There's been lot of great discussion lately relating to my current project: changing the head. I've got a brand new 5:5 Snyder's head coming that will need to be painted. Does it need any prep or primer before applying the Ford green top coat?
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Painting a new cylinder head
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First send it out to a machine shop and have it Machine flat. Everyone I purchase has been warped front to back, then blow out all holes & clean with thinner and paint.
mikeMichael
1928 speedster
1929 closed cab p/u
1930 standard roadster
1931 deluxe tudor sedan
1967 ss/rs conv.camaro
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would suggest lacquer thinner, not paint thinner, unless that is what was meant. Paint thinner leaves a residue and is generally gonna cause trouble when it comes to car paints
Would also suggest spraying head down with Ospho (ACE hardware and others) , as a passivating agent. Then paint right over that.
I just blasted and Ospho'd a B police head to get it ready for paint the other day. Will post a pic of the passivated head later today,
There seems to be some confusion about using Ospho and other phosphoric acid agents. Some think you are supposed to wash it off with water. Not sure where that is coming from. BUT that is not what you want to do; you just removed your protection. The Ospho label states that if used on galvanized metal it MAY be washed off; but even then I am not sure why anyone would do that.
For small jobs I use a plant mister bottle; for bigger jobs like panels I use a garden sprayer
cyl heads.jpg
That battleship gray that you see is iron phosphate, which is inert. We then directly apply Baril, or Zolatone, or similar DTM (direct-to-metal) urethane. You will have to re-sandblast the head to get it off. I believe captdan on this forum also uses this process for his cast iron.
Tom W, that is a hi-comp head for my Stude M5 project; up 1.5 points from the stock head.
Time to load the gun.......Last edited by tbirdtbird; 06-25-2017, 05:12 PM.
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i usually brake kleen it and paint.. but definitely get a skim cut.
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Good tips! There have been other discussions of the torquing and head stud selection issues that I've followed with interest.There were also threads on the head gasket selection. Interesting that Bert's doesn't even carry the so-called "premium" head gasket... the silicone one that is advertised with extra silicone bands around all water passages and does not require any sealant. In a recent phone call, they told me they've had problems with them so I'm going with the Best gasket. Tom's thought about painting the bottom side edge sound like a good idea. I'll let you know how it turns out! Hope I can get it back together in time for the 4th of July parade! Thanks.
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NOT in my Carriage House, I have enough T.S.P. to last me 'til I CROAK!
By the way, T.S.P. mixed with water, to a pancake batter consistency, is a SAFE, but SLOW paint stripper.
Bill CleanerthanmostfolksLast edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 06-23-2017, 09:16 PM.
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Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Postwould suggest lacquer thinner, not paint thinner, unless that is what was intended. Paint thinner leaves a residue and is generally gonna cause trouble when it comes to car paints
Would also suggest spraying head down with Ospho (ACE hardware and others) , as a passivating agent. Then paint right over that.
I just blasted and Ospho'd a B police head to get it ready for paint the other day. Will post a pic of the passivated head later today,
There seems to be some confusion about using Ospho and other phosphoric acid agents. Some think you are supposed to wash it off with water. Not sure where that is coming from. BUT that is not what you want to do; you just removed your protection. The Ospho label states that if used on galvanized metal it MAY be washed off; but even then I am not sure why anyone would do that
cyl heads.jpg
That battleship gray that you see is iron phosphate, which is inert. We then directly apply Baril, or Zolatone, or similar DTM (direct-to-metal) urethane. You will have to re-sandblast the head to get it off. I believe captdan on this forum also uses this process for his cast iron.
Tom W, that is a hi-comp head for my Stude M5 project; up 1.5 points from the stock head.
Time to load the gun.......
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So my head's hurtin' and Bill maybe right that I'm thinkin' (always dangerous) too much, BUT: Judging by tbirds pictures I guess it doesn't hurt anything to get Ospho on the bosses, in the threads or on the underside of the head where the gasket goes????
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Just one (1) opinion.
After witnessing so many vintage automotive paint failures, my goal is to go through life preparing Model A parts and providing coatings on Model A parts once in a life time.
After looking at hundreds of painted Model A vintage engines in Model A's, and hundreds of painted engine in photographs "after" engines are at least five (5) years old, one clearly sees rust along the top of the block and the bottom of the head adjacent to the head gasket and many times peeling paint adjacent to same.
My engine, transmission, differential, and undercarriage was all prepared with all POR 15 products and finally coated with POR 15 products.
Not one speck of rust after ten (10) years and I think this coating could last at least another 100 years ....... if in doubt ..... just ask Mr. Purdy ..... one of the very few other Model A owners who learned years ago how to use these very special POR 15 preparation products and these very special POR 15 final coatings.
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by smittykidI just purchased a 5.5:1 high comp. head from Snyder's. I'm sending the short block out to the folks in Skokie, Il. for a rebuild. I checked with them and they use the same paint that Snyder's sells. I want to paint the head before I get the block back. I think I know what to do regarding prepping and painting the head, but I wanted to double check with you guys first. Thanks in advance, Smi...
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Channel: Model A Forum
07-28-2017, 09:04 AM -
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by 1crosscutI just installed a high compression head on my AA yesterday. While torquing a head after a fresh paint job it is easy to mar the paint around the nuts especially since the torque has to be done in multiple steps. In the past I was always careful (sometimes not careful enough) to keep the socket lifted up a bit to keep from damaging the paint. I got to thinking a ways to make this simpler and more...
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02-22-2020, 07:40 PM -
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by thomThis morning the cylinder head cracked on our '28 coupe. I cranked it and drove off in it without checking the level in the radiator, but I had checked it last evening and it was good. There was no sign of leakage under the car or water/coolant showing on the oil dipstick. Shortly after startup, I heard a whistling sound and stopped to check it out. There is a crack across the head about 2/3 back...
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10-04-2019, 01:46 PM -
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by BrentI was getting a good amount of seepage around the head so I pulled it yesterday to replace the gasket. Before putting the head back on, I wanted to check with the group. Do you see anything of concern? Aside from a little bit of clean up, should I be doing anything else? Compression readings were 44, 50, 47, 49.
Thanks,
BrentYou do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.-
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03-17-2019, 08:01 AM -
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by 1930artdecoHi All,
I blew a head gasket, water in oil etc. so I am doing a couple of things all at once to her. Now I am down to gasket replacement. I am looking at two different head pullers which one is best for a REALLY REALLY stuck head:
1) Eye bolt that goes in the plug hole
2) The long multi position head/engine puller that also goes into the plug holes (don't know how else...-
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01-28-2019, 07:19 PM -
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by MitchHere is the story fwiw!!
Quote:
6/4/2020 by Bill Leonard. MARC FaceBook
I AM SHARING THIS TO SHOW EVERYONE THE DARK SIDE OF REMOVING A VERY VERY SEIZED CYLINDER HEAD. I am keenly aware of the do’s and don’t, know the must-do cleaning and cautions to make sure all the shavings are out of the cylinders, valves, etc. as we install new studs and a high compression...-
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06-05-2020, 09:30 PM -
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by 1930artdecoOk I am looking for a consensus about this. When I built this engine years ago I installed grade 8 head studs as I added the 5.5 head. Now, I am assuming they are still good as I only have about 10-15k on the engine. But what did Ford use originally with the high comp heads grade 5 or 8?
Mike-
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01-31-2019, 07:48 PM -
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by ClaudeCWhat are the safest ways to remove a cylinder head
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05-01-2020, 12:47 PM -
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by JDupuisPutting a rebuilt engine together.
This head is standard, but must have been aftermarket.
Note the different castings....You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 4 photos.-
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01-05-2019, 11:14 AM -
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by Terry, NJHas anyone ever heard of a standard head thickness? If so, what is it? Here's the deal, I'm doing an engine and I have a couple of heads around, but I'm pretty sure they've been shaved. I'm looking for a standard thickness dimension so I can tell just how much. I have a Police head (B) that doesn't appear to have been cut and I have an old head that I don't think has ever been touched, but it means...
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01-02-2019, 01:23 PM -
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