I need to ask how many already have 12v systems installed

[DaWizard]

Since I live in the Dizzyland area with all the tourists renting cars and the locals driving like idiots to avoid the tourists, my total building of this "barn find" '28 Tudor has been souly around safety.

Since there have been enormous strides in LED technology, the first thing I did was convert the electrical over to 12v neg chassis. You will note that I did not use the word "ground" because to me that is another potential, but in some instances it is the same thing as chassis so the words can be swapped. So when I use chassis, it means "frame" not "ground".

I did keep the "look" of the original Powerhouse generator by purchasing a dead one and pulling it apart and with a bit of machining out the inside, fit a 12v 35amp self energizing nipon alternator. I don't have pictures of the inside or mounting, but I do have pics of the finished alternator if anyone wishes to see what it looks like. But will only post those upon request, or better will email upon request.

With this in mind I asked myself what was the most deficient area of the Model A for safety? Well, with the single left taillight that was the first place I started to upgrade my A. So I purchased a right hand bracket, painted it, drilled and mounted it to the car and bought 2 of the "teacup" LED taillights, which are way too large for the drums, which I have. So, the belt sander earns it's keep and adjusts the size of the LEDs and with a bit of metal work with the inside brackets of the drum I have some nice bright stop and tail lights, thanks to the LEDs. Now, I don't think I will tear apart the lights to take pictures, but I'm sure you folk reading this can imagine just what it took to do this.

If this topic is welcomed, I will post more of what I have done for what I think is the safety this car needs. We'll see how this is accepted.

[DustDevil]

Though I've made some concessions with modernization for safety reasons, I didn't consider a conversion to 12v neg a safety issue, and therefore, I'm old-school here. My 6v + works just fine, with a weak horn with the headlights on. I have a single wire 6v alternator in my garage, but I just can't put it in yet. Some day I'll break down and do it. Even my Borg Warner O/D just sits in my garage until I get serious about touring with the club (who don't work, by the way). They have all the time in the world (till their number comes up; we've lost 6 to old age since January) to futz around with their cars. Hopefully I will someday be like them and get to reach the back burners and ketch up before I join them at the great Hershey's in the sky.

[DaWizard]

Thank You

I can appreciate you wanting to keep the car stock.

If you didn't know, they do make the LEDs in a 6v+ to give even the stockers a bit of an advantage, which I strongly recommend. There is nothing like sitting side by side with a stock and LED cars and stepping on the brake. It is night and day different.

[DustDevil]

I agree that LED's are a solution to a safety issue. They look too modern, but do help people see you. I still have one taillight, and i know it's not safe. I have a thing about drilling into a virgin fender to install the right side. See how I am?

[DaWizard]

Understood, Thank You

[tbirdtbird]

My view is that , if you drive or tour much, you may be enjoying your totally stock A, including very dim tail light, from your hospital bed if the guy behind you slams into you. If nothing else, I'd like my wife to be as safe as possible in the car. I have the original hardware in a box and it can all be put back to stock quickly if needed.

It would be interesting to note that in 1930 there were few if any streetlights, and no where near the amount of nighttime ambient light as we have now. Thus the 'dim' by today's standards taillight(s) actually stood out.

When I am on I-30, doing 65, I can be confident my brake lights can be seen.

Your mileage may vary

[BNCHIEF]

Couldn't agree more.

[CarlG]

To answer the original question -- I have 12 volts installed in my pickup.

[Patrick]

I don't use 12v, don't see a need to. After being rear ended by a #&%@ soccer mom I changed to LEDs and all red lenses. I don't see a need for an alternator either. JMHO

It took awhile to get used to the rear lights and lens, I don't notice the difference any more. Well, not very much anyway.

If I did ever decide to change to 12v, I'd use a regular ole generator. Alternators just don't look right. Again JMHO

[BNCHIEF]

I use 12 v for various reasons and if it is your car it your choice, I like to tour others do short jaunts and number of reasons to do different things.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

The question wasn't for JUSTIFICATION, it was, "HOW MANY"???--Ask us an EASY question, like, "HOW LONG IS A STRING"???---It's THIS l---------------------------------------------------------------------------------l LONG!-- Did I WIN?
Bill W.

[BNCHIEF]

Bill you always win, i do not have to justify anything it is my car and as i stated at the beginning i use 12 volt, you failed to state what kind of string, what tensile strength or color. Can't help but like a guy with a sense of humor.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

BNCHIEF & OTHERS,
I hope to hell: I don't BURN you out with my so called, "HUMOR"--Without it, I couldn't get through all the TRAUMAS I've been through in the last 20 years or so! Also, I think it helps folks REMEMBER good advice & help.
The Dog: AGREES & he knows a lot of Model A stuff, also. Just ask him a question, sometime!
Bill Blabber

[BNCHIEF]

Continue on Bill I like a guy that has the backbone to say what he thinks, I was a drill instructor for 10 years so you are not gonna bruise my feelings. I had a boss who told me one day you know you do not intimidate very easy. We both still laugh about that today.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I was s DRILL INSTRUCTOR, once, taught Cindy how to drill a STRAIGHT HOLE.
Dad

[JtownJoe]

Switched my 30' Tudor to 12 V about 5 years ago. Got tired of replacing 6 volt batteries every 2-3 years. Bought a 12V Optima, it's been excellent, and makes any accessories easy to work with if you use yours alot.

[Foxfire]

I had to go to 12V in order to have AC. I did a lot of inquiring and research to find if there was a usable unit that would work on 6V. First checked with Ken Davis but the answer was 12V only. I even tried to see if there was a way of installing a separate 12V system. I just relented and did the switch. I live in Arizona and with the weather getting warmer in the winter months now it's almost mandatory. With the heat from the engine (I don't have the floor and firewall insulated) and heat from outside it gets miserable. I have another driver I would like to add AC to so if anyone knows of a solution for a 6V AC I'm interested.

I have two 6V Optima's wired parallel. It's easy to change to 12V by rewiring them in series so I don't have to buy a battery. If only there was some kind of design where I could get 12V out of it just for the AC and leave the rest of the "A" 6V.

Barb

[Corley]

Easy. Just tap your 6v off the center of your two batteries, leaving them in serries. Will be negative ground 6v though. Really, you should convert the headlights and starter (high current devices) to 12v though, but the rest could be 6v. But, why?

[CarlG]

Back in the dark ages ('50s) and lived in Phoenix, had a 54 Ford that I installed a/c. I put a 12v alternator and battery. Tapped the battery in the middle for all the 6v stuff. Ran the a/c on 12v. Worked great.

[DaWizard]

In my youth I had a '42 Super Deluxe Ford 4dr sedan, with a 6/12 battery that came center tapped and with a continuous duty selenoid to keep both sides charged off the generator. Used 12v for just the starter, sure whipped that 8BA flatty around!!

Damn I wished I still had that car...had a 26tooth Lincoln trans with a Columbia 2speed rear end. That car would haul ass.

[tbirdtbird]

haha Carl I bet the battery had the external lead straps connecting the cells! You could do that ! Did it myself

[tbirdtbird]

Foxfire, I have the Ken Davis setup too. Else not really gonna be able to use the car in the summer in Texas. In fact, he is a neighbor. I'll have to write up an AC thread one of these days. Purists, do not read! Our club is gonna tour Yellowstone this August, and do the Natchez Trace next summer.Some AC needed for both.

Ken will point out to you that a boatload of heat comes off that firewall, and really wants you to insulate it
Make a template of the firewall from cardboard, including all the holes and punch outs. Look around in a Bed Bath and Beyond or similar place for small runner carpets. Pick your color. Cut to size. Use contact cement and duct tape on the back for "serging". Not seen. I used the edges of the kick panels to help hold it in. I also removed the two 1/4-20 coil bolts, and swapped them out for longer ones. Then on the inside, I used fender washers over the carpet, held in place with wing nuts.Works like a charm. Looks like correct carpet run up the firewall

At the very least use an extra layer of carpet, or some fab-mat, on the floor under your regular carpet. That danged ol' muffler is not far away!

[Mitch]

what about those pre made fire wall insulators being sold by the suppliers? once installed it's hard to tell your not looking at the real firewall

[tbirdtbird]

I'm OK with that. When I needed one, tho, they were out of production with no arrival date in sight. Thus I made my own

[CarlG]

I have one of the premade firewall insulators. Works and looks great. I also got matching kick panels and insulated behind them as well.

[DaWizard]

Carl, who did you get it from, and were the kick panels separate without the rest of the interior?

[CarlG]

I got the firewall piece from Mike's. it was drop shipped from the manufacturer -- Quiet Ride. I went directly to them for the kick panels.

[DaWizard]

Thanks

[2manycars]

My cars are still 6 volt, and they are fine like that. My LED third brake light work fine. I dont need AC. An Aries muffler will prevent the floor from getting hot. I have driven my tudor for 42 years with no AC, no "modern" points, 6 volts, mechanical brakes, original headlights, 21 inch tires, and no white walls. Call me old fashioned, but it works just fine, like it did in 1929.

[Greynomad]

I have 3 Model As, all 12 v. The first one was converted so I could run a CB radio when we were touring outback and a fridge and electric brakes on the camper trailer and then there was the issue of finding such mundane things as a replacement globe out there. 12v - easy. 6 v would only get blank looks.
The other 2 were 12v when I got them. I have installed a radio/memory stick player in one since and it will probably get a CB later too. On 12v, I can get better lights too.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Wiz,
Friend, Hurshel, had a '46 Tudor, '54 Lincoln Engine, 26 tooth trans, 3:54s & 8:20s. Second was PASSING gear & we went 2/3rds the way to the COAST, in SECOND GEAR!!
Bill Brownskivies

[DaWizard]

HAHAHA !!! Yes they were!

[tbirdtbird]

2many, what state are you in?

If I did not want AC I would have left the car 6V, it ran fine that way

[2manycars]

2many, what state are you in?

If I did not want AC I would have left the car 6V, it ran fine that way

I am in eastern Connecticut. It does get hot here in July and August, but with the windshield open and the windows open, all is fine.

[tbirdtbird]

ever go to that show in Redding? The one the King brothers sponsor at their estate? Used to be in Norwalk. Has run longer than Hershey, I believe. Some super primo very early stuff there.
http://townofreddingct.org/event/red...iety-car-show/

Too late for this year, but check it out next year. You won't be sorry

[CarlG]

12 volt group 25 battery fit Model A perfectly.

[plyfor]

My car came to me with a 12volt set up, LED rear tails and all the other equipment ,etc. The turn signals have been an issue perhaps created by the LED's lack of resistance; they operate fine when under battery power alone with out the alternator but tend to "race" under charging. Evidently the vendors sell a 12volt flasher now to accommodate this. Anyone else have this issue?

[DaWizard]

There are relays out now that do not rely on the resistance of the light. These have a 555 timer in them, but are polarity sensitive. They do work very well for LED lights of all sorts.

[Dennis]

I bought the electronic high caflutin flasher from Snyder's and it DOES NOT work with incandescent bulbs. I tossed it in a box, went down to parts store and bought the plain jane version and I have almost the best flashers of all my 4 cars.