Talk about crap gas!!

[DaWizard]

I just noticed something to day that has me a bit troubled.

Awhile ago I replaced my original gas cap with what I think was a repo that I found fit better than the original. Now since I don't trust the venting on the repo parts, I drilled a small hole in the top of the cap to insure it vented well.

Well, today I went to wipe off the sweat that had gathered around the hole and I find the chrome plating is coming off! Here are pictures of the offending parts.

Gas Cap 1.jpgGas Cap 2.jpg That is being done by whatever vapor that is escaping out the hole produced by the crap gas we have here in So Cal.

[Mitch]

Here is what it does to a fuel pump. See post #2

https://www.vintagefordforum.com/forum/model-a/57-anyone-up-for-a-gasahol-thread

[Tom Wesenberg]

I was looking for the picture of my brass float on my motorbike, but couldn't find it. Crap gas turned it green, and the layer was thick enough to scrape off with a knife. I also had to clean out the copper fuel line.

[Dennis]

I've never had a problem with my repro gas cap. It has always vented just fine. But the gas had left a deposit in the bottom of my carburetor in the past. I now pour in at least the recommended amount of MMO whenever I fill up. I don't know if it is catching on in my area, but this past week I went to 2 Walmart stores to stock up and both were out. I finally found some at a store in another county. I left a couple bottles for somebody else.

[Art Ebeling]

If your pour modern gas into a clear drinking glass and let it sit for a week you will see the moisture pulled from the air settle at the bottom of the glass. I think that drilling the vent hole at the top of the cap made it even more likely for that to happen. I live on a lake and will only use Stable Marine for ethanol gas, it basically lays a film at the top of the gas in the tank that the moisture drawn from the air can't penetrate.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Sta-Bil Marine the green stuff used here too. Also, StarTron the boaters around here put me onto that it is good stuff. And I have been using a shot of MMO it does make a difference. Had a stuck valve on the Flathead, started running MMO and voila problem gone that motor purrs now. Firm believer in the stuff never used to use it I do now.

[Denis4x4]

We are very fortunate that we can get ethanol free gas delivered in Durango. I have a Honda outboard in the shop in San Diego and it will cost me about $400 plus to repair the damage ethanol caused. I have no problem paying extra for ethanol free gas, the problem is finding a consistent source at marinas.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I was pouring gas into my car from a 2 gallon red plastic gas can and it didn't seem to be flowing from the spout. When I removed the spout to check the filter screen, this is what I saw. I tried to lightly brush away the green scum, but the ethanol had so corroded the brass screen that it fell apart from the outer glued part.

The carb float is the brass float in my Tillotson motorbike carb.

I'm showing these pictures not to start another ethanol debate, because we already know how bad it is and what a waste of money it is, but to show the importance of not storing crap gas in small engines and limit the time it is stored in containers. I know a lot of us carry spare gas for the Model A and I hope it's the good gas if you store it for more than a month.

Crap Gas 1.jpgCrap Gas 2.jpg

[carolinamudwalker]

Mitch, am I in trouble? I could not get the steel fuel line from the shut off valve to the firewall that the venders sell to stop leaking so I replaced it with copper tubing. I tried 3 different steel lines but they all leaked. Now you guys show me all these pictures, CRAP

[Tom Wesenberg]

Mitch, am I in trouble? I could not get the steel fuel line from the shut off valve to the firewall that the venders sell to stop leaking so I replaced it with copper tubing. I tried 3 different steel lines but they all leaked. Now you guys show me all these pictures, CRAP

I imagine you are buying the lines with the nut and ferrule as one piece. Those take a lot of pressure to squeeze the ferrule and make it snap off the nut. Be sure the line is sticking past the ferrule about 1/16" to 1/8", then put a drop or two of oil on it and tighten it into the cast iron carb tight enough to make it snap apart. If you have a diecast sediment bowl, I'd also use the cast iron carb to make that end snap and seat to the line. It takes a lot of pressure, so you don't want to risk damaging the die cast sediment bowl threads. When it snaps apart, the ferrule should be squeezed tight to the line for a good seal.

[Mitch]

I thought he was talking about the fuel line under the dash. "shut off valve to the firewall"

[Mitch]

We have information on how to install a fuel line on this tech thread post #4 for anyone that is interested

https://www.vintagefordforum.com/forum/model-a/technical-reference/4481-fuel-system-basics-and-filtering-options

[SeaSlugs]

I dunno this is the deal factory fuel pump out of my buddies 2002 Ranger with 196K miles on it run on nothing but E10... It electrically started dying...

[Mitch]

Slug the pump shown was obviously always used in a fresh tank of fuel. My link in post #2 shows a pump that has been submerged in stale ethanol gas.

[SeaSlugs]

True - truck maybe sits a week or two at most.

I dunno I have never had any of the problems posted here and we've had E10 since early 80's here so I dont understand unless there is something screwy about places that are new to E10 and getting some different blends of it...Ive never had it turn brass stuff green before either. I have encountered the white powder stuff on old potmetal carbs though (awful material to make a carb out of...)

Whatever is in the plastic can in the fall gets dumped in the mowers with whatever was left in them in the spring - start right up every time.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I thought he was talking about the fuel line under the dash. "shut off valve to the firewall"

After posting, I wondered which line was in question. I worked on a 1930 Coupe tank to sediment bowl line that I couldn't get sealed until I tinned the flare on the inside lip. Then it sealed perfectly. On my 1928 I discovered a crack in the soldered fitting next to the sediment bowl, so I turned out a new brass fitting on my lathe and made the lip just a hair thicker, to add strength.