Tweet
Day one of my journey started today!
-
Well, I'd say you are off to a good start. Keep up the info and pictures.Champagne don't drive me crazy, cocaine don't make me lazy, ain't nobody's business but my own.
Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker, you can drink all the liquor down in Costa Rica, ain't nobody's business but yer own.Comment
-
Where are you headed on this journey?Comment
-
Not a full restoration. I am rebuilding her mechanically. Make it a good driver, nothing that cannot be reversed. Spruced up A motor, T5 transmission, steering and suspension rebuild. I have 16 inch wires with some new Firestones.
Fuel tank is loose, but need to loosen the filler strip. Tomorrow tank should be out. Pretty cruddy inside and smells like varnish. I have 2 spare tanks and need to see which is best of the 3, then send off to get restored.Comment
-
I see you have the proper tool out, a nice new ball peen hammer. This will be a great thread, love the pics so far.
That tinfoil has been in there for some time, you might be able to sell it on eBay.1~1931 Tudor ~ Dad
2~1930 Tudor's ~ Lucy & Paul
Henry Ford said
"It's all nuts and bolts"
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
-
My tool of choice so far has been my impact screwdriver. It really saved the day breaking all the tank screws loose.Comment
-
Comment
-
I'd spray it with some stuff I think is called "stop rot". Depends on how purist you are but Bondo wood is great. Don't shoot me...LOL -
I have thinned epoxy to almost water and it soaks into the wood the stiffen up the loose stuff. In a boat its always a temp fix. What did Henry coat the wood parts with from the factory?
-
-
-
Comment
-
They make an epoxy wood reconditioner, 2-part, that you can saturate slightly punky wood with. I cannot remember the name of what I used right now. Since you are a wood guy, you may be familiar with these type of products. In places where the screw holes were all worn out, I mixed the epoxy with oak sawdust, and filled the holes, and then re-drilled for the screws. Stronger than the original setup. For example where the door latch bolts on. A '31 deluxe touring is a car that still has a lot of woodComment
-
-
Left frame horn tweaked from fender bender. Bolts are out of flywheel, how tight on crank? Gave up tonight, stubborn.Last edited by dmdeaton; 02-03-2018, 07:33 PM.Comment
-
These are great pictures. Keep us posted..png "thumb up")
Comment
-
use a brass drift through the starter hole to 'loosen' the flywheel,do not pry against the flywheel housing.Comment
-
lookin' good,
easy fix for frame horn, use air powered cutoff wheel, slice the buckled area, reform with hammer, weld up slice
dowel pins must be awful tight @ flywheel, use PB Blaster. There is nothing else holding it on now. Watch your toes and fingers when it breaks freeComment
-
I use a couple long bolts while getting the flywheel loose from the dowel pins.
A better idea would be to cut the heads off and drill a hole in each stud, then drop a cotter pin in the holes.
Once the flywheel is loose, remove the 2 cotter pins and lift the flywheel off.Comment
-
I used a couple long bolts so it didn't bounce down the street. It came off with a couple whacks from a block of wood and spinning a little. Thanks guys, first time didn't want to hurt anyone!Comment
-
Body comes off frame next. Is it ok to brace under the body side to side with a couple good slices of oak tied together with 4 rollers under? I know it is probably better to go lengthwise and support the whole length of the wood braces. Either way is easy for me to make a frame. Going to strip running gear from frame and have it blasted. Wasn't going to, but you know how this goes. This is my first Model A, but not my first car or wooden boat build.Comment
-
Ck out Brents pics on the backend of this tech thread #18
It might give you some ideas for a dolly
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...rdor-wood-pics1~1931 Tudor ~ Dad
2~1930 Tudor's ~ Lucy & Paul
Henry Ford said
"It's all nuts and bolts"
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
-
A pair of 2 x 6's or better yet 2 x 8's side to side should work fine. Watch for weak spots from knots.Comment
-
I ran me up a body dolly out of rectangular tubing and old casters,doesnt matter what the body is,just match the frame rail width and length from the firewall back,drop body on the dolly,square up and drill holes to bolt it down.I went a little higher than car height.that way you can sit on a stool or stand to work on it. Deliberating whether to build a rotisserie,the Sport Coupe body is tits,dont need one for it..but they are sweet for work.Last edited by CM2; 02-05-2018, 09:06 PM.Comment
-
Comment
-
That is a nice Powermatic workbench you have! Is it a "66"?
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/fil...5&d=1518408711
-
You do know you can soda blast that? It doesn't need to be as harsh as sand blasting any more.
One thing I did noticed is that wire going OVER the center brace does NOT go there. it is probably the brake light switch wire you just flopped there to hold it, but remember, all the wires ride along the top edge of the bottom edge of the side rail, and in that place, there is a hole in the cross member at the corner of the side rail for all the wires to go through.Last edited by DaWizard; 02-11-2018, 11:29 PM.Champagne don't drive me crazy, cocaine don't make me lazy, ain't nobody's business but my own.
Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker, you can drink all the liquor down in Costa Rica, ain't nobody's business but yer own.Comment
-
Its not pitted at all, that might be a good option. I am going to take it somewhere. I don't have the compressor or the time. Here in Cincinnati we have American Metal Cleaning, haven't used them myself, but this is where a lot of locals take parts. Going to call them tomorrow. I almost thought about pressure washing and hitting bad spots with a wire brush. This isn't going to be a show car, mechanically rebuilt driver.Last edited by dmdeaton; 02-11-2018, 11:29 PM.
-
Comment