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  • Is this common....

    Took the Chassis aka "Rusty" down the road for a spin. Getting some smoke where new exhaust clamps to manifold. Paint burn off? I'm just so paranoid about hurting a fresh engine.

  • #2
    Probably nothing to worry about. What is coming out of the other end ?

    Comment


    • #3
      No smoke out the tail pipe...just exhaust.

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      • #4
        Also with a new rebuild and radiator I am reading 190 degrees on temp gauge. Granite I am just going a block and back. I do have a 160 therm installed. Sorry....just new to this.

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        • #5
          If it's a fresh rebuild the motor can be tight which is nominal.
          Drive it and enjoy

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          • #6
            Keep an eye on it. And add me to the list of new engine it a tight engine and a tight engine will run hotter for a little while.

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            • #7
              what are the thoughts of a newly rebuilt Babbitt motor VS a newly rebuilt Insert motor and operating temps? assuming they are both rebuilt to the same piston to wall specs etc...
              3 ~ Tudor's
              Henry Ford said
              "It's all nuts and bolts"


              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

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              • #8
                Beaford, how hard is it to turn over with the crank?
                I have seen ring gaps set too tight that would create a LOT of drag
                get some MMO Marvel Mystery oil in the tank.....lube things up a little
                For us, it is key at break-in

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                • #9
                  I'm sorry, it was 160 driving it down the road and when it idles in the garage it got to 190 and never higher. Yes, she is tight to crank. Not saying I can't crank it but I sure is heck could not start it. I have a A'er up the street and have him look at the timing / re-time. I just need a body on this thing so I can get it legal and brake him in!

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                  • #10
                    where we come from tight to hand crank is too tight

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                    • #11
                      So added a little water wetter (just running pure water) and put a thermometer in NEW radiator. I had it idling for about 20 minutes with slight throttle. I got a reading of 180 both at radiator and temp gauge. I would have driven it but it's raining and I have no body as of yet. Also, I notice when you shut the engine off the temp rises a bunch. Is that normal? I am also considering running it without a 160 therm installed. Thoughts?

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                      • #12
                        Beauford, be double, triple sure of your timing. It is not hard but very different from what people are used to today. Understanding the whole deal with the play (lash) in the drive gear mesh is key to getting it right. In this case we call it backlash. The play or lash in one direction is meaningless; in the other direction it will make or break you. I believe a timing thread is on the way here. Maybe ***** will post his method.

                        Get any Marvel Mystery oil in the gas yet? I am still concerned that your motor is tight; tight rings or cyl-wall clearance. I have seen (and fixed) mega troubles caused by tight rings. I have torn down tight motors only to find ring gaps at .006. That is WAAAAAAY too tight, those rings expand with heat and are gonna cause a helluva lot of friction. I have actually seen tight rings fully lock a motor when hot. Got an IR (infraRed) temp gun? Harbor freight has them. You squeeze the trigger, and a red laser dot transmits to the part you want the temp of, and you get a digital readout on the screen. Best thing invented since sliced bread. If u got one, shoot the cylinder walls on the driver's side, Henry was nice enough to put them right out there just for us 90 years later ! The water jacket does not engulf the entire cylinder, so you can get an idea of what is truly going on. Shooting the cylinder head will not get you where you want to go, the temps up there have evened out somewhat.
                        Shoot the 4 walls when u first start up, then at 5 min intervals, and report them back so we can look at them. When we break in a motor on the stand, the temp gun never leaves our hands.

                        As far as ***** goes, as you have already noticed, he has quite a following. He is the man. If he says it, it is. For a ton of reasons he quit for a while, but we are all sure pleased he elected to join up here.
                        Last edited by tbirdtbird; 05-11-2017, 08:22 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks as usual Tbird! I do have one of those HF guns and will give my results Monday (I have to work all weekend) I put a little MMO in the crankcase. I have a small gallon tank running the chassis right now so dont know how well it would do. I can try if you recommend?

                          I'm still not 100% on "backlash" as far as the meaning. I have timed it according to Les and tried Nu-Rex tool. I have all new components. I noticed yesterday the GAV was not working as just the top was coming untreaded making me think I was adjusting it. I put loc tite on the rod knob and loosened the main jet nut a bit as the knob is hard to turn. Might have carb issues as well. Hey, at least I got the brakes to "stop on a dime"

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                          • #14
                            I would put about a shotglass worth of MMO in that gallon tank.
                            I am not personally familiar with the NuRex deal.
                            My explanation of timing is not the best, we are holding out for the master right now. Hang in there!

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                            • #15
                              NuRex is a fast and easy way to set the timing. I do check it with a test light also just for the fun of doing it the old way. The hard part is getting the timing pin on the dimple.

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                              • #16
                                Beauford, PM sent

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                                • #17
                                  Thanks for the time typing the above *****! Much better understanding now.

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                                  • #18
                                    I also like to add a bit of oil to a tank of gas, especially with a fresh rebuild or overhaul. I always try to buy the good gas without the corn crap in it, then add 4 ounces of MMO to 10 gallons of gas. I also do this for all my old cars and small engines. I may have accidentally double dosed my can of 2 cycle mix, because my leaf blower is really smoky now, but that's better than what my friend's wife did to their leaf blower..........put in straight gas with no oil, and trashed the engine.

                                    On a fresh engine I also like to run the engine through several heat/cool cycles just setting in the driveway. This gives all the moving parts a chance to wear in slightly without a load on them, plus if something was to go wrong, you are home and don't need to call for a tow. During these heat/cool cycles I check the head torque several times. I only use the copper clad gaskets and spray both sides with Copper Coat.

                                    My 28 went through some serious overheats due to junk in the rear of the engine, which eventually moved into the radiator and plugged some tubes. A couple years ago I removed the head, thinking the gasket must be bad after going through so many overheats. I actually cleaned it up, sprayed both sides with Copper Coat, and used it again, and it's doing fine.

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                                    • #19
                                      Good to see ya here, Tom!! Yup...basically since its just a chassis I have been running in the drive way. I'm using a small gallon tank until I figure out my body options. It's a fresh rebuild an new rad so no junk. I'm going to take out thermostat Monday and look at temps but before that go over timing again. I dont like the 190 degree range idling. New motor so just scared.

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