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  • Headlight Can / switch won’t close

    I thought it would be easier to install the new Snyders’s harness into the “old” switch can before I re-install the steering column. I’ve got everything lined up, but I can’t get the “can” to close enough to rotate the two dots into the other case.
    Is there a chance that the new harness switch plate is too thick? I measure it at about 5/16”. I hate to grind it or the
    case halves down.
    Am I missing something?
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 3 photos.

  • #2
    You are on the right track.
    measure the thickness of the old harness, compared to the new one.
    I've had to file down a new wire harness in the past, so that the switch would work. Good Luck.
    Jeff
    Twiss Collector Car Parts

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      I never had to file the Brattons one.

    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      I got mine from Tyree Harris and his was the same as an original.

    • BAAP
      BAAP commented
      Editing a comment
      We just found out the other day that the main supplier of the contact disk went out of business and our wiring company found a new source, but this new source is thicker. Our wining supplier is working on a new source that is correct thickness.

  • #3
    I don’t have the old one.... . But I’m going to look it over tomorrow. I guess I could shave some of the metal off
    the edge of the tin can... (the half where the harness exits). I’ll sleep on it.
    thanks for the post.

    Comment


    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      You might be able to get just the plate from Tyree Harris, there are also new housings that fit right as well.

  • #4
    Thanks BNCHIEF. Actually, I had purchased a new can - and after reading (at that other Forum) about how poorly they fit.. I sent it back and searched for an original. By plate...do you mean the ring with all the spades for the wires?

    Comment


    • #5
      Yes the plate also Brattons has the new can that fits like the originals, some of the others are junk, I know but Mitch is spot on about the one Brattons sells. Also put a little dielectric grease on it to make it turn easier as well, I also use a socket extension and bench test the assembly before putting it back on. There is also a new horn rod tube plate made that is longer than the original and goes up thru the box to keep steering gear oil from getting in to the light switch. Plus the bolts Mitch told you about. By the way I am from central kansas so we are not far from each other.

      Comment


      • #6
        And now that I think about it... I may have acquired the Snyders harness from one of my fellow Model Aers... While it
        was new in an unopened bag, no telling how old it is....

        Comment


        • BNCHIEF
          BNCHIEF commented
          Editing a comment
          Things evolve but my plate from tyree was exactly the same dimensions as an original, you can find his info in the vendor list section of the forum, if you have questions pm me and we can talk on the phone if you wish. Always happy to help.

      • #7
        Whatever direction you go, just don’t alter your original light switch body. We can comment on todays experiences with repo parts, compared to stuff available from years gone by. I would buy a new harness and not screw around with that one
        4~ Tudor's
        1~ Coupe

        Henry Ford said,
        "It's all nuts and bolts"


        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

        Comment


        • #8
          Mitch I have not used a Brattens harness but I am sure it is top notch like the other stuff I get from them, new switch body and harness could save time money and headaches as well.

          Comment


          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            Since he has an original switch i would use that

        • #9
          I always install the switch assy to the collumn and make sure that operates fine, before routing it throughout the car. This way if there are issues you don’t have to de-route the harness from back to front. Make sure the battery is disconnected when messing with it., since it’s always hot with the key off.
          4~ Tudor's
          1~ Coupe

          Henry Ford said,
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

          Comment


          • BNCHIEF
            BNCHIEF commented
            Editing a comment
            That is why I said I bench tested to make sure it works smooth and contacts are working, like you said test it before running the wires thru the car, I always check light sockets and other electrical for shorts as well as good grounds. Especially on a freshly painted car.

        • #10
          Best solution is use an original switch housing and cover; they are plentiful.
          Also use an original bakelite contact plate on your harness, even if you have to transfer an original contact plate to a new repro harness, which I also have done.

          I just cannot understand the appeal of buying new expensive ill-fitting repro parts, and then also having to buy the interfacing ill fitting repro parts which will work with them, but none of them work as a system with original Ford parts! (deck lids, rumble hinges, headlamp sockets and connectors, light switch housings and harnesses, etc.)

          Comment


          • #11
            Two questions:
            1. Does the Headlight switch lever on top of the steering wheel - point up or down?
            2. I checked Brattons Catalog - I didn’t see just the ring for the harness for sale - just the whole 20390 harness.
            I like the idea of the turn signals maybe I go whole hog on that....

            Comment


            • #12
              points down

              Comment


              • #13
                IIRC the plastic piece that carries the contacts should be .310 thick. I bought one from Berts, might be the same manufacture as the one from Brattons. The plastic was .335 thick and the some of the brass contacts were above flush with the plastic.Even after bringing the thickness down to .310 and filing the contacts flush I still couldn't rotate the switch. I was using the new switch housing from Brattons. I called Steve at Berts. He had the same parts and confirmed the problem. His solution, very carefully belt sand the open end of the bottom parts. Works like a charm! Using dielectric grease helps too. Since you have an original switch housing, you may need to reduce the thickness of the plastic part. I did it carefully, clamped to a fixture block on my Bridgeport.
                Last edited by slammin; 02-11-2018, 04:35 PM.

                Comment


                • #14
                  Good news - I just couldn’t convince my self that I just wasn’t pushing hard enough on the two can half’s ... so I positioned a clamp over the can - and It still wouldn’t close.

                  Ok, took a silver sharpie and made a 1/16” mark around the top of the plate (next to the wires). I have a mini angle
                  grinder with a flapper wheel on it. After about three trips around it... taking it down .004 and filing it flat with a
                  flat file. I did a test fit - off the column... and it slid right together.

                  Thanks for your suggestions. I have to find some di-lecric grease now, and I can continue to the next issue.
                  Brace
                  PS: I sealed the two bolts too

                  Comment


                  • BNCHIEF
                    BNCHIEF commented
                    Editing a comment
                    They have small tubes or packets of it at auto supply houses.

                • #15
                  Thanks slammin and BNCHIEF..... I’ll hit the Autozone tomorrow - assemble and see how it works.

                  Comment


                • #16
                  Thanks Mitch. Bought a packet for $1.49... sales guy didn’t point this one out. (Oops ... went to O’Reilley’s )
                  they also don’t stock 15w 40 oil. Had to settle for 10w40w. Oh well...

                  Comment


                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Walmart has Rotella 15w40 for a good price

                • #17
                  Originally posted by BAAP View Post
                  We just found out the other day that the main supplier of the contact disk went out of business and our wiring company found a new source, but this new source is thicker. Our wining supplier is working on a new source that is correct thickness.
                  Jeff,
                  Hopefully once it gets sorted out you can let us all know.

                  Thanks for the info!
                  4~ Tudor's
                  1~ Coupe

                  Henry Ford said,
                  "It's all nuts and bolts"


                  Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                  Comment


                  • #18
                    Good to know it wasn’t just me. I was amazed that just about 1/16” made all the difference in the world. Thanks for the info.

                    Comment

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