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  • Won't be long

    Getting there...
    Picked up some oxy and acc tanks today, I have a new set of hoses and gauges. Have sand blaster, paint sprayer etc.
    Contacted a paver to asphalt the barn floor which is dirt at the moment. Once insulated I will have to decide on what type of heat I want. Right now I am leaning toward wood stove. I have lots and lots of hard wood on my property.

    I found some 4' T8 lights to hang, just have to wire them in which is not an issue. It has been 40 yrs in the making but finally coming together.
    Make sure all you pro's stick around, I am going to need a lot of advice as I move ahead on this ole gal.

  • #2
    I love wood heat. It's nice and toasty to stand by the stove on a cold day, and since you have lots of wood, it's cheap.
    I've never heard of asphalt inside a building, and wonder why it isn't cement?
    Can't use jack stands on tar unless you have plywood under them, and the same for a floor jack.

    Comment


    • #3
      Be sure to get a vapor barrier down. I would recommend concrete also
      jmodela.coffeecup

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
        I love wood heat. It's nice and toasty to stand by the stove on a cold day, and since you have lots of wood, it's cheap.
        I've never heard of asphalt inside a building, and wonder why it isn't cement?
        Can't use jack stands on tar unless you have plywood under them, and the same for a floor jack.
        Cost, $1500 to do a 24x36 area, Vs $5k in cement. I would love to have cement, not in the budget. Yes I will have to protect the asphalt with a sheet of plywood. For the diff in $$ I will buy a sheet of 3/8 and replace when necessary.

        Comment


        • #5
          Recommend LED lights. You will be amazed how many extra lumens, and a much brighter, surrounds you get. Cheaper to run too.

          Larry Jenkins
          ____________________
          Good enough.. Isn't.

          Comment


          • BNCHIEF
            BNCHIEF commented
            Editing a comment
            x2

        • #6
          Check Craigslist and carpet stores for old free carpet. I layed down plastic, then 3/4" plywood, then free carpet to make a nice floor in my Roundtop shelter.

          I also layed down free carpet in my attached garage with my Model A's, and it sure makes it much nicer to get under the cars.

          Comment


          • #7
            See if your paving contractor will pave it in 'lifts'...run a leveling course,compact it,then run a finish course.. shoot for 2" lifts 2 of them for a total of four inches..it will cost a bit more,but for a shop floor the added compaction this affords is worth it.

            Comment


            • #8
              how about concrete in a limited area under a car for one of the bays, then asphalt everywhere else

              Comment


              • Mitch
                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                That's a good idea

            • #9
              wood stove
              I have the furnace addon from Tractor Supply. Blows me out of my 24x24.

              Comment


              • #10
                Definately agree with buying LED lights. No bulbs or ballests to change, much brighter and uses less electricity. A mid range LED shop light will last many years. Replaced my flourescent lights with LED's two years ago and have no regrets in doing so. They even work great when it is cold in the shop. Florescents are nearly useless when it is cold. Rod
                At some point in time standardization was a creative idea.

                Comment


                • #11
                  I agree on all points - LED lights for sure - would not consider florescents even if they were free.

                  Asphalt is better than dirt but do not put jackstands or jacks on them. ASlphalt also gets eaten by almost every solvent (brake cleaner, carb cleaner, gasoline, engine oil, ATF, coolant after awhile) I'm with whoever said pour a small concrete pad for the car area and asphalt everywhere else.

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    Originally posted by SeaSlugs View Post
                    I agree on all points - LED lights for sure - would not consider florescents even if they were free.

                    Asphalt is better than dirt but do not put jackstands or jacks on them. ASlphalt also gets eaten by almost every solvent (brake cleaner, carb cleaner, gasoline, engine oil, ATF, coolant after awhile) I'm with whoever said pour a small concrete pad for the car area and asphalt everywhere else.
                    Good point, once gas or oil gets on asphalt it's gooey forever. I have a couple spots like that on my driveway. I agree with the idea of at least one working stall with concrete, then maybe sand or pea rock on the rest until you can afford to cement it. For sure lay down plastic, as Jim mentioned, to keep ground moisture to a minimum.

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      Here in Canada I believe asphalt on a garage floor is a Home Insurance Issue . Its a fire hazzard when combined with the right circumstances. I seen a garage floor done with concrete patio blocks 2ft square levelled and stabilized with compacted sand, 8 or 9 years old and no cracks.

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        Something sounds way off here.The last time I bought mix it was $84.per ton.I've been told it is close to double that now,although I have not checked.Your floor will take about 28 ton @ 3 inches thick of 3/4 binder.With the size of your building it will be all hand work,not laid down through a spreader.Keep your eyes open with pavers,some are pretty clever on pricing.It sounds like you may have gotten a price from a guy that said,$1500.plus materials.Plus,you will hear,groundwork,grading,and prep extra.

                        Comment


                        • JDupuis
                          JDupuis commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Welcome to the VFF Keith.

                        • DaWizard
                          DaWizard commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Hey Keith True, WELCOME to the VFF!!

                      • #15
                        ^^^Keith knows his A/C^^^ ...especially the part about 'crafty' contractors....welcome sir to the VFF

                        Comment


                        • #16
                          One thing, for a shop asphalt will greatly diminish the real estate value of your shop compared to concrete, plus I think you will regret it.

                          Comment


                          • #17
                            Actually,I was just thinking something didn't sound right about the tonnage I came up with either.I had just rattled it out roughly in my head,and figured the tonnage with MY garage size,not yours.Mine is 30X42.Yours should use about 17 ton or so,not the 28 that I said.You are going to need binder,NOT top.Top is really just a sand mix for finish.It is for moving traffic.Anything heavy will sink down in it unless it is moved around regularly.

                            Comment


                            • #18
                              A neighbor and I poured this,2 yds...did one yd one weekend,the other the next,used a mixer cart,it was 160 a yard all in...rather a sharp stick in the eye than pour concrete..If you hire a couple of the guys who hang out at the home depot parking lot you wont have to work that hard..

                              Comment


                              • BNCHIEF
                                BNCHIEF commented
                                Editing a comment
                                I have poured a lot of concrete and I only do it for me, I would get several bids and go from there. For me concrete is the first thing you do before putting up a building.

                            • #19
                              Keith Welcome
                              2 1930 Tudors

                              Henry Ford said
                              "It's all nuts and bolts"


                              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                              Comment


                              • #20
                                I agree that concrete before the building goes up is the easiest way to do it. I wish I had some poured back in 77 before I had a 40 x 80 pole barn erected.

                                Keith, I never heard of cement being sold by the ton, only by the cubic yard. How many tons per cubic yard?

                                Comment


                                • BNCHIEF
                                  BNCHIEF commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  Cubic yard is all i have ever seen or heard bid.

                              • #21
                                Thanks Mitch.I'm a computer idiot so I don't get on too many sites.It takes me a while to study on one before I try to sign on.I'm really only on the A one,yesterdays tractors,and an antique mini bike forum.Concrete is going to run you about $2000.for materials,not including whatever you would like in it.(wire,rebar,fiberglass,etc)That's 16 yards,6 inches thick,@$128,per yard.You can adjust that down for 4 inches.That was last weeks price for this area.We're about 30 miles apart,but both bituminous and concrete would come from the same outfits.I have hauled and placed thousands of tons of both mix and binder for Iafolla industries years ago.I hauled out of the little mix plant they set up in Milton Mills that they later sold to Pike.I can't be around top much anymore.The smell makes me sick now.Getting help to place concrete here is a real problem.The guys that do flatwork are just buried.I've always just done my own.It takes just a little bit of know-how,and a lot of muscle and stamina.

                                Comment


                                • #22
                                  Tom,it is the paving materials that I mean are sold by the ton.(binder,top) Concrete is sold by the yard here,just like anywhere else.I know a lot has changed in the bituminous industry,but when I was around it both top and binder weighed in at about 3900.per yard.Concrete you buy in either 3000 or 4000 pound mix.You do NOT need 4000 for a floor.The hot mix used to drop into the truck at 410 degrees,now it comes out positively cold,at 360 or so.Try placing that on a foam or vapor barrier.(I tried)The fumes from the melting plastic and foam will roll the eyes up in your head.

                                  Comment


                                  • #23
                                    I know everyone raves about LED lights, I'll share my recent experience.
                                    First they are crazy expensive.
                                    Second, I just had to re-lamp all the 4' T8s in the paint booth. That is 40 tubes. Lowe's did not have enough fluorescent tubes, so I was forced to get a box of LEDs. As for the fluorescents, I only use 6500K tubes for the brightest light possible, and they are BRIGHT, which is what you need in a paint booth. I honestly cannot tell the difference from those to the LEDs. With the white walls, it is blinding in there

                                    So I would also paint the walls white no matter what kind of bulbs you choose, it helps

                                    Your mileage may vary

                                    Comment


                                    • BNCHIEF
                                      BNCHIEF commented
                                      Editing a comment
                                      Tbird you are right on expensive but when a ballast goes out replace them then and the cost at that time is a lot less. I really like the single pin lamps myself.

                                  • #24
                                    Originally posted by Keith True View Post
                                    Thanks Mitch.I'm a computer idiot so I don't get on too many sites.It takes me a while to study on one before I try to sign on.I'm really only on the A one,yesterdays tractors,and an antique mini bike forum.
                                    Keith as I tell everyone if you need any assistance on navigating the VFF just contact me. I'm always around to help and it's no bother at all. You're expertise and input is a great addition to this group and that will help so many others. Enjoy the place
                                    2 1930 Tudors

                                    Henry Ford said
                                    "It's all nuts and bolts"


                                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                                    Comment


                                    • #25
                                      Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post
                                      how about concrete in a limited area under a car for one of the bays, then asphalt everywhere else
                                      I can do that, mix the concrete myself and save some $$.
                                      Thanks for the suggestion.

                                      Comment


                                      • BNCHIEF
                                        BNCHIEF commented
                                        Editing a comment
                                        Ed in a pole building my neighbor has we did that poured a large pad, but where he was going to just park things like a trailer and tractor we put down white ground concrete rock so in the future he wanted to he could take up the rock and concrete. Whatever you do good luck.

                                      • tbirdtbird
                                        tbirdtbird commented
                                        Editing a comment
                                        rent a mixer and pay off a buddy in beer and have at it

                                        any possibility of ever installing a lift? if so re-consider a jobber poured floor in that one bay

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