I've just joined the Forum and looking through it so that I do not appear too stupid! I just purchase a 1930 2-dr coupe and it does have a steering problem. Almost impossible to steer. Checked the lubricant by removing the filler nut and could see NO lubricant! What lubricant needs to be used in the steering box? I'm reasonably sure that it will also need adjusting or maybe parts replacement. It's a simple question about lubricant, but couldn't find it anywhere so far. Appreciate any answers and suggestions.
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Steering box lube question
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Also be sure to jack up the front end and grease all the steering and suspension fittings. Even my little Original Cub Cadet starts to steer hard when the front axle pins need more grease. If it still turns hard after lubing the steering box and parts, then the steering may need to be rebuilt. It sure made a nice difference on my friend's 29 Tudor.
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Kev there are no dumb questions here. Shoot away3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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When doing adjustment #1 in Beauford’s link do not tighten the bolt to much or you’ll crack the bearing cage. Just a light snug is enough to remove the endplay.3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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The original oil was called 600W. That is not 600 weight. It is a heavy pressure steam oil designed for straight cut gears which is what is in the A. Of course the oils were changed over time and the curent oil if you wish to buy bulk is call 680W depending on brand. You can also contact the guy selling steam oil and get smaller quantities http://steamenginelube.com
Re: Mobile 636 gear oil
[Follow Ups] [Post Followup] [******** Model A Discussion Forum]
Posted by Marco Tahtaras from c-24-4-43-195.hsd1.ca.comcast.net (24.4.43.195) on Saturday, August 09, 2008 at 9:38AM :
In Reply to: Mobile 636 gear oil posted by Bob from ? (64.237.121.113) on Friday, August 08, 2008 at 10:35PM :
Mobil:
Mobilgear 636 (Which has been replaced with MOBILGEAR 600xp 680 11/27/2011)
BP:
Energol GR-XP 680
Castrol:
Castrol Alpha LS680
Shell:
Omala 680
Texaco:
Meropa 680
Here is some more info
Re: 600W Thickness -- One (1) Answer
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Posted by H. L. Chauvin on Nov. 26, 2011 at 16:34:03
In Reply to: Re: 600W Thickness, Transmission Gear Grinding
posted by louis on Nov. 25, 2011 at 17:19:35
Hi Louis,
Your former question made sense when someone new to this Forum reads "all" of the many "different" former 600W discussions in the attached archives.
It appears most "salespersons", (parts suppliers & oil compaies), offer the 1930's 600W substitute, but as Marco noted in the archives in the late 1990's, they are "not" all the same.
Many articles appear on experiences of switching to thicker transmission oil; thus eliminating driver's not experiencing grinding of transmission gears.
Gear oil thickness, (resistance to flow), is measured by several methods.
Kinematic Viscosity per ASTM D445 is one standard method indicating the milimeters squared divided by time in seconds at 40 degrees C, or 104 degrees F, which is closest to trasmission gear oil viscosity after attaining operating temperature.
For example, per ASTM 445, water has low viscosity, honey has high viscosity.
The recommended BP Energol 680, Shell Omala 680, Mobile Extra Helca Super Cylider Oil 680, have ASTM 445 measured viscosities, (40 C), of a high 680; Texaco Mepora 680 indicates a thinner 646; however, Valvoline 85/140W drops down to 395, & Castrol 85/140W is thiner at 369.
One of the "most" scientific test conducted on Ford's 1930 recommended 600W appears to be a gentleman who wrote that he had an old sealed can of
Ford's recommended 600W.
After trying many gear oil substitutes, his highly scientific lab test indicated that the 600W was extremely thick, almost like melted tar, & equal to the above mentioned 680 viscosities.
His test, he dipped his finger in each & watched it flow!
It appears if one uses recommended gear oil with a viscosity of 680, & gears continue to grind, begin looking somewhere else.
Hope this helps 1930's future 600W research.
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"The Mobil Cylinder Oil brand of lubricants represents the earliest lubricant product marketed by our Corporation's predecessor companies. 600W Cylinder Oil was produced by the Vacuum Oil Company in the second half of the 19th century and was a breakthrough product of its time. Continual upgrading and application of the latest base oil and additive technology has maintained this product series as a leader in its application areas. While steam cylinder applications are now less common, the reputation of Mobil Cylinder Oils in worm gear applications remains unmatched among mineral-based products."
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Be sure the tires are rolling before trying to turn the wheel. A barely perceptible roll will make a huge difference
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check tie rod and drag link ends to see if they aren't too tight,check king pins for lube and freedom and make sure the cars load is against the king pin bearing..a whole bunch of things can make them steer hard,do the box first but it pays to check everything from the steering wheel to the tires.
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The "600 w" supplied by vendors is pretty much equivalent to 140 wt. gear oil. One can go Restoration Supply (restorationstuff.com) and see their products. We've had Lubriplate SPO 299 on hand for years (as an alternate to the Penrite lube) and is pretty thick stuff that can be used in many pre ww2 cars. (Not some with hypoid rear ends).
One knows it's thick with gear changes at cold start up !Last edited by plyfor; 01-11-2018, 10:09 PM.
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Kevin I've had good luck using John Deere Corn Head Grease, buy it at your local JD dealership.
Deere engineered the stuff to act somewhat 'fluid' inuse and then it kinda solidifies at 'rest'. The gear boxes on the corn heads would leak just like our Model A steering boxes.
Use it in the steering box only, not the tranny or rear end.
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I use 250 weight gear oil in the steering box, transmission, and rear end. Has been working good for 43 years.
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Hello forum, my name is Glen Williams and I live in Blue Springs, MO. I have a 1930 Tudor that has a Gemmer steering box that has a grease cup on top instead of a filling plug for 600w oil. Is this a mod someone added to it or did it come with it and actually use some type of grease to lube the steering box? I'll try to upload some photos in a bit if I can figure it out. Thanks for any help.
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by Mach.8My 1929 Town Sedan has a 7 tooth steering box with a zerk on the box which I remove and add W600 and a zerk on the sector shaft which I attempt to grease. It won't take any grease. I removed the zerk, put it in the vise and pumped grease through it, no restriction. The hole in the sector shaft casing seems to be a dead end. The bottom is machined steel with no grease hole. I jacked up the front...
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To fix a leaking steering column, the repro houses offer a "O" ring and a thin, flat washer, which goes on the end of the steering sector shaft, to fix the problem.
For those of you who have tried this "fix"...does it work?
Thanks.
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One problem we all have, well most of us, is the application of the so called 600W oil to our steering columns.
And that is a leaking steering column IF the column is not buttoned up or rebuilt in taking special intrest in those areas that will allow the oil to eventually leak out like through bolt holes and worn bushings in the sector shaft area that DO allow oil to escape.
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For those of you who have restored the EARLY 7-tooth steering column, what did you do to prevent the column from leaking oil from around the Steering Worm Sector?
How I wish Ford would of put a greese zerk on the early column (but I won't).
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