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Pits around Exhaust Ports

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  • Pits around Exhaust Ports

    This is a block that is in for a complete rebuild. Note the pitting around the exhaust ports. In times past, I have used silicone bronze and tig welded the pits full, -then flycut the block in the mill. A costly procedure by the time all is done. Has anyone tried any of the high-temp JB Weld epoxy in applications such as this?? Thoughts or experiences??


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  • #2
    http://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1111.aspx

    Comment


    • BRENT in 10-uh-C
      BRENT in 10-uh-C commented
      Editing a comment
      Do you think that stuff will withstand the exhaust manifold temps??

    • CM2
      CM2 commented
      Editing a comment
      400 degrees..

  • #3
    Smooth it out with this and assemble with a copper gasket.. It will outlast the motor


    37A0AACE-FA99-4B56-B809-D9FE1F809731.jpeg
    2 1930 Tudors

    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      Looks like Mitch has come thru again never knew this stuff existed.

    • BILL WILLIAMSON
      BILL WILLIAMSON commented
      Editing a comment
      Minerva had pits, I used a small bead of High Temp Exhaust Sealant, along with the GOOD Copper gasket & it worked QUITE well. Before that, I had been plagued, with pesky leaks, especially at #4 & #1 exhaust ports.
      I KNOW it sounds like a "MECHANIC IN A TUBE", But that stuff works extremely well.
      Chief always said, "The easiest way is the BEST way, IF, it does the job PROPERLY"----
      Quiet Dad
      Last edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 02-13-2018, 09:34 PM.

    • BRENT in 10-uh-C
      BRENT in 10-uh-C commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes, this is the JB Weld hi-temp stuff the salesman was trying to sell me on. I may give it a try.

    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      If it works Brent , you can have Mitch do a demo at your seminar.

    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      I'll bring my specially designed butter knife

    • CM2
      CM2 commented
      Editing a comment
      when you apply the paste get it as close to finish as you can get before it sets,it doesnt 'dress' well after it hardens.I used the caterpillar product,we smeared it on and assembled,let it squeeze out to where it needed to be.You don't want that look...

    • BRENT in 10-uh-C
      BRENT in 10-uh-C commented
      Editing a comment
      My Fastenal rep. brought this same stuff by the shop last year trying to peddle it to me. It says it is machineable. I wonder if it would be best if I got it close and maybe smeared it a tad "proud" to allow for any shrinkage as it dries, -and then once cured just set it up in the Mill and flycut the entire surface again.

      The other thing I am trying to figure out is how I could machine the block for installing a valve seat for the manifold to seat against. All my seat cutters are piloted off of the valve guide, so I would need to figure out how to hold the cutter. Maybe an expandable mandrel chucked into a collet in the Mill that would expand inside of the cutter? Probably would not be that rigid, but at slow speeds it may work. Thoughts??

  • #4
    Brent, you could use one of these with an insert tool.

    https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...UaAmLWEALw_wcB
    VFF Recruiter

    "We do not stop playing because we grow old;
    We grow old because we stop playing ...
    NEVER Be The First To Get Old!" Pilfered from the MAFC SA Newsletter

    I JUST CAN'T FIX STUPID!!

    "Why so Serious?"

    Comment


    • #5
      Originally posted by DaWizard View Post
      Brent, you could use one of these with an insert tool.

      https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...UaAmLWEALw_wcB
      Thanks. I have a Bridgeport boring head that works pretty well however the issue for me would be hitting the exact bore size for the seat, and I'm not real sure how you could do that and measure it as you were going.

      When installing a valve seat, I generally figure we only have a 0.0015-0.002 undersized window to hit. It may not be that big of a deal since the manifold should keep it from falling out if we went a little larger, but on my valve seat cutters, they are specifically made for the seat we are going to install so that I can chill the seat and warm the block, and with a little bit of FluidSeal added, they drive right in. I'm afraid trying to bore without a fixed cutter. Are you thinking this would not be a big deal??

      Comment


      • #6
        With an adjustable head like that I have been able to hold .001 size over multiple holes. I find it is all in setup. The largest drawback is depth, because I find the hard stops on the Bridgeport lacking a bit of substance and your builtin arm strength, it can be iffy. But given the proper setup you should be able to hold the holes to within ±.001.

        Brent, you need to stop thinking about the valve seat cutter, and think like a machinist. It is a simple boring bar attachment, but instead of using a lathe and fixed tool, you use the mill and moving tool.
        Last edited by DaWizard; 02-14-2018, 01:24 PM.
        VFF Recruiter

        "We do not stop playing because we grow old;
        We grow old because we stop playing ...
        NEVER Be The First To Get Old!" Pilfered from the MAFC SA Newsletter

        I JUST CAN'T FIX STUPID!!

        "Why so Serious?"

        Comment


        • #7
          Brent you could use a boring head on the bridgeport, or even a boring bar with a adjustable tool bit. You measure the hole and then adjust the tool bit out with a indicator on the cutting tip of the insert to get what you want. Of course it all depends on how much you are removing to know what size you are going to get.

          Comment


          • #8
            Id be leery boring it out for a sleeve..one for the expense,two,the risk,the water jacket is notorious for inconsistencies,bore into it and press a sleeve? dicey.. ....doubtful that area of the block gets anywhere near 300 degrees, a quality epoxy based compound that is proven to be machinable oughta do the trick and save on the labor. How savvy is your customer? maybe run the two solutions by him and let him pick..

            Comment


            • #9
              Originally posted by CM2 View Post
              Id be leery boring it out for a sleeve..one for the expense,two,the risk,the water jacket is notorious for inconsistencies,bore into it and press a sleeve? dicey.. ....doubtful that area of the block gets anywhere near 300 degrees, a quality epoxy based compound that is proven to be machinable oughta do the trick and save on the labor. How savvy is your customer? maybe run the two solutions by him and let him pick..
              I agree, and if the filler is layed on and scraped flat with a straight edge, I doubt the shrinkage would be enough to worry about where the copper gasket wouldn't work just fine.

              Comment


              • Mitch
                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                Agree

            • #10
              I need a 5 gallon bucket of that to dip my truck!!

              Comment


              • CM2
                CM2 commented
                Editing a comment
                reckon youve filled a five gallon bucket already pilgrim

              • Beauford
                Beauford commented
                Editing a comment
                HAHAHAHA! Got me there Johnny!! and then some....

              • CM2
                CM2 commented
                Editing a comment
                "Don't that make your brown eye blue"

              • Beauford
                Beauford commented
                Editing a comment
                John, you are a witty fella! LOL

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