Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Painting a new cylinder head

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Painting a new cylinder head

    There's been lot of great discussion lately relating to my current project: changing the head. I've got a brand new 5:5 Snyder's head coming that will need to be painted. Does it need any prep or primer before applying the Ford green top coat?

  • #2
    First send it out to a machine shop and have it Machine flat. Everyone I purchase has been warped front to back, then blow out all holes & clean with thinner and paint.
    mike
    Michael
    1928 speedster
    1929 closed cab p/u
    1930 standard roadster
    1931 deluxe tudor sedan
    1967 ss/rs conv.camaro

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      What Mike said

  • #3
    would suggest lacquer thinner, not paint thinner, unless that is what was meant. Paint thinner leaves a residue and is generally gonna cause trouble when it comes to car paints

    Would also suggest spraying head down with Ospho (ACE hardware and others) , as a passivating agent. Then paint right over that.
    I just blasted and Ospho'd a B police head to get it ready for paint the other day. Will post a pic of the passivated head later today,

    There seems to be some confusion about using Ospho and other phosphoric acid agents. Some think you are supposed to wash it off with water. Not sure where that is coming from. BUT that is not what you want to do; you just removed your protection. The Ospho label states that if used on galvanized metal it MAY be washed off; but even then I am not sure why anyone would do that.

    For small jobs I use a plant mister bottle; for bigger jobs like panels I use a garden sprayer

    cyl heads.jpg

    That battleship gray that you see is iron phosphate, which is inert. We then directly apply Baril, or Zolatone, or similar DTM (direct-to-metal) urethane. You will have to re-sandblast the head to get it off. I believe captdan on this forum also uses this process for his cast iron.

    Tom W, that is a hi-comp head for my Stude M5 project; up 1.5 points from the stock head.
    Time to load the gun.......
    Last edited by tbirdtbird; 06-25-2017, 04:12 PM.

    Comment


    • #4
      i usually brake kleen it and paint.. but definitely get a skim cut.
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • #5
        OK. I'll let you know whether it needs to be skimmed. Thanks!

        Comment


        • BNCHIEF
          BNCHIEF commented
          Editing a comment
          Do not chance it just do it then you have peace of mind and head off would be problems. Correct head gasket and proper torqueing and re-torqueing.

      • #6
        I like to spray the bottom side of the head at least 1/2" in with a very light coat, so rust doesn't form at the edge.
        The spray can paint is thin enough to not cause a problem.

        Comment


        • #7
          Good tips! There have been other discussions of the torquing and head stud selection issues that I've followed with interest.There were also threads on the head gasket selection. Interesting that Bert's doesn't even carry the so-called "premium" head gasket... the silicone one that is advertised with extra silicone bands around all water passages and does not require any sealant. In a recent phone call, they told me they've had problems with them so I'm going with the Best gasket. Tom's thought about painting the bottom side edge sound like a good idea. I'll let you know how it turns out! Hope I can get it back together in time for the 4th of July parade! Thanks.

          Comment


          • #8
            ya, that silicone one was a good idea gone all wrong.......

            Comment


            • #9
              Just scrub it with T.S.P. & spray on engine paint, it'll look GREAT.---- TOO much thinking will make your head hurt!
              Bill Simple

              Comment


              • tbirdtbird
                tbirdtbird commented
                Editing a comment
                TSP has gone the way of the EPA

              • Guest's Avatar
                Guest commented
                Editing a comment
                TSP is still available. Get the original full strength one in the red box. The green label box is the neutered version. Red Devil. Lowes.

            • #10
              NOT in my Carriage House, I have enough T.S.P. to last me 'til I CROAK!
              By the way, T.S.P. mixed with water, to a pancake batter consistency, is a SAFE, but SLOW paint stripper.
              Bill Cleanerthanmostfolks
              Last edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 06-23-2017, 08:16 PM.

              Comment


              • #11
                Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post
                would suggest lacquer thinner, not paint thinner, unless that is what was intended. Paint thinner leaves a residue and is generally gonna cause trouble when it comes to car paints

                Would also suggest spraying head down with Ospho (ACE hardware and others) , as a passivating agent. Then paint right over that.
                I just blasted and Ospho'd a B police head to get it ready for paint the other day. Will post a pic of the passivated head later today,

                There seems to be some confusion about using Ospho and other phosphoric acid agents. Some think you are supposed to wash it off with water. Not sure where that is coming from. BUT that is not what you want to do; you just removed your protection. The Ospho label states that if used on galvanized metal it MAY be washed off; but even then I am not sure why anyone would do that

                cyl heads.jpg

                That battleship gray that you see is iron phosphate, which is inert. We then directly apply Baril, or Zolatone, or similar DTM (direct-to-metal) urethane. You will have to re-sandblast the head to get it off. I believe captdan on this forum also uses this process for his cast iron.

                Tom W, that is a hi-comp head for my Stude M5 project; up 1.5 points from the stock head.
                Time to load the gun.......
                This exactly!

                Comment


                • #12
                  So my head's hurtin' and Bill maybe right that I'm thinkin' (always dangerous) too much, BUT: Judging by tbirds pictures I guess it doesn't hurt anything to get Ospho on the bosses, in the threads or on the underside of the head where the gasket goes????

                  Comment


                  • tbirdtbird
                    tbirdtbird commented
                    Editing a comment
                    that is correct

                    I should add that many years ago this type of phosphoric acid treatment was available directly from DuPont as "Metal Prep"

                • #13
                  I had forgotten about Metal-Prep, Auto Shop Teacher taught us about It, back in the '50s. We also used it over LEADED areas, for primer "GRIP"---
                  Bill W.

                  Comment


                  • #14
                    'K. Thanks. Me and my brain are takin' the rest of the weekend off. Bill: Looks like a hot day down your way. Hope you and the dawg kin find a shady spot!

                    Comment


                    • #15
                      Just one (1) opinion.

                      After witnessing so many vintage automotive paint failures, my goal is to go through life preparing Model A parts and providing coatings on Model A parts once in a life time.

                      After looking at hundreds of painted Model A vintage engines in Model A's, and hundreds of painted engine in photographs "after" engines are at least five (5) years old, one clearly sees rust along the top of the block and the bottom of the head adjacent to the head gasket and many times peeling paint adjacent to same.

                      My engine, transmission, differential, and undercarriage was all prepared with all POR 15 products and finally coated with POR 15 products.

                      Not one speck of rust after ten (10) years and I think this coating could last at least another 100 years ....... if in doubt ..... just ask Mr. ***** ..... one of the very few other Model A owners who learned years ago how to use these very special POR 15 preparation products and these very special POR 15 final coatings.

                      Comment

                      Related Topics

                      Collapse

                      • smittykid
                        Prepping head prior to painting
                        by smittykid
                        I just purchased a 5.5:1 high comp. head from Snyder's. I'm sending the short block out to the folks in Skokie, Il. for a rebuild. I checked with them and they use the same paint that Snyder's sells. I want to paint the head before I get the block back. I think I know what to do regarding prepping and painting the head, but I wanted to double check with you guys first. Thanks in advance, Smi...
                        07-28-2017, 08:04 AM
                      • 1crosscut
                        O-Ring for torquing head
                        by 1crosscut
                        I just installed a high compression head on my AA yesterday. While torquing a head after a fresh paint job it is easy to mar the paint around the nuts especially since the torque has to be done in multiple steps. In the past I was always careful (sometimes not careful enough) to keep the socket lifted up a bit to keep from damaging the paint. I got to thinking a ways to make this simpler and more...
                        02-22-2020, 06:40 PM
                      • thom
                        cracked head
                        by thom
                        This morning the cylinder head cracked on our '28 coupe. I cranked it and drove off in it without checking the level in the radiator, but I had checked it last evening and it was good. There was no sign of leakage under the car or water/coolant showing on the oil dipstick. Shortly after startup, I heard a whistling sound and stopped to check it out. There is a crack across the head about 2/3 back...
                        10-04-2019, 12:46 PM
                      • Brent
                        Head Off - What do you see?
                        by Brent
                        I was getting a good amount of seepage around the head so I pulled it yesterday to replace the gasket. Before putting the head back on, I wanted to check with the group. Do you see anything of concern? Aside from a little bit of clean up, should I be doing anything else? Compression readings were 44, 50, 47, 49.

                        Thanks,
                        Brent
                        03-17-2019, 07:01 AM
                      • 1930artdeco
                        head puller
                        by 1930artdeco
                        Hi All,

                        I blew a head gasket, water in oil etc. so I am doing a couple of things all at once to her. Now I am down to gasket replacement. I am looking at two different head pullers which one is best for a REALLY REALLY stuck head:

                        1) Eye bolt that goes in the plug hole
                        2) The long multi position head/engine puller that also goes into the plug holes (don't know how else...
                        01-28-2019, 06:19 PM
                      • Mitch
                        Cylinder head removal 101
                        by Mitch
                        Here is the story fwiw!!

                        Quote:

                        6/4/2020 by Bill Leonard. MARC FaceBook

                        I AM SHARING THIS TO SHOW EVERYONE THE DARK SIDE OF REMOVING A VERY VERY SEIZED CYLINDER HEAD. I am keenly aware of the do’s and don’t, know the must-do cleaning and cautions to make sure all the shavings are out of the cylinders, valves, etc. as we install new studs and a high compression...
                        06-05-2020, 08:30 PM
                      • 1930artdeco
                        head studs
                        by 1930artdeco
                        Ok I am looking for a consensus about this. When I built this engine years ago I installed grade 8 head studs as I added the 5.5 head. Now, I am assuming they are still good as I only have about 10-15k on the engine. But what did Ford use originally with the high comp heads grade 5 or 8?

                        Mike
                        01-31-2019, 06:48 PM
                      • ClaudeC
                        removing the cylinder head
                        by ClaudeC
                        What are the safest ways to remove a cylinder head
                        05-01-2020, 11:47 AM
                      • JDupuis
                        Markings on Model A head
                        by JDupuis
                        Putting a rebuilt engine together.
                        This head is standard, but must have been aftermarket.
                        Note the different castings....
                        01-05-2019, 10:14 AM
                      • Terry, NJ
                        Cylinder head thickness
                        by Terry, NJ
                        Has anyone ever heard of a standard head thickness? If so, what is it? Here's the deal, I'm doing an engine and I have a couple of heads around, but I'm pretty sure they've been shaved. I'm looking for a standard thickness dimension so I can tell just how much. I have a Police head (B) that doesn't appear to have been cut and I have an old head that I don't think has ever been touched, but it means...
                        01-02-2019, 12:23 PM
                      Working...
                      X