Distributor rebuild

[BNCHIEF]

If you are going to rebuild a distributor for the model A george Miller posted a good way to remove the old bushings, that said brattons offers two types of bushings solid and the split oilite bushings which would be best and why?

They offer new distributor housings are these good and does a new top plate fit them good without being sloppy?

There has been a lot of discusssion on points after reading some of these would the stock model a plus an a&L short proof condenser be the best choice?

[Mitch]

If someone wants to put together a how to on rebuilding a Distributor, that could be a good PT tech thread

[BNCHIEF]

Mitch I looked thru the tech section, and there was not anything specific. If nobody steps up I will take a shot at it. I am thinking it should be broken down into 3 sections stock, modern points and condenser and electronic 6v and 12v considerations manual advance and mechanical advance. Timing is another matter but you can statically time electronic ignition something I am sure you know but others may not. I would separate engine timing from distributor rebuilding.

[Mitch]

We can do separate individual threads. I can then combine them on the backend of each other like i did on other topics

A big part of it is the bushing replacement and reaming

[BNCHIEF]

Good point they all start with that to begin with.

[plyfor]

The vendors have a copywrited step by step video and pub's which may be a start for some info. (haven't seen them). The key is having the correct reamer. We just installed modern points and new top plate from Brattons (others perhaps similar quality) in an original distributor housing and the plate was fine. We rebuilt another original housing for back up purposes with stock original plates except the points/ condenser/ shafts. We're now thinking of moving the stock short proof condenser up by the coil for insurance. More of a challenge for some of us is rebuilding the worn spark advance detents if there is not much material left. It would be nice if a vendor could supply a replacement part that could slip over or be "glued" to severely worn quadrants, which is another topic.

[1931 Flamingo]

Would not honing the bushings be better AND cheaper than buying a one time use reamer??
Paul in CT

[BNCHIEF]

My thought as well.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have never reamed distributor bushings. I bought the stock shaft (no oil hole) and bushings from Bratton's. After removing every part off the cast distributor body, including the oil cup, I sandblast it, and install the new bushings. I then chuck the shaft in my lathe and oil it while running it in the new bushings to burnish them. After a minute or so the shaft will have a nice fit. I then take the shaft out and use a small bottle brush to thoroughly clean the housing and bushings. I then paint it and assemble it.

I don't think Bratton's sells the solid shaft with no oil hole any longer, so the last shafts I bought came from Bert's. The top bushing will get oil, even without a hole in the shaft. Just be sure to fill the oil cup every 500 miles or so.

I made a couple special tools to remove and install the bushings. If they aren't in the "Homemade Tools" section, I will look for the pictures and add them. I just checked, and I did post the pictures and description in the "Chassis" section under "Homemade Tools", or you can do a search for "Homemade Tools Distributor Bushing Removal Tools" to find it.

[George Miller]

I install them like Tom. the only difference is I use the drill press. But that can be dangerous when hanging on the distriibutor be carefully. I would not ream them, it is not needed. Also I like the solid bushing not the split.

[CM2]

did mine by hand..fit and turn.

[BNCHIEF]

George thank you for answering my question on bushings, Tom thanks for the tool tip.

[Jim Mason]

I like the original. surprised, huh?

Clean, remove paint,clean oil passage, Re-bush, ream, hone and fit shaft, clean, paint casting leaving good path to ground, adjust shaft fit, clean fit original lower plate, new lower wire with proper end, new condenser, clean upper plate, new points, check point gap on all four lobes, correct if needed ... you get the idea.

or you can fix it until it's broke.

[Jim Mason]

Oh, come on. Somebody must have an opposing view. How are we to get the full view if there is no rebuttal?

[DaWizard]

Hey Jim, when yer right, yer right!

[BNCHIEF]

Jim could you elaborate on how to fix it until it is broke since it can be done many ways,Will that help?

[Jim Mason]

Some body must like the modified parts, new electronic versions, dual points etc. I'd like to here their reasoning.

[BNCHIEF]

Im I have run both I think the engine starts quicker with the electronic igniton, but the original works quite well also electronic will work in a sloppy or worn distributor, not so for points. Changing points is not a big deal so it is pretty much up to the owner.