L/R Axle threads

[Beauford]

So all the switching, torquing and pulling hubs these threads decided to give. With the washer on the nut won't bite. Washer off she bites to 100lbs. I have a chaser ordered and some of those ARP nuts. I am hoping the chaser will work as the threads are still there. I'm not set up to redo a whole rear end as I'm not replacing one axle and not go through the whole thing.

[Beauford]

[DaWizard]

Hey Beauford, when you ordered the ARP nuts, did you order the ones with the flange? Also, since I believe those threads are 5/8-18, did you also order a 9/16-18 die and flanged nuts?

The reason I ask is because, just because you can see threads doesn't mean there is enough to grab hold and keep it tight without the cotter pin.

If I were to do this, I would also think about taking the axle to the next size smaller thread since I believe the 9/16-18 thread will also take the 100# torque.

Using this chart it will take 129# https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx

[Beauford]

Yup..ordered with flange. I'm hoping a chaser will realign what's there.

[DaWizard]

Well, the chaser will align what you have, but trying to hold on with half thread height won't give enough purchase to hold tight.

[Beauford]

Anyone have any luck with form a thread?

[DaWizard]

Beauford, I have never used any product that rebuilt outside threads. I wish I could give you an informed answer.

[Beauford]

Ill see what these nuts do tomorrow. Me and the ones I ordered. LOL

[Tom Wesenberg]

Anyone have any luck with form a thread?

I had good luck with it back about 1980 to build up the female thread in the aluminum clutch handle on my BMW motorcycle, but I wouldn't trust it for an axle thread with such high torque. I rethreaded an axle after building the thread up with brazing, and it worked fine. Several have used the 9/16-18 thread as mentioned.

[DaWizard]

Ya know, I was sitting here thinking about the flanged nuts and wondered if you couldn't shave a bit off the flange keeping it flat of course, to give you a bit more thread bite.

Are those just the standard flanged nuts, or are they the self locking as well?

If they are the self locking style I don't think removing a bit off the flange would hurt it.

You just have to remember that the nut is the only thing keeping the hubs on the taper, that key is only there as a guide to hold it while you tighten up the nut.

[tbirdtbird]

as these cars get older this becomes more of a problem.
For starters I never go more than 90#

there was another thread on here about this, I think it was Bob (carolinamudwalker)

[Mike V. Florida]

use a metric die and a metric castle nut.

[DaWizard]

Mike, what size metric thread is that, and are you sure they make a castle nut for it?

[DaWizard]

Ok, after doing some research, to answer my own question to Mike, it looks to me like the closest metric thread would be a M16x2 coarse thread, and if you want a fine thread it would be the 9/16-18.

Now, reading what I can it tells me the 5/8-18 is .5625 and the M16x2 is .5512 so if dropping the .0113 is going to be enough of a difference to allow a good tight thread and IF there is a M16x2 castle nut available, I'd say it's worth a shot. The one thing I don't know about these two threads is how many threads per inch the metric thread is, so using that to rethread the 5/8-18 could be totally destroying all the thread including the base, at which time, you will need to go to 9/16-18.

Now, if that doesn't afford enough threads to get a good 85 to 95# torque, then I'd say take it down to 9/16-18 because we know we can get a nut and at least 90# torque.

[Mike V. Florida]

What you are looking to do is to remove the threads, re-tap and use a new nut. If I'm reading the charts correctly once the threads are removed you are left with .5568". That is close to 9/16" (.5625) and 14 mm (.5512). 14 mm will give you most "meat" and 14x1.5 castle nuts are available.

[Greynomad]

You could also use the Metric Fine series. 14mm metric fine has a pitch of 1.5mm. The original 18 tpi equates to a pitch of 1.4mm. That's pretty darned close to the same.

[Beauford]

Thanks guys! I'll keep you updated when nuts and chaser arrives and then go from there.

[Mitch]

I'm with Dave on using less torque, even with good threads..

[CM2]

Its about loading the hub on the taper,so less torque will work with proper preparation.

[George Miller]

So all the switching, torquing and pulling hubs these threads decided to give. With the washer on the nut won't bite. Washer off she bites to 100lbs. I have a chaser ordered and some of those ARP nuts. I am hoping the chaser will work as the threads are still there. I'm not set up to redo a whole rear end as I'm not replacing one axle and not go through the whole thing.

If the threads are gone they are gone. a chaser is not going to put metal back there. your only chance is to build up the threads or go to a smaller size.

[Beauford]

Seems like anyway I look at it I will be pulling the rear and as I have stated it will not be just to replace the one end. Might as well do a complete rebuild or anyone know where I can source a good one? I'm on a time line to have this done by spring.

[Mitch]

I would just tap it to a smaller size as was mentioned.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Since you already have a thread chaser coming, give it a try first. I also agree with Dave and Mitch that 90# is enough torque.
If the chaser and 90# doesn't work, then go to the next step.

[Beauford]

Fingers crossed....at least there is a option to save my back and shoulder. One more slight tear and it's rotator surgery. With this truck I can't afford missing work or Brattons will stop delivering. LOL

[tbirdtbird]

Good luck. I have seen people go to 9/16 and if they don't go wild with torque it does work. You try not to remove your hubs on a weekly basis.

If you decide to cut new 9/16 threads be sure to use a brand new fresh die, this way you'll get the best threads possible in this critical area. Back off often, and use plenty of lube

Yes HAHA I am asleep at the switch, of course 9/16

[Mitch]

You mean 9/16th?

[Beauford]

****Update**** got my ARP nuts today. I screwed one on by hand and right away you can tell how tight they fit unlike the vendor nuts that have a slight giggle. I went as far as I could by hand and it stopped so I will wait on chaser before putting a wrench on it. As hard as these nuts are they probably would cut new threads.

[Mitch]

Sounds like your on the road to recovery

[Beauford]

If only weather hadnt delayed my chaser in Kansas. Amazing you can not source one locally.

[carolinamudwalker]

They should go on far enough so you still can use a cotter pin or a roll pin without the washer of course. I use a split thread chaser so you can start back on the good threads and work your way out over the bad threads. I put a hose clamp over the chaser and tightened it down until it takes the shape of the chaser. Now you can progressively chase the threads a little at a time by tightening the hose clamp and use a large crescent wrench. Sorry for the late response, been out of town.

[Beauford]

Carolina, your thread gave me the idea! So thank you for that! My threads are good at the stop and bad where I need them so a solid thread chase is what I ordered. I really like the tightness of these fasteners. I don't think the chaser will be delivered until monday and I am on the road all week during that time but should know some thing next weekend.

[tbirdtbird]

So, Bob, when you worked on yours this way you got it fixed? I don't remember a conclusion to your thread

[carolinamudwalker]

Yes Dave, The threads look good now and hold 100 lbs torque. Keep in mind that my threads were buggerd up on the end from the cheep puller. I even had to drill out the cotter pin hole. Have not road tested yet as engine is still out of the car.

[Beauford]

Carolina, did you find they were a tight fit? I tried one on the good side and will only go on a few turns by hand. The vendor nut goes on but as you know they are a loose fit. I will chase both sides first before I screw them up more.

[carolinamudwalker]

Beauford, Our cases are different. My threads were bad on the end so I could not start any nut. That is why I chased them from the inside with a split thread chaser. Your threads look worn and maybe rolled from age and over tightening. Once you clean them up I think you will find that both nuts will go on but the ARP nuts will give you about 5 more threads. If you put on Brattens nuts (not all the way) and they don't rock you are probably good to go with them. Bob

[Beauford]

Sounds good, Bob! Thanks for the 411!

[Beauford]

Received some new rear axle nuts today from Brattons. Much tighter as well by hand and black in color. Can't remember where I got the other nuts but boy they are so much more loose.

[CM2]

Start hitting craigslist,I find complete rear axles for 100 to 150 bucks.like anything else its a crapshoot,but I got a nice one for 75 bucks last fall.

[Beauford]

If all else fails that will be my route.....