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Hard starts

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    Hard starts

    My tudor is parked in my heated shop, never below 42 degrees. I only start the 29 once every few weeks, take it out and put 3 or 4 miles on her. The last few times shes been tough to start and doesn't want keep running until I make a few attempts. It smells like it is running rich, but tends to backfire a few times before the idle smooths out. Once out on the road, I get a lot of vibration from the engine. Sediment bowl is clean. I assume the gas is close to a year old. I need to ask the seller is he filled it with "good" gas, but I do know he added a lead replacement with each fill up. I plan to drain the tank and refill with 100% gas and 4 oz of MMO. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Draining the tank and adding fresh fuel would certainly be a good start. Your internal carb passages could be getting a crap coating from the fuel. Bad gas starts to get a rank odor that you should easily be able to detect. I can even smell it in a cars exhaust. Along with the MMO i would put some seafoam in there. I have successfully cleaned out poor running engines using it. Worse case scenario you'll have to clean out the carb if all else fails.

    Before you get all involved with the fuel system etc. Make sure you clean and reset your points. They become oxidized and who knows maybe the gap has closed up to much. A first easy step

    I use stabil 360 in my cars since they don't get as much use as i would like.
    3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
    Henry Ford said,
    "It's all nuts and bolts"
    "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

    Mitch's Auto Service ctr


      Oh, I would start with 4oz of MMO before changing out the gas. It sounds like the stuff that is in there is starting to turn. Also, you know there is no need for the lead additive.

      Or just get that gas out of there.

      Oh, one tip on removing the gas from the tank without problems. Turn gas valve off, remove tube from tank to firewall, reverse ends, then simply place a smaller than 5gal can below the end, tighten fitting on valve, open valve and drain gas into can.

      You can also use a 3/8 piece of rubber hose, but the gas will render that useless after the first usage.

      After draining gas, remove valve, insure it has the pencil filter and works smoothly. If it works stiff, there are ways to ease the workings and make sure they don't leak. Just ask.
      Last edited by DaWizard; 01-27-2018, 10:50 AM.
      You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


        if gas is a year old, I'd start out simple and get rid of it, install new fresh with some MMO, and run it around the block, and see what happens next.

        The lower boiling fractions of fuel are what evaporates first, and these fractions are the ones that ignite most easily.
        Last edited by tbirdtbird; 01-27-2018, 01:53 PM.


          If it is ethanol then there could be a chance that it combined with any water in the tank which formed from condensation. The alcohol bonds with the water and forms a layer of goo in low places since it is heavier then gasoline. In fact you can take alcohol out of gasoline by mixing water in the fuel and mixing well, it draws out the alcohol and will separate into a layer of water on the bottom, a layer of alcohol/water mixture and the gasoline will float on top. It may be low octane gasoline with the alcohol removed though.


            You might also want to check and see if you get a nice blue spark that will jump to a ground from the plug wire. Your points could be glazed. You could have loose connection, you could have a bad condenser. You could also have a bad dist cap.
            Last edited by George Miller; 01-27-2018, 03:10 PM.


              I just pulled the top off the cap. Got out the crank and moved the rotor to the contacts and I can get a .030 feeler between the rotor and the contacts. The contacts have a burr or mushroom around them. I've never seen a new one, but I can't imagine they are machined this way. I tried to get a picture, but couldn't get it focused.


              • Mitch
                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                It sounds like they are pitted. You can try cleaning them with a file, then regapping but replacement may be in your future. Get the old gas out either way

              • Big hammer
                Big hammer commented
                Editing a comment
                I’ve seen the mushroom contacts on one of my caps also, couldn’t be from rotor rubbing, maybe from erosion from the spark?

              • Mitch
                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                Disregard what I wrote about the points. I read your post wrong

              You need to measure that gap on all four tabs, then pull the plugs and make sure the plug gap is wider than the cap gap. Say, the cap gap is .032, the gap on the plugs needs to be at least .035, .038 or .040 won't hurt, but it needs to be wider at the plugs. If the rotor is gapped more than .035, I would get out the soldering iron and add solder to the edge of the rotor or to the cap buttons, just to be sure to keep it only hot enough to melt the solder, you don't want to melt either cap or rotor.
              You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


                If the gas was the corn crap stuff, then it will turn gooey or sticky, like thick corn syrup, and won't even be good for cleaning parts. It might still be good enough to help start a backyard recreational fire, where you get rid of yard sticks or have a cookout. Otherwise about all it's good for is to put on weeds you want to kill.


                • aford193031
                  aford193031 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  We use it on the fire ants, at least it makes them move to your neighbor's yard.