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Thought leak was gone..

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  • Thought leak was gone..

    So took "Rusty" out for a high speed drive to see how he's feeling! That was about 4 hours ago. I went out and checked under the chassis where I have not re-installed dust shield as I like to monitor for any leaks before I mount my body in a few weeks. There is a little oil coming off the rear main bolt/castle nut. No need to worry or is there something I can do? I know not a big deal but what the hell do I know...

  • #2
    Beauford, take 10 gallons of oil and start heading for Mitch's house !!
    Model A's and of course the famous AA's

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      He might need a 55 gal drum

  • #3
    You only wish yours changed its self! Leaves me more time to deal with shit vendors! PS: there is a shortage nation wide on A fenders and don't buy anything on Lebron's sale page. They will instruct you that the expensive top you purchased was sold already and they forgot to take it off the page but will gladly sell you one at original price (way more expensive) and give you a BIG 10% off for their mistake. On second thought the oil thing doesn't seem a big deal when your dealing with complete morons. LOL

    Comment


    • #4
      *****, couldn't I just get the sealing washers by themselves and be done with it? The seal washer on Mitch's two tooth tech page sure worked wonders for me on the steering box.

      Comment


      • #5
        You know, I am looking at the set of nuts and stuff on Snider's site, and am wondering if 100# dry torque is advisable, and 90# wet? Also, you are using not one, but two washers under the nuts!

        I am thinking that the washers for the rear main need to go under the head of the bolt instead of under the nut, since oil can migrate through the shims and along the bolts to leak out the top, which to me means the compression washers need to be fitted for the top of the bolt.

        Just my random musings.
        You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

        Comment


        • #6
          I have a counter balanced crank so my rear is different correct?

          Comment


          • DaWizard
            DaWizard commented
            Editing a comment
            LOL, No Beauford, with a counter balanced crank it only means the crank swings both ways. The main bearing caps are the same as any other stock or counter balanced motor.

          • Beauford
            Beauford commented
            Editing a comment
            HAHA Wiz...that's what I was getting at...can't do any work on rear main with out yanking the heart out!

        • #7
          with a counter weighted crank you are not able to remove the rear main cap with the engine in the car, working from below

          Comment


          • #8
            Lets remember Beauford's motor is a fresh rebuild (not in house), so i don't think he should be messing with the main bolts and caps.
            3 ~ Tudor's
            Henry Ford said
            "It's all nuts and bolts"


            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

            Comment


            • #9
              I will have to post pictures of actual oil on bolt. It is dry everywhere else around the shims. Just one bolt.

              Comment


              • Mitch
                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                yea we like pics

              • Beauford
                Beauford commented
                Editing a comment
                They call me Mr Mucky! LOL

            • #10
              One Guy had his engine out 3 TIMES for a "rear main" leak???---It wuz the front TRANS seal--+*$&%#%^&
              Bill Repeat

              Comment

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