I do not want to get into bashing people. So I,m going to say the model A engine is one of the hardiest to get right when rebuilding them. You could do 2 chev small blocks or Ford small block to 1 model A engine, that is if you do it right. Every one always says how simple they are. But they are not simple to get right.
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Rebuilding a model A engine
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You got that right George. They are certainly their own animal. If one does not know the in’s and out’s of the species it certainly won’t last very long.3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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I think every one has had a problem with a oil leak out the rear main at one time. So many have had the mains bored off the original center line. Piston bores have been bored off location. What ever could have been butchered was done long before we got to work on them. It takes time to learn all this and how to fix the mess.Last edited by George Miller; 01-22-2018, 04:43 PM.
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I can say from an assemblers view they are different,with modern engines you can live by the book,these require feel,something that comes with experience.I cant imagine from the machinist's view,cut a block four our five times its bound to be a nightmare.I get a kick out or rods,most I've seen have more marks than a shithouse wall.
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When I got into mod. A s, I figured I could certainly do a flathead four. How hard can it be? Great Question! Then I started looking into it and found this thing is damn near impossible. The last engine I bought was a O-320 H2AD 4 cyl. pancake for my airplane. Over $10 large, in 1997! Broke my heart and my wallet! It was a four banger but most of the parts were aluminum. I think I recall each jug was around $500. But the Insurance all aviation suppliers must carry , etc. (Aviation STP costs twice as much as automotive but there is always the govt's form 337) To go on, I used the cheapest rebuilder we had found, a good guy, who did good work It was still over $10 grand. And now I'm paying over half that for one of the most primitive engines ever mass produced? What the Hell? What a scam! I've done a couple of flathead V8s, A couple of 292 Y blocks, a couple of SBCs. All turned out very well! And for a fraction of that price! Of course, I didn't grind the cranks or bore the blocks, they were merely honed. The valves were lapped. The wind up of this lament is that the Mod. A is a PITA that requires a lot of equipment.
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by popsjohnI have decided to get the engine rebuilt in my Tudor due to the worn babbit. At the same time I am considering lightening the flywheel and installing a V8 clutch. Bratton's catalog states the crank must be counterbalanced when installing the V8 clutch. What is a counterbalanced crank? How is it done? Is this the same as a crank with counter weights added?
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Channel: Model A Forum
10-02-2021, 08:10 AM -
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by MrtherichI'm in a moral dilemma here. As some of you might have seen, I'm a new young 1929 Tudor owner.
When I bought the car, I thought the engine ran great. But after a bit of driving realized, things were quite wrong.
After taking the engine apart, discovered broken and worn out Babbitt's, and worn out cylinder bores, and a pitted crank.
In the country I live there is no one with...-
Channel: Model A Forum
02-07-2022, 01:10 AM -
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by BNCHIEFI have a question this is something i have never done before, but here goes i have a friends engine here the babbit in the rear main is cracked a a piece broke off, i am thinking about pulling the crank and checking the condition of the babbit in the block if it is ok i can get re-babbitted main bearing caps and hand fit everything back. i would also need to remove the pistons and rods to get enough...
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Channel: Model A Forum
08-25-2021, 08:50 AM -
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by GreynomadI am reaching out to members in the US because it is a very different market over there with stuff available that would be very difficult or impossible to find here. First, some background:
One of my cars has a B engine fitted which runs beautifully. It is my favourite and I think the counterweighted crankshaft is a large part of that. The bearings have inserts. I do not see inserts listed for...-
Channel: Model A Forum
05-30-2020, 10:53 PM -
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by Ray HortonThis engine, with only 4000 miles on it since rebuild, has always overheated and locked up when shut down after overheating, which is usually when driven at 45 or less for 30 minutes or more. (This did not and does not happen when driven under 35 and/or just around town for less than 45 minutes). I thought I had this problem fixed. But apparently not.
Here is the history: On 3/16/14 I...-
Channel: Model A Forum
07-01-2017, 01:12 AM -
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by Denis4x4Getting a funny noise from the engine in my avatar, so I removed the front cover and discovered an aftermarket pulley with a sloppy keyway had just about destroyed the woodruff key. Finally removed it and got a new key that got stuck due to the damage incurred earlier. Decided to put the car in the storage garage with a box of parts and decide later on pulling the engine and having the crank checked...
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Channel: Early Modified
06-03-2018, 10:34 AM -
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When I first got my car I took it to a local rebuilder to have the engine looked over. He took out some shims and buttoned things up. Several tours later I started to hear some engine noise and noticed about 3/16 of shiny crank shaft at the front of the engine. I dropped the pan and found all the connecting rod caps had tiny loose cotter pins. some were broken and in the oil pan.They served no...
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Channel: Model A Forum
11-09-2017, 03:16 PM -
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by Terry, NJWell I've been preoccupied with my coupe (Redwheels) and I'd better get back to work on my Town sedan. So I haven't started it in a while and I was getting anxious about that fact. I had tried a while ago and it seemed to turn over hard with a 6 V. This time I would start it with 12V. It cranked over sometimes fast and other times slow. Duly Noted! It started a few times but didn't stay running...
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Channel: Model A Forum
11-10-2018, 11:45 PM -
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