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So took "Rusty" out for a high speed drive to see how he's feeling! That was about 4 hours ago. I went out and checked under the chassis where I have not re-installed dust shield as I like to monitor for any leaks before I mount my body in a few weeks. There is a little oil coming off the rear main bolt/castle nut. No need to worry or is there something I can do? I know not a big deal but what the hell do I know...
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Beauford, take 10 gallons of oil and start heading for Mitch's house !!
Model A's and of course the famous AA's -
You only wish yours changed its self! Leaves me more time to deal with shit vendors! PS: there is a shortage nation wide on A fenders and don't buy anything on Lebron's sale page. They will instruct you that the expensive top you purchased was sold already and they forgot to take it off the page but will gladly sell you one at original price (way more expensive) and give you a BIG 10% off for their mistake. On second thought the oil thing doesn't seem a big deal when your dealing with complete morons. LOLComment
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*****, couldn't I just get the sealing washers by themselves and be done with it? The seal washer on Mitch's two tooth tech page sure worked wonders for me on the steering box.Comment
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You know, I am looking at the set of nuts and stuff on Snider's site, and am wondering if 100# dry torque is advisable, and 90# wet? Also, you are using not one, but two washers under the nuts!
I am thinking that the washers for the rear main need to go under the head of the bolt instead of under the nut, since oil can migrate through the shims and along the bolts to leak out the top, which to me means the compression washers need to be fitted for the top of the bolt.
Just my random musings.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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I have a counter balanced crank so my rear is different correct?Comment
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with a counter weighted crank you are not able to remove the rear main cap with the engine in the car, working from belowComment
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Lets remember Beauford's motor is a fresh rebuild (not in house), so i don't think he should be messing with the main bolts and caps.Comment
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One Guy had his engine out 3 TIMES for a "rear main" leak???---It wuz the front TRANS seal--+*$&%#%^&
Bill RepeatComment
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Well, after some, in depth, diagnosis, it seems my "oil leak" is, mostly coolant. I can't tell precisely where its coming from. The car has a pressurized system and an overflow added so I'll have to get it up to temp and have a look see. It is leaking oil from the rear main, as well. I think I'll drop the pan and Plastigauge it. I have a rather steep, long driveway here at The Fongderosa...01-15-2018, 02:06 PM -
.........did a search and didn't really find what I was after, but is 5w -whatever- oil too thin for a Model A Ford? I know a lot of guys run 15w-40 Delco I get it, but would 5w30 be a bit too thin? Does that create low oil pressure issues? Reason I'm asking is I can get 5 qt. jugs of 5w30 Motorcraft on sale kinda cheap this week. Semi-synthetic. I realize the 'winter' lower number is for quicker...11-02-2018, 11:12 AM -
As a few of you know - I have a 1930 Town Sedan, Murphy Body (March 1930). And she's a little rough. My wife has already named her Millie. The engine hasn't run in some time and I want to attempt to get it started and see what all is wrong and needs to be fixed in the drivetrain. If I don't have to I don't want to drop the oil pan or remove the valve cover to see if I can get this started. The engine...10-01-2018, 11:28 AM -
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This is not to say anything bad about any oil or brand just some info to consider.http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/be...ssic-cars.html They are taking all the zddp out of the oil we run. Right now I have delo 400LE, being discontinued, I also have shell rotella T-4 both are 15/40 these still have the zddp in the higher concentration. You can also buy zddp https://www.thoughtco.com/...09-07-2017, 06:41 AM -
So I was putting a new gasket on valve cover and upon opening cover I notice the oil is kinda a baby poop yellow-orange? I freak and drain the oil. It doesn't look right to me at all being I just start my project a couple times a week and tinker. I had used trace dye for my small rear leak. I'm wondering if this caused the coloration? I am a fanatic about opening rad and seeing fluid at same level...04-08-2018, 08:24 PM -
I have been seeing folk getting all over MMO and questioning the reason for using it. Well, I think it is time to clear a bit of air within these airheads and explain why MMO or Seafoam, or these top end lubricants are almost a must.
If you will take a look at this picture of the valve chamber, you will see to the right a copper tube protruding from the bottom of the valve valley. Well,...09-05-2017, 09:30 PM -
Several threads have popped up here about various oil leaks.
Well, on vintage stuff, ya gonna have'em.
But we try to keep them small.
If you think you have a rear main leak, Rich Fallucca has a good read on this:
http://antiqueenginerebuilding.com/REARMAINLEAK.html
BUT there is one more thing to check, and it might be worth it to check this first:
...05-23-2017, 09:20 PM -
This is not to say anything bad about any oil or brand just some info to consider.http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/be...ssic-cars.html They are taking all the zddp out of the oil we run. Right now I have delo 400LE, being discontinued, I also have shell rotella T-4 both are 15/40 these still have the zddp in the higher concentration. You can also buy zddp https://www.thoughtco.com/debunking-...-...09-07-2017, 06:41 AM
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I remember in the past this being brought up and I think it was George Miller that commented one of the bolts holes near the camshaft at the back of the block goes through. Well the last time I forgot to seal that bolt when I put it back together. And yes she was a leaker. I also discovered the hole on the left side above the crankshaft journal goes through. So it's sealer for both of those bolts...07-05-2018, 03:31 AM
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