Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Distributor rebuild

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Distributor rebuild

    If you are going to rebuild a distributor for the model A george Miller posted a good way to remove the old bushings, that said brattons offers two types of bushings solid and the split oilite bushings which would be best and why?

    They offer new distributor housings are these good and does a new top plate fit them good without being sloppy?

    There has been a lot of discusssion on points after reading some of these would the stock model a plus an a&L short proof condenser be the best choice?





  • #2
    If someone wants to put together a how to on rebuilding a Distributor, that could be a good PT tech thread
    4~ Tudor's
    1~ Coupe

    Henry Ford said,
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      Mitch I looked thru the tech section, and there was not anything specific. If nobody steps up I will take a shot at it. I am thinking it should be broken down into 3 sections stock, modern points and condenser and electronic 6v and 12v considerations manual advance and mechanical advance. Timing is another matter but you can statically time electronic ignition something I am sure you know but others may not. I would separate engine timing from distributor rebuilding.

    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      We can do separate individual threads. I can then combine them on the backend of each other like i did on other topics

      A big part of it is the bushing replacement and reaming

    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      Good point they all start with that to begin with.

  • #3
    The vendors have a copywrited step by step video and pub's which may be a start for some info. (haven't seen them). The key is having the correct reamer. We just installed modern points and new top plate from Brattons (others perhaps similar quality) in an original distributor housing and the plate was fine. We rebuilt another original housing for back up purposes with stock original plates except the points/ condenser/ shafts. We're now thinking of moving the stock short proof condenser up by the coil for insurance. More of a challenge for some of us is rebuilding the worn spark advance detents if there is not much material left. It would be nice if a vendor could supply a replacement part that could slip over or be "glued" to severely worn quadrants, which is another topic.

    Comment


    • #4
      Would not honing the bushings be better AND cheaper than buying a one time use reamer??
      Paul in CT

      Comment


      • BNCHIEF
        BNCHIEF commented
        Editing a comment
        My thought as well.

    • #5
      I have never reamed distributor bushings. I bought the stock shaft (no oil hole) and bushings from Bratton's. After removing every part off the cast distributor body, including the oil cup, I sandblast it, and install the new bushings. I then chuck the shaft in my lathe and oil it while running it in the new bushings to burnish them. After a minute or so the shaft will have a nice fit. I then take the shaft out and use a small bottle brush to thoroughly clean the housing and bushings. I then paint it and assemble it.

      I don't think Bratton's sells the solid shaft with no oil hole any longer, so the last shafts I bought came from Bert's. The top bushing will get oil, even without a hole in the shaft. Just be sure to fill the oil cup every 500 miles or so.

      I made a couple special tools to remove and install the bushings. If they aren't in the "Homemade Tools" section, I will look for the pictures and add them. I just checked, and I did post the pictures and description in the "Chassis" section under "Homemade Tools", or you can do a search for "Homemade Tools Distributor Bushing Removal Tools" to find it.
      Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 01-25-2018, 12:59 PM.

      Comment


      • George Miller
        George Miller commented
        Editing a comment
        I install them like Tom. the only difference is I use the drill press. But that can be dangerous when hanging on the distriibutor be carefully. I would not ream them, it is not needed. Also I like the solid bushing not the split.

      • CM2
        CM2 commented
        Editing a comment
        did mine by hand..fit and turn.

      • BNCHIEF
        BNCHIEF commented
        Editing a comment
        George thank you for answering my question on bushings, Tom thanks for the tool tip.

    • #6
      I like the original. surprised, huh?

      Clean, remove paint,clean oil passage, Re-bush, ream, hone and fit shaft, clean, paint casting leaving good path to ground, adjust shaft fit, clean fit original lower plate, new lower wire with proper end, new condenser, clean upper plate, new points, check point gap on all four lobes, correct if needed ... you get the idea.

      or you can fix it until it's broke.
      http://jmodela.coffeecup.com

      Comment


      • Jim Mason
        Jim Mason commented
        Editing a comment
        Oh, come on. Somebody must have an opposing view. How are we to get the full view if there is no rebuttal?

      • DaWizard
        DaWizard commented
        Editing a comment
        Hey Jim, when yer right, yer right!

      • BNCHIEF
        BNCHIEF commented
        Editing a comment
        Jim could you elaborate on how to fix it until it is broke since it can be done many ways,Will that help?

      • Jim Mason
        Jim Mason commented
        Editing a comment
        Some body must like the modified parts, new electronic versions, dual points etc. I'd like to here their reasoning.

    • #7
      Im I have run both I think the engine starts quicker with the electronic igniton, but the original works quite well also electronic will work in a sloppy or worn distributor, not so for points. Changing points is not a big deal so it is pretty much up to the owner.

      Comment

      Related Topics

      Collapse

      • davew
        Distributor
        by davew
        Thinking of changing distributor with modern points to one with original. There are some rebuilt on eBay. They say rebuilt etc..how do I know it will work and would i be better off buying a rebuilt from an model A supplier? Thanks, just checking here first before i do something. dave...
        01-30-2018, 01:46 PM
      • Captndan
        Points
        by Captndan
        Did a search but came up empty. Where to get good points? Need them now not in a week.
        11-02-2018, 07:04 AM
      • plyfor
        Modern Points ,condenser
        by plyfor
        Sorry to belabor this subject but for a 12 volt modern upper plate dizzy, Rockauto sells 2 types for 65 V8 Mustang, each as follows:
        FD77T (Tseries) condenser @$2.53, the FD77 @ $4.89. The points are FD8183VT @$3.03 and FD8183V @ $10.02.
        Are these a correct application and what would be the difference aside from price? We found in a box of parts a condenser from a known A vendor in a Standard
        ...
        01-21-2018, 06:16 PM
      • Tom Wesenberg
        Spark Timing, Set It and Forget It, Timing info, Timing lights 101
        by Tom Wesenberg
        Spark Timing, Set It and Forget It,


        There are at least a couple ways to set the timing. You first must set the point gap, and I always set mine to .020" with the points setting on the highest part of the cam lobe. This remains the same whether you use the "A" cam or "B" cam. After the points gap is set, you can then push the spark lever all the way up,...
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 2 photos.
        05-16-2017, 02:34 PM
      • BudP
        Recommendation for Timing Equipment
        by BudP
        In 1972 when my time in the USMCR ended I found myself with some free time on weekends I wasn't working. I enrolled in a local vocational tech school to learn auto electronics and timing. It lasted four Saturdays: the first Saturday was on theory while the second and third Saturdays were hands-on. The fourth Saturday was the relatively "new" electronic ignition system. Time passes. ...
        06-04-2018, 03:48 PM
      • Jwmckenzie
        Points and Condenser
        by Jwmckenzie
        I have run both original points and condenser setups as well as modern points and condensers mounted on the upper plate. I "think" the car sounds better at idle with original points. What is your preference.
        Original Points and Condenser
        75.68%
        28
        Condenser and Points mounted on the upper plate
        21.62%
        8
        Electronic Ignition of some sort
        2.70%
        1
        05-20-2018, 12:48 PM
      • BNCHIEF
        Model A Distributor builds
        by BNCHIEF
        I am doing this in a different thread because I do not want it to get confused with the zipper threads as those are a whole different subject, I will show a distributor with the nurex modern top plate and stipe distributor cam, I will also show a distributor I built with electronic ignition and the ability to limit total advance.
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 12 photos.
        05-02-2018, 04:25 PM
      • BNCHIEF
        Model A Distributor builds
        by BNCHIEF
        Original Thread

        I am doing this in a different thread because I do not want it to get confused with the zipper threads as those are a whole different subject, I will show a distributor with the nurex modern top plate and stipe distributor cam, I will also show a distributor I built with electronic ignition and the ability to limit total advance.
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 12 photos.
        05-02-2018, 04:25 PM
      • carolinamudwalker
        Torsional damper
        by carolinamudwalker
        There is a pretty serious discussion about a torsional damper (rubber front pulley) made in New Zealand on the other site that is way over my head. Maybe some of you engine builders can have a look and comment.
        11-24-2017, 08:40 AM
      • WMWS
        Shimming mains
        by WMWS
        I am running 30* total advance and am careful about not lugging the engine with too much advance. I also never rev above 2000 RPM. So my question is how many miles do you all go before checking babbitt and adjusting shims if necessary....
        07-01-2018, 07:28 AM
      Working...
      X