Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

grinding a crankshaft in a engine lathe

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • grinding a crankshaft in a engine lathe

    Here is how I grind my own crankshafts. Takes longer, but I can get them the way I want.

  • #2
    Is it me, or are the pictures unviewable?
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      They did not show for me either

    • Dennis
      Dennis commented
      Editing a comment
      They might be an incorrect file type.

    • CarlG
      CarlG commented
      Editing a comment
      Don't work for me either.

    • George Miller
      George Miller commented
      Editing a comment
      they showed up on mine

  • #3
    image_5223.jpgimage_5222.jpg Try again

    Comment


    • George Miller
      George Miller commented
      Editing a comment
      Did you get them this time

    • DaWizard
      DaWizard commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes George, nice setup, could you do a video of that working?

      I know, all they want is more more, and more. Never satisfied.

    • George Miller
      George Miller commented
      Editing a comment
      could I do a video not me i do not know how. But maybe I could get my Son to do one. The grinder goes up and down as you grind the rods.

    • Dennis
      Dennis commented
      Editing a comment
      I see them now.

  • #4
    Wish I had the equipment. Better yet, the skill to use it.
    George, I can see how you can machine the main journals, but unlike a crank machine, I don't get how you are able to do the rod journals

    Comment


    • George Miller
      George Miller commented
      Editing a comment
      This is a grinder that I used in my Dads garage to grind rod journals while the engine was in the car. I did this when I was a Teen. We lived in northern Mich. Lots of people came up there on vacation in the summer from the big cites.

      The plymouths 6 were bad about burning out a rod bearing when they had not had there oil changed when it was time.I would grind the rod journal in the car. Then they could get back home.

      We also had a regular crank grinder so I have a lot of experience grinding cranks.

      Any that I had done in recent years are not careful to get the flywheel flange running with in .0005 like it should be. Plus they force grinding the center main and cause it to run out. Model A crank is flimsy so you have to be careful.

      It does not show to good but there is two rails and a center guide that the grinder rides on. It goes up and down as the crank turns. You can adjust it to get the tapper out.
      Last edited by George Miller; 12-27-2017, 03:00 PM.

  • #5
    So how do you assure that the grinding is on the center you want?

    That is I believe this machine only makes things round based on the distance from the grinding wheel to the V. So if I understand it correct then the grinder will make the center offset on any uneven wear. So the center main wears 180 out from the end mains and so this could end up with your centerlines offset.

    You also can not correct for previous bad grinds. If someone ground off center (which happens more then you might think) then it will only make the surface round on that new center.

    Are my assumptions correct or am I missing something?

    Comment


    • George Miller
      George Miller commented
      Editing a comment
      As far as being on center, just indicate the crank in on the lathe.

      Well it was not meant to do mains, but it works fine for me. You just feed the stone in with the cross feed on the lathe. You take the tapper out with the adjust meant on the grinder. You do not use the vee for the mains, just the rods. But yes you are at there mercy of the one before you on the rods.

      Yes you can correct cranks that were ground off, that is why I do my own.
      Yes it would be easier with a big crankgrinder but I use what I have.
      Last edited by George Miller; 12-27-2017, 03:16 PM.

    • Dennis
      Dennis commented
      Editing a comment
      George I always measure my piston protrusion when assembling. What would you say should be maximum allowable, and maximum difference?

    • George Miller
      George Miller commented
      Editing a comment
      Dennis It depends on a lot of things. Like what kind of head you are using. Best to measure how far it can go in the head with out hitting. The head gasket is going to compress and the pistons will come up higher when it is hot and run fast.

      I do not like them coming up above the block, but it happens on the A.

  • #6
    The engine we used for the Hillclimb last year the crank was ground on the lathe. We had a rev limiter set at 4500 rpms for our last runs. I took the engine apart after the the hill climb the crank and bearings and my home made rods were fine.
    That was with 6 guys driving up the hill 2 hours of practices, and two climbs each for the final. Plus it was a good two mile run back to the bottom of the hill. I can not say the same for clutch.

    Comment

    Related Topics

    Collapse

    • Brad in Maryland
      GAZ-6, the Russian version of the Ford Model A Fordor / Town Sedan......several still exist
      by Brad in Maryland
      The GAZ-6 was the Russian version of the Fordor/Town Sedan.







      Only a hand full of them were ever made ......and at least three of them supposedly still exist. Here is one of them that surfaced recently near St. Petersburg:







      It currently has a GAZ MM engine (not the original engine):...
      06-06-2019, 04:08 AM
    • TNGIZMO
      Long way to work
      by TNGIZMO
      I work second shift about 70 miles (via interstate) from my house. It was a beautiful day so I took the “A“. 96 miles later... I made it to work

      ​ ​ ​ ​ ​​​​​​​...
      01-08-2020, 06:44 PM
    • carolinamudwalker
      Caster readings
      by carolinamudwalker
      I checked my caster using the red book. Drivers side = 5/8" Passenger side =1 1/4 " Car drives fine with probably 20,000 + miles. No wandering or pulling to one side. Only complaint is tire wear (cupping) I made some shims to lower the radius ball, back when I only checked drivers side, now I don't think that is the answer. The photos show one shim and yes that is a grease fitting in the...
      07-12-2019, 03:50 PM
    • Chevmn56
      Thanks To All in the VFF
      by Chevmn56
      I would like to thank all the people in VFF that have give me advice and put up with my constant questions on learning the Model A. My wife doesn't thank you guys for me catching the Model A bug, she doesnt say anything bad just teases me lol..........i would rather spend the money on th A and not at the bar!!!!!! Here are a few pics before the 4th of July cruise around and once again thanks.
      ...
      07-09-2018, 01:26 PM
    • 4port
      Kingston 4 Ball Carburetor
      by 4port
      ​ ​​​​​I believe this is a Kingston 4 Ball carb. Do any guys run these? Through my research there are only a few people that restore these. And the cost is around $550. What is the value unrestored? I’m an A guy....
      06-14-2020, 08:07 PM
    • GaryWa
      IMAFD 2020 Patches
      by GaryWa
      Another Great Job by Bruce! Now get them A's out and about for IMAFD 2020 Sept. ​...
      08-24-2020, 07:42 PM
    • pAAt
      Left and Right hand lug nuts
      by pAAt
      ​ ​ ​ I figured I'd pull the AA rear end apart today and get the parts stored out of the way. I took the five left hand lugs nuts off and proceeded to take the right hand ones off. I got 3 of them off nicely and 2 of them were froze tight. I got out the breaker pipe and still no go. I heated them red hot and quenched them with water, still tight. I soaked the nuts with atf/acetone mix and went to...
      06-24-2019, 07:40 PM
    • ES2Rider
      Front Bumper Crossmember
      by ES2Rider
      I noticed on Norm's 68B picture thread a front bumper crossmember. A beautiful Cab by the way.👍
      I have a '31 68B, but when I got it the car it had no crossmember.
      Was this an option and should my car have this same one?
      Thanks ​​​...
      08-25-2020, 11:56 AM
    • SimplyCosmic
      My "Ugly Christmas Sweater"
      by SimplyCosmic
      Found this on Etsy: Ford Model A Ugly Sweater Sweatshirt

      On the expensive side, but it's hard finding Christmas items that aren't that 1940s red chevy pickup everyone uses.


      ...
      12-01-2019, 02:33 AM
    • Bill CNC
      30 ~ 31 Tapered Shank Rear Spring Perch Ball Replacement
      by Bill CNC
      Hey Folks,

      I took on the task of replacing my rear spring perch ball's part # A-4024but found nothing on the web as to how to go about it for a 31 Tudor. I couldn't find anything on Youtube Video's nor could I find anything in print and pictures for the tapered Perch balls for the 30-31 A's. I know the 28-29's were to be cut and drilled then weld the balls in. I have seen info on that,...
      12-03-2019, 01:10 PM
    Working...
    X