Happy New Year VFF !!!!! I am trying to figure out if my engine has been gone through before......I took off the valve cover (if anyone wants a Winfield valve cover PM me) to reseal and inspect because of leaks. I noticed a pretty big nut behind the valves in the middle of the motor on the bottom of the valley this nut is a Ny-Lock....pretty sure they didnt have this back in the day. What is this nut for its behind the distributor shaft i believe. Im at work and cannot get a picture of it at this time. Is the Ny-Lock safe in the heat??
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reckon your talking about your center main bearing bolt nut. Originally a castellated nut and cotter pin.
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Sounds like someone didn't want to fight the cotter pin.Comment
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Will the Ny-Lock nut last?????? And what other ares can i look to tell/see if it was been gone through previously?Originally posted by aford193031 View Post
Thanks Pat
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I think it will last OK, but I like to stay original with castle nuts and cotter pins.Comment
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Castellated nut with cotter pin is what Ford used to lock a fastener.The problem with that arrangement is The fastener needs to loose its torque value before the cotter pin does its job.Modern locking arrangements are superior,though I dont use Nylocks on a torqued fastener they can be effective,I just did my mains with grade 8 nuts and hard washers,used a drop of loctite blue to lock the nut,unlike a Nylock,loctite doesnt alter the torque reading.Comment
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Red nylocks are good for heat
White nylocks aren't
How much heat? It's been way too many years for me to remember :-(Comment
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You also need to remove the oil pan to replace that nut.Originally posted by Chevmn56 View PostComment
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"THERMAL PROPERTIES Most nylon insert locknuts are manufactured from Zytel 101 which has an effective temperature range up to 250 ° F. Zytel 103 has a higher effective range to 350 ° F and can be special ordered for your higher heat applications."
Remember, that nut is also cooled by the flow of oil in and around the valve chamber. I don't think there is a need to change it back to castle and cotter pin.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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Wiz...chime in anytime on my posts. Mitch always makes me spend money. LOLComment
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Never really thought about my front spring perches too much when building my car until I saw a thread here on them. I know they were in good shape in the beginning as theres not much to them. I went under and noticed one of the special castle nuts was really bad..like some of the nut was missing on the backside. So ordered two new special nuts. While I wait I decided I should remove the nut. The nut...09-22-2018, 01:14 PM -
I went for a short ride tonight. Turned on the gas valve, etc. Drove around and when I got in my garage and attempted to turn off the gas, the little arm was missing. Found the arm and a small lock washer but no nut. So far, nothing I have fits. Valve is a 40 year old reproduction. Anyone know what the nut size and thread spacing are?...12-12-2021, 09:41 PM -
Let's say you buy U bolts to secure the rear spring, and they come too long, so you cut off the extra length, but now you need to drill a hole for the cotter pin. Buy a hex nut and scribe crisscross diagonal lines across the 4 corners of one flat side. Now center punch the exact center of that flat, which is where the lines cross. Clamp the nut in a drill press vice and be sure the flat is perfect...12-25-2017, 11:32 PM -
Ok Mitch, and everybody, Photo on far left is without using original washer but the ARP nut has the same diameter as the washer. Also there is room for cotter pin. Photo on far right is using the washer but no room for cotter pin. Both ways are using all the threads of the ARP nut. Photo #3 shows the rear puller that caused all my grief on the left. On the right is a work of art made by Mitchel...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 4 photos.11-22-2017, 09:29 AM -
I'm trying to remove the Landau bars on my 1931 Sport Coupe. A threaded bolt affair screws into a socket (long hex nut) that is attached to the wood on the inside of the fabric top. Problem; The threaded bolt is rusted into the long hex nut. I've tried "Corrosion X" and it won't budge. I don't want to tear into the fabric top to remove the long hex nut. I would like to replace the whole...10-20-2017, 10:33 AM -
When I rock my front wheels by the top of the tire I can feel a very slight movement between the brake drum and backing plate. How can I tell if it is loose bearings or kingpins?02-08-2018, 08:07 AM
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How can I tighten up the crankshaft pulley nut? During a valve adjustment on my engine, I used the bent Pulley wrench and inadvertently loosened the nut. How can I get it TIGHT?11-13-2018, 02:13 PM -
the water pump packing nut on a leakless sealed WP.
It says in the instructions that, the packing nut is kept loose and only tighten in case of emergency. If that is so, what keeps the nut from tightening on it's own while the shaft is rotating?03-05-2018, 03:58 PM -
My radial WW metal stem tubes came in. I have never installed tubes with metal stems, they have threads on them.
I asked Coker if i should have nuts and they said it does not matter, they can be installed with or without. I would think that the nuts would hold them in place and center them, but that is just a guess.
OK, what is the preference here, nuts or no nuts?03-12-2019, 04:48 PM -
Hmmm
Jan 28 parts book calls out A-21789
And describes it as a castle nut
As does the December 29 parts book
The standards call out a slotted nut.
I'll be using the slotted nut, but which is correct? Slotted or castle?
Also find it interesting that it pretty much is the only nut specifically called...12-22-2021, 08:16 PM
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