pad with cellular.

          Comment


          • #86
            HEATERS? We do have a heater technical thread for your viewing pleasure. Feel free to add to it

            https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...n-your-model-a
            3 ~ Tudor's
            Henry Ford said
            "It's all nuts and bolts"


            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

            Comment


            • 30Pickemup
              30Pickemup commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks Mitch - the Heater blog was exactly what I was looking for. Not that I've decided which way to go, but it did cover all my ideas and then some....

            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              I'm working on a CP right now in the shop that has a real nice, effective and easy to install heater. I'll get some pics and post it to that tech thread soon

          • #87
            Brett spoke sometime back about someone who was going to make ammeters to Ford print specs but was afraid that a selling price of double what the junk offshore units are running would scare people off.

            Looks like if that guy came up to home plate he could hit a home run with a quality ammeter, everyone is tired of the junk coming in from overseas!

            Comment


            • 30Pickemup
              30Pickemup commented
              Editing a comment
              Even if they were twice as much - say $25.00 they would still beat loosing your $10 on crap and still having to pull the dash back off and replace. I'm a customer!

            • Jeff/Illinois
              Jeff/Illinois commented
              Editing a comment
              30Pickemup I agree. Thinking back and this was a couple years ago, seems like Brent was told they'd be more like 75 bucks and people wouldn't spring for that much.

              I said 'double' I need to be corrected! Still at 75 bucks a quality item like that would surely be worth the money. They can pose a fire hazard on the car if they go kapoot.

            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              I have bought a few nice good originals at Hershey for 35 each

            • Jeff/Illinois
              Jeff/Illinois commented
              Editing a comment
              That is good to have and at 35 bucks a good price

          • #88
            Putting on Tail lights - I'm assuming the hole in the bed was for a clamp to hold the wires to the tail light on the inside of the bed.
            I don't like the look of running the wires through the hole.
            Anyone got any pictures of theirs?
            Also, how the cross wires attach to the bottom of the bed?


            IMG_5184.JPG
            I had to drill the Passenger side of the bed for the block of wood and the tail light arm. Since they are held on by carriage bolts, the 1/4" holes are square. I showed my grand daughter
            the square hole, and she asked me how I did that. I told her I used a square bit. (at 13, she only bought it for a second..)
            IMG_5182.JPG
            I did finally show her the file I used to square off the round hole.

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              I'm pretty sure that the tail light wiring gets fastened to the rear fender skirt using a special clip. I don't believe it goes through that hole in the bed

          • #89
            Merry Christmas --- Cowl lights - Like the Wiz says... what could go wrong? I used my Snyders "Cowl Light Locate tool" to decide where to drill the holes.
            IMG_5194.JPG
            Two issues. 1. after you put the collar in the hole inside the cab... and then hit the punch bar to put a dimple in the cowl.... the bar magically disappears, and there
            is nothing left to do the other side. Ten minutes of searching in, under and around the car, and I find it nestled up beside the emergency brake lever on the transmission.
            2. I use my cone shaped drill bits to expand out the hole to the 3/4" for the cowl light arms.

            Then I take my nice new cowl lights out, and discover Ive located the hole about 1/8" too far from the cowl band. Oh...*&(&^%()_97@!.
            Check out the pictures and my new patented (Cowl Light arm gaskets). I cut these out of the tail light stand pads - since they aren't used on pickups.
            IMG_5189.JPGIMG_5191.JPGIMG_5190.JPG
            I think it came out pretty good. Now to wire up the turn signals, Head and tail lights.

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Nice recovery Brace. It's looking good

            • 30Pickemup
              30Pickemup commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks Mitch. Just another learning experience. No wonder all you guys build several of these..... I’m working on the turn signals now... should have the lights done soon. Jury still out on Wiz’s LED headlights. I think I’ll hook up what I got and see where we are. Seats should be done soon. Then rest of interior and door glass.

          • #90
            Seats are back ! Pickup up my seat back and cushion today - look pretty good. Wife and I climbed in and quickly decided we are going to need a trailer for any long trips.... Not a lot of room.

            I do have a question from my upolostier - “Did the original CCPU seats have the bead around the seat?”
            He has another set of springs to do, and wasn’t sure if the old seats had the bead shown in the bottom picture.
            anyone got any pictures of an original seat?
            990ABDCD-A3B6-4834-BC22-081513B50CD5.jpegB89C5419-D6A6-4E04-B3AE-AF3522028190.jpeg09066D08-7067-4FD1-8F94-FB6D1E4E464F.jpeg

            Comment


            • #91
              What a beautiful truck. Just as an FYI, perhaps you already know, originally besides the Headlamp Buckets and Radiator shell being black (previously posted), the Cowl bad was also black.

              Comment


              • 30Pickemup
                30Pickemup commented
                Editing a comment
                Yea - not much bling. Since my truck has been an assembly of various parts, I decided to go with what I liked - and I really like stainless. I will have a spare tire in each front fender, and I know it isn’t right - should only be the Drivers side.
                But... Nice front fenders are hard to find, and my supplier brought back a pair of delux welled fenders from Hershey that were too good to pass up. So it also cost me another tire, wheel, powder coat, and tire mount. (Oh, and a tube too)
                I plan to install a headliner, knowing that they didn’t have them. The back side of the cab has more craters than the moon - and I have done enough body work without starting on the inside.

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