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Installing new Running Board Mats onto original Running Boards

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  • Installing new Running Board Mats onto original Running Boards

    Does anyone else struggle with this task? I'd just about rather kiss my sister than to do this miserable task. Anyone can just glue them on, ....however gluing them while aligning them where the pyramids are straight in a row, and the moulded edges come out in the correct place is what creates the stress forme. Anyone here done it enough to give away their secrets of doing a job suitable for adjudication by the masses??


  • #2
    Brent, I used contact cement on both surfaces and placed 16” dowels across the running boards at about 6” intervals. Then I carefully placed the rubber on the dowels and aligned everything and removed the dowels one at a time from one end to the other, slowly easing the rubber down onto the running board. This was a job I only had to do once, and it was admittedly nerve-wracking, but it worked.


    • #3
      More details: they were 3/8” dowels selected for straightness. They held the rubber up enough that allowed accurate alignment before beginning the adhesion part.


      • tbirdtbird
        tbirdtbird commented
        Editing a comment
        like doing a formica counter top

      • Ray Horton
        Ray Horton commented
        Editing a comment
        Exactly Dave. That’s how I learned the trick.

    • #4
      Would two layers of butcher paper work?


      • #5
        I buy them with the matting on it LOL
        2 1930 Tudors

        Henry Ford said
        "It's all nuts and bolts"

        Mitch's Auto Service ctr


        • BRENT in 10-uh-C
          BRENT in 10-uh-C commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes, but when in Fine-Point, you would lose 60 out of 5000 points for "buying them with the matting on it". You receive no deduction because of an original '30 running board, ...and if you pay attention to the details in the edges & corners, they won't deduct for the reproduction rubber on the board.

        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          I know, just havin a little fun!

      • #6
        "Paper", as mentioned by Mr. Bill in item 4 above:

        The hands-on, on the job site, thousands of square feet of counter top and desk top materials I saw years ago professionally provided and adhered by professionals with contact cement was done by:

        A. First applying contact cement to the base metal, wood, or whatever surface.

        B. Second, cutting out a piece of inexpensive, thin brown wrapping paper, cut to a size larger than both the bottom base layer and the top finish layer.

        C. Third, place the larger brown paper on top of the base layer and try to carefully provide precise crease edges to form a visual pattern of the base layer below.

        D. Fourth, apply contact cement to the underside of the top finish layer.

        E. Carefully align the top finish layer on top of the outer edges of the formerly creased brown paper, and very carefully align the top layer with the base layer.

        F. Securely hold the top layer in place and gently slide out and remove the inner layer of brown paper.

        G. Roll the top layer with a roller to insure 100% contact between these two (2) glued surfaces.

        Hope this helps.


        • #7
          Geez, y'all make it sound so simple!!


          • #8
            Brent,..Ol buddy,
            I've never done it ,...but just thinking,...instead of doing it flat, how about hanging the boards with a slight angle back at the bottom,..just a thought.


            • #9
              Mr. Brent,

              One day I may have to cover my 1930 Model A Coupe running boards.

              I saw often where there is no such thing as a Second (2nd) chance after the upper contact-cemented surface slightly touches the lower contact-cemented surface.

              Never a bad idea to practice a few times with removing one (1) or more "inexpensive" pieces of thin brown paper ......"prior to" applying "any" contact cement.

              We always heard that "Practice Makes Perfect"; but who will reserve a few seconds for practice. LOL

              Hope this helps


              • #10
                I don't remember exactly when my dad started using old Venetian blinds for installing formica. They were about two inches wide and held the Formica off the cabinet. Of course back then they were all metal, no plastic. The one inch aluminum ones would work for the running boards.


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