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'28 Frame and early engine mount

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  • '28 Frame and early engine mount

    I am building up another A out of bits and pieces I have laying around. Originality is not important but a good driving car is. The chassis I have is an early one where the engine is bolted direct to the front X member. Does this configuration cause vibrations to be transmitted through the car? If the answer is No, why did Henry change? Cracking? If it is worth the effort to change, what is the best way to do so? Do I use the later type yolk or make a bracket to bolt onto the front of the motor and use a modern style rubber mount. I have a couple here (with Ford logo on them) that are round, 2 3/4" diameter and 1 1/4" thick. If I leave it as is, what are the chances of the X member cracking again (I've just drilled at the end of a couple of cracks and welded them) Reinforce the crack prone area?
    I see no point reinventing the wheel when someone else has probably already solved the problems I am likely to encounter. Your input will be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    I hate to see an early frame modified...but, the service bulletins show how to do it.


    • Greynomad
      Greynomad commented
      Editing a comment
      I just bought a set of those - got a page number? (I'm lazy)

  • #3
    I have a early '28 with a counter-balanced crank. There is a little vibration. My engine builder recommended cutting the x mounts and installing yoke but I refuse to cut the mounting flange off. Keeping something real on this car...LOL


    • #4
      Changing a timing gear on an engine with a solid front motor mount is a lot more removing the rear mount bolts to lift the engine far enough for the large gear to clear the cross member.

      Maybe less vibration but I suspect it was in servicing / replacing that large timing gear that 'finished' that cross member design.

      Just my $.02,


      • #5
        I have a transitional frame that should have had the mount on the front cross member, but was torched off sometime in it's lifetime. Wana trade frames? It might take a while, the car is still running on it.

        Oh crap, I just noticed where you are at....never mind
        Last edited by DaWizard; 02-03-2018, 10:33 PM.
        You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


        • Greynomad
          Greynomad commented
          Editing a comment
          Just come and get it. Bring yours with you!

      • #6
        Tom posted this in our tech area. Most value his opinions, i know i do
        3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
        Henry Ford said,
        "It's all nuts and bolts"
        "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

        Mitch's Auto Service ctr


        • #7
          I suspect cracking was the main reason for the change to the yoke and spring.
          My crossmember also has a short crack in the curved area by the right front mounting bolt.
          I'll weld it up the next time the engine is out.


          • #8
            Gonna do as they describe in the bulletins. Thanks everyone.


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