Oil Types?

[Chevmn56]

Good morning A'ers, i have another newbie question. I have searched this site on the topic and there isn't much yet, In the Red Book (bible) Les says 10-30 but in reading on the rmaford.org site they have a great write up on oils , and they mention that the SA rated oils have a bad effect on the A's engine......soooooo i am looking at putting a 10-30 in Clyde and probably synthetic according to the rmaford.org site (willing to fork out the extra money each year).....But is anyone heard of the SA thing they mention? and what oil are you all using?

http://rmaford.org/wp-content/blogs.dir/396/files/2012/01/WHICH_OIL_TO_USE_by_Russert_and_Wiedeman_Rev_C_Mar_2012.pdf

Pat

[Ed H]

Here is some info.http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

[Mitch]

I run 15/50 Mobil 1

When servicing a customers vehicle i use 15/40 Rotella.

[Dennis]

Where do you find the 15/50 Mobil 1? The closest I found was 10-40 in Mobil 1. Truck stop?

[Mitch]

You can get it anywhere. I buy it from my shop jobber

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-15W-50-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-1-qt/20713645?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227025388314&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=83024665008&wl4=aud-273067695102:pla-113692964208&wl5=9007206&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=20713645&wl13=&veh=sem

[BNCHIEF]

X2 on mitch's choice of oil but only after an engine is broken in plus make sur your engine does not leak excessively

[George Miller]

Mitch I have never use synthetic in my A. Does it lead to more oil leaks? like some say.

[Mitch]

George that is another myth

[DaWizard]

I go to Walmart and get the cheapest 20/50 on the shelf. The 5 quart bottle, around $11.00/ bottle. Since I am using a filter and changing when I get the urge, I figure I'm good to go anywhere I want. I am also in So Cal.

[Dennis]

I'm running 10-30 until it warms up and by summer hoping Mitch will ship some 15/50 Mobil1 to me...

[Chevmn56]

15/50 full synthetic?

[Mitch]

Yes

[Dennis]

Yeah Mobil1 is full synthetic. Regular Mobil is blend and convential.

[JDupuis]

Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel. Jeff

[CarlG]

X2

[SoCal_alden]

X3

[CarlLaFong]

I run Delo 400 in everything I own. I have 2 Ram Diesels, so I always have a few jugs of it layin' around. BTW, I've been driving and fooling with cars and bikes for over 55 years and have never had an oil related failure. When I was a kid, we used Raylube reclaimed oil (10 cents a quart at the local supermarket) and it did just fine in all of our old junkers. Just keep it slippery on the inside and change it, when necessary

[Mitch]

Hey i forgot to post this. It's an old joke on oil threads for you newcomers.

bridge1.jpg

[CarlLaFong]

Every auto/MC forum has endless threads about oil. They never end well

[BNCHIEF]

Mitch is that T-bird in the picture?

[Jeff/Illinois]

THAT'S funny!!!!!

[Mike V. Florida]

Good morning A'ers, i have another newbie question. I have searched this site on the topic and there isn't much yet, In the Red Book (bible) Les says 10-30 but in reading on the rmaford.org site they have a great write up on oils , and they mention that the SA rated oils have a bad effect on the A's engine......soooooo i am looking at putting a 10-30 in Clyde and probably synthetic according to the rmaford.org site (willing to fork out the extra money each year).....But is anyone heard of the SA thing they mention? and what oil are you all using?

http://rmaford.org/wp-content/blogs.dir/396/files/2012/01/WHICH_OIL_TO_USE_by_Russert_and_Wiedeman_Rev_C_Mar_2012.pdf

Pat

Do you want the truth? Well here it is, ANY oil of proper weight designed for vehicle use and changed often will work work fine in your model A engine. That's it!!

Find me somewhere that states using XYZ oil will damage your engine everytime or even most of the time. You can't because there is none. Oils today beat the oils of the 30's every time.

Use what makes you happy, conventional, synthetic, half and half, high ZZDP, what ever gets you in your car and driving it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Every auto/MC forum has endless threads about oil. They never end well

Are you saying they burn out because they used the wrong oil?

[George Miller]

not if you run whitewall tires.

[CM2]

The API 'C' oils...rotella.delo diesel grade 15/40's..have higher shear factors than automotive oils,it hold up bettter in extreme pressure instances,like a center main bearing and flat tappet cam setups.It has a higher viscosity modifier value,which means is resists breakdown better,which is the viscosity modifier failing to its lightest rating,in the case 15w..The latest spec has a very high soot entrainment value for DEF engines,basically it hold soot and debris in 'suspension'better,instead of depositing it on bearings..That being said,its all bullshit,just change it once in a while and you'll be fine

[BNCHIEF]

Diesel engine oil are formulated to be run under high demand for long periods and run for 10-20 thousand miles between changes at which time oil analysis takes place but like cm2 keep it simple change when it looks dirty. pull the oil pan plug, clean it out looking for metal also use light and look at the oil in the pan and see if you see metal, you can filter your old oil thru a paint strainer and see what you get, proper maintenance is the bottom line in anything.

[Mitch]

There is a Rotella T-5 out now that i use in my Duramax. It's a semi synthetic 15/40..

So to sum it up for ME.

15/40 T-4 Rotella
15/40 T-5 Rotella
15/50 Mobil 1

These are my Model A flavors.

[BNCHIEF]

Our company that I worked for cenex we used full synthetics in our trucks, which they make however their grease is terrible imo they said one time they were going to improve their grease and I said so your putting mobil grease in your tubes. I am now retired.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Chevman56,,, this is always a good question.

I run 5W-30 Motorcraft synthetic blend in the Model A, '36 Pickup, and the '69 Mach I. I add a bottle of ZDDP to the Mach (Windsor M-Code, 10.5:1 compression)only because of the stiff spring rates and to protect the cam. The Model A and the Flathead don't really need Zinc (ZDDP). I run Motorcraft oil simply because I was a Parts Mgr. at the local Ford dealership and always used Ford anything I could get, probably from all the Ford Motor Branch Parts and Service School training we had out of Chicago! Plus Motorcraft is refined, for Ford, at the Phillips refineries which also do Kendall GT-1 oils (reason for the red bottles). I ran Phillips Trop Artic for many years before that and ran my motors forever, and they were always very clean inside.

Kendall, Phillips 66, Shell, Mobil, Texaco, Sunoco, Wolf's Head, Brad Penn,,,, all excellent oils take your pick. The blue bottled WalMart brand is Mobil from what I have been told and a mechanic friend of mine runs that and says he has had excellent results with it, and it's cheap.

Many of the guys on here that know a lot more about Model A Fords than I do will also say to drop the oil pan and side valve cover on a newly acquired Model and clean them thoroughly. I never did, was too lazy I guess, but after several oil changes it seemed to clean up any sludge that was in there!

[Dennis]

I had mine off several times mainly to fix a rear main leak. After taking it off the first 2 times it was well worth the effort after finding all the filings and contamination from the block having had machine work done.

[CM2]

Know what the difference between synthetic oil and dinosaur pumped out of the ground oil is? molecular consistency, the molecules of synthetic oil are all the same size,the dino oil varies.

that's what makes it superior,I ran hybrid synthetic in a truck fleet I managed,extended the drain interval to match the DOT inspection requirement,saved the company a fortune by minimizing the maintenance downtime..on a 200 tractor 500 trailer fleet cutting a mandatory shop visit out four times a year is big..

[Kevin in NJ]

Synthetics are a waste of money on the A. They are designed to let a motor run for a very long time between changes. So if you do put it in you best run it for a long while.

My advice based on what oil engineers say about oil and antique vehicles.

Buy a quality oil with detergents and additives (you need the additives to protect the engine).
Do not change it too often!!! That is a waste of money and resources. A few years or a few thousand miles. Depending on how and where you run all the time. Lots of dirt roads maybe do it sooner.

There may be some merit to using compression combustion rated oils. This has to do with additives for protection from bad chemicals and because of the thicker babbitt. I do not have any proof that this is so. In any event, most guys change the oil too soon for it to matter.

[JDupuis]

Hey Guys, Mitch started a poll on another thread: "Motor oil weight poll".
Please, please, fill in the blanks on that post. Cast your view, and hit the vote button.
You can see the poll results immediately. Jeff