I have purchased two thermostats from two vendors (exact same thermostat) and both failed (stuck closed) within a matter of a few weeks. These are the 10 to 11 dollar thermostats sold by the popular vendors. Has anyone else had a similar experience with these? My radiator is clean and in good shape, and the water passages in the block have been flushed out twice. Suggestions?
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Thermostats for the Model A
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Welcome to the VFF
Have you tried testing it in hot water? Is this the style stat that sits inside the upper hose? Was it installed in the proper direction?3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Hey tjnknox, WELCOME to the VFF!!
I personally don't use a stat. I find the problem more the time the water is in the radiator to cool it. What I have done with great success placed a 1¾" washer with the hole turned out to 1" to just slow the water leaving the radiator down so it has more time to cool it before exiting.
Hmmm, gives me an idea...why not put the stat in the exit of the radiator.................hmmmmmYou wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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I don't have a thermostat, yet, but after a short drive (3 or 4 miles) I use an infrared thermometer to check temps. I usually find the front of the head around 145, the rear about 150 and the lower hose pipe about 125. Based on those results, a thermostat in the lower hose may cause an overheated engine.
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I use a thermostat in the top hose, and place it as close as possible to the head. I also drill a couple 1/8" holes in the stat so the hot coolant flows by it, and will heat the wax pellet when the temp reaches 180*. Here's a picture showing the barbed part I cut from a 2" PVC coupling. Never mind the drier sock in the radiator hose, as that was a failed attempt to make a filter to catch rust particles before they enter the radiator. The drier sock tore and blocked some radiator tubes, so now I use a fine brass screen.
The heavy brass part is a tool I made to remove and install the rear bushing. Also shown is the locking collar and nylon thrust washer used to control the end play. I like that better than using the head casting to keep the shaft from moving rearward.
Water Pump Parts.jpg
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Modern Thermostats RARELY ever FAIL!!!!----A Model A Suppliers' sleeved thermostat, in the upper end of the upper hose, works GREAT. NO extra drilled HOLES are needed. Make sure the cupped valve faces UP!!! Minerva did fine for over 12,000 Miles, with a 160 Degree thermostat, this way!!!!
Dad Simple
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You can research the MOST dependable car out there & some JACKASSES will BAD MOUTH IT!!!---Like, "It only had 37,000 miles & it SLUDGED up SO bad, it wouldn't RUN"!!---Dumb Ass probably never changed OIL!!!
Dad Skepticaloftheinterwebandtrustveryfewfolks (A TRUE Friend is one who'll share his ANTI-PAIN-PILLS, when you're in a pinch! HURTIN' AIN'T FUN!)Last edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 01-26-2018, 05:06 PM.
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