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Evaluations of E-Z Steer and Mel Gross's F-100 Steering box

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  • Evaluations of E-Z Steer and Mel Gross's F-100 Steering box

    Comments appreciated of any pros and cons regarding the E-Z Steer unit and Mel Gross's F-100 steering unit for Model A's. Thank you!

  • #2
    I would first drive a Model A with a correctly restored steering and see how it feels. My friend restored his steering box, and it made a world of difference in ease for driving the car. If that would still feel like too much effort, then I'd try the shorter pitman arm.


    • #3
      Got can set one up yourself if your handy,they cut the sector shaft square and notch it for the pitman arm,extend the steering shaft by welding a model A one on the end and solder in an oil baffle tube on the steering shaft end plate..find a good core,kits are 99 bucks,the sector shaft might cost 100 bucks to get cut at the machine shop.
      the rest is easy


      • #4
        I have heard good reports on the F100 box, and very poor reports on the ezsteer. I bought a sedan with the f100 box and did not like it, as it takes a lot more turning of the wheel to steer the car. That is why it takes less effort. I have a shortened pitman arm on the tudor with the original 7 tooth box, and it steers just fine, and much better than my 36 ford did, which I sold.
        Eastern Connecticut


        • #5
          Hey Gary D, WELCOME to the VFF!!
          You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


          • #6
            The Ez-Steer made by John Kovar’s is a genuine POS. There are tons of reports that substiant that on other forums. In addition to my first hand experience, both Randy Gross and Dave Delmue (who both make the F100 conversions) have verified design flaws in the Ez-Steer unit. If you want to try one out for your self, I will send you one real cheap. As to the F100 conversions, I love it!
            Last edited by CarlG; 02-01-2018, 03:25 PM. Reason: Can't type
            Alaskan A's
            Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
            Model A Ford Club of America
            Model A Restorers Club
            Antique Automobile Club of America
            Mullins Owners Club


            • #7
              I am installing Randy's F100 kit in my Briggs. I have both short and long pitman arms, thinking about using the long to help with the ratio. I will take pics and post on my build thread as I get to that point.


              • CarlG
                CarlG commented
                Editing a comment
                Just from my own experience, go ahead and install the short Pittman arm while you are at it.

              • dmdeaton
                dmdeaton commented
                Editing a comment
                I can do that, easy either way

            • #8
              I, also, just finished putting the F-100 conversion in my Tudor. I should have everything buttoned up tomorrow. I won't be able to give a real world review, since my stock box was worn and sloppy, so anything will be better that what I had. I'll decide on the pitman arm later
              Has it ever occurred to you that the sole purpose for your existence might be to serve as a warning to others?


              • #9
                I've installed three of the F-100 units from Mel and Randy Gross. Was able to compare them to a professionally built 2-tooth A box. I might add that I have used the short pitman as well as the stocker. Hands down, the F-100 is the better choice, especially if you drive them a lot.


                • #10
                  Radial tires make a night and day difference, rebuilt my steering box on my 30 tudor and put on radials drove like you added power steering, and an even better steering box can't hurt either.


                  • #11
                    I second the 19" radial tires. I can take my hands off the wheel and she goes straight as an arrow.


                    • #12
                      Gary, good to see you here. I bought the F100 years ago and it works great. You can check it out at our Dust-Off in April.


                      • #13
                        Just drove my Tudor with the F-100 box. What a dream. Nice and tight and has a much lighter feel. I imagine it would be like power steering with the short pitman. I'll stick with the stocker, for now. Additionally, thanks to DaWizard for the rear main leak fix. I had to take up the bearing one shim and now it's as tight as a frog's ass. No puddle. While under the car, I did notice that the hole in the front crossmember for the motor mount is all wallered out. It's about 3/4 or 7/8 inch. I guess I know what the next project is
                        Has it ever occurred to you that the sole purpose for your existence might be to serve as a warning to others?


                        • Mitch
                          Mitch commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Great news Carl

                        • DaWizard
                          DaWizard commented
                          Editing a comment
                          You are more than welcome Carl. If there is anything else I can do to help, just let me know.

                        • Dennis
                          Dennis commented
                          Editing a comment
                          There was a bronze washer with a step on one side to fit in that hole. I'm not sure what the consensus is on that lately, but I keep the bronze washer in place to keep the front of the engine aligned as it was when built.

                      • #14
                        It should have that bronze washer to prevent that hole from wallering out imo mine does it was there for a reason.


                        • #15
                          Check the Judging Standards Bible, as I recall that brass step washer/bushing was substituded with a flat washer sometime in 1929 to allow the front of the engine to have some movement. My copy of the JS is up north in Vt and we are at the FL house so I can,t give you the exact date of change or the diameter of the washer. Our A is a 1930 and had a little more vibration than I thought normal and I found that it had that brass step bushing under the front cross member. I removed the brass bushing and installed the proper flat washer and it reduced the felt vibration a significant amount. Make sure to only tighten the nut on the bottom enough to get the cotter pin in.


                          • Mitch
                            Mitch commented
                            Editing a comment
                            I believe that is listed in the Service Bulletins also. That being said i still used the brass washer, i like the concept of it.

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