Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rear radius

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Rear radius

    While putting in some new backing plate bolts releasing the rear radius they now do not want to line up with the holes. How is this possible?? I tried removing large center bolt which did not help so I re-attached and was able to get drivers side done but had to use a pry bar at rear between backing plate and V in radius for the top bolt to go in. The passenger side is way off more on top hole of radius but bottom is good. All bolts are loose on backing plate...i am truly perplexed!

  • #2
    They sure can be tough. The last one I did I attached the rear bolts first for both sides, then used a tapered pry bar on the front hole to pull the rear end forward and start the bolt in one side, then tap it through.

    Comment


    • Beauford
      Beauford commented
      Editing a comment
      Driving me nuts. I know I ran into this problem a year ago but forgot how I solved it. All I know is I only see a 1/3 maybe of the axle hole through the radius hole.

  • #3
    Keep the 2 backing plate bolts loose and then start the front bolt, use a line up punch
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • Beauford
      Beauford commented
      Editing a comment
      All of the bolts are lose...no nuts on them. The large bolt is attached to other side that is good. the problem side radius at trans is 3/4 off.

    • Beauford
      Beauford commented
      Editing a comment
      Can't punch through steel...remember these were on perfect so yes my bolt is in the center of the rear crossmember, the frame is not bent and so on...

  • #4
    Beauford, once you have the bolts and nuts in the backing plates, take the side the bolt lines up in the center bolt and get that bolt started but not clear through, then take a tie-down strap from the frame to the torque tube and pull toward the hole to realign the spring, because it has sprung a bit. It just needs a wee bit of persuasion.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      I already told him this but he does not have a ratchet strap...we think alike

  • #5
    loosen (not remove) the 4 1/2" rear motor mount bolts and jimmy things around

    OK, the Wiz and I were having a typing contest; his way will work also

    Comment


    • #6
      I will try these...God please let it work or it may be in the classifieds tomorrow....

      Comment


      • DaWizard
        DaWizard commented
        Editing a comment
        I'll give ya .10¢ lb.

      • Beauford
        Beauford commented
        Editing a comment
        I'll be sure to put sand in the bed. LOL

    • #7
      how about a come-along. somebody around there has to have one you can borrow

      besides having a couple ratchet straps lying around is never a bad idea.....Santa does bring good stuff within a 48° time window.
      we have a bucket full of chain of various lengths and 2 come-alongs, get you over to a tractor supply and stock up
      Last edited by tbirdtbird; 12-25-2017, 09:42 PM.

      Comment


      • Beauford
        Beauford commented
        Editing a comment
        I was just telling Mitch I'm going tomorrow to get ratchet straps and pry bars of different sizes. I have as much tied up in tools as this F2#$ing A!! LOL

      • tbirdtbird
        tbirdtbird commented
        Editing a comment
        good deal, get straps that are stout, those HF cellophane ones don't last long LOL

      • BNCHIEF
        BNCHIEF commented
        Editing a comment
        True look at the toolbox Mitch uses to replace a cracked steering wheel.

    • #8
      You’ll get it today. Sometimes when you take a break and gather ideas, then things will go like butter the next day. It’s normal for that little shift to occur since it’s the radius rods which hold the rear assy center. If your car is on stands under the rear axle that can contribute to it being hard to line up as well. Move them to under the frame rails, then the weight will be off the rear end. I once loosened the rear u- bolts a tad, but i doubt you’ll need to do this. Keep us posted buddy,,,were pulling for ya
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • BILL WILLIAMSON
        BILL WILLIAMSON commented
        Editing a comment
        Try VASELINE ! !

      • Mitch
        Mitch commented
        Editing a comment

    • #9
      Waiting for tractor supply to open....this is cutting into my deer hunting dammit!

      Comment


      • #10
        I have loosened the rear spring but truck is still on stands at the axle until I can get taller ones today for the frame. Here is how off I am....
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 1 photos.

        Comment


        • CarlG
          CarlG commented
          Editing a comment
          "Close, but no cigar"

      • #11
        Shouldn't his bolt go in from passenger side to drivers side? And the nut be on the driver side. I thought I read somewhere if you break a rear axle everything comes out the drivers side, only take the left side radius off, and if the nut is on the driver side the bolt doesn't have to come out.

        Comment


        • #12
          prolly at this point he'll be happy wherever the nut is.

          Mitch is right, he'll get it after a fresh start, we've all been there. If he got this far he has the determination, he's no quitter

          the idea of being on the frame and not the axle with the stands is a good idea, too

          Comment


          • Beauford
            Beauford commented
            Editing a comment
            Tbird u are correct sir! We aint striving for points just putting something in the hole at this point and that one is done so it is staying done.

        • #13
          Well, 120$ later frame is on jack stands and nothing has changed. Used pry bar and won't move. I think I will disconnect from backing plate, reattach to trans mission end and fight the top backing plate bolt which seems a easier battle.

          Comment


          • #14
            weird. loosen the 4 motor mount bolts. loosen 4 rear spring nuts

            u sure frame not wracked a bit?

            Comment


            • #15
              I hope that $120 included a ratchet strap
              3 ~ Tudor's
              Henry Ford said
              "It's all nuts and bolts"


              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

              Comment


              • #16
                Ya know, from the picture it looks like the rod is too far forward. What I would do is pull the bolt out some, place my favorite pry bar between the tip and frame and just shove it back a bit. I thought the bar was coming up short, that happened to me when I replaced backing plates and brakes.
                You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                Comment


                • Beauford
                  Beauford commented
                  Editing a comment
                  yes tooooooo far forward. I have tried a very good pry bar with no result.

              • #17
                Off to the ratchet strap now....

                Comment


                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment

                • Beauford
                  Beauford commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Dont look at me like that...your the one who said to order the stupid bolts I already had and I took the old ones out as I am not wasting money so I used them. I could have placed the damn grease baffles over existing ones and been done. LOL

              • #18
                Strap has the center bolt in. Still top misalignment at top hole of backing plate but pry bar should handle that. Thanks Mitch! I talked to you more than my wife today.

                Comment


                • Dennis
                  Dennis commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Probably best you didn't talk to her today. Women tend to get sensative when they hear you cussing at the car or truck and jump at the chance to suggest to you "why don't you just sell it"....

                • Beauford
                  Beauford commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Dennis, she has been hearing that for 1.5 years now. She knows I (we) have too much money in it to stop now and would never see a return. I have educated her on how many of these were made and it is not a investment but for me to stay out of bars and chasing women. HAHAHAHA...I do neither.

                • Dennis
                  Dennis commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Oh well that's good sounds like you have her well trained.

                • Beauford
                  Beauford commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Dennis, she is so well trained she went out and bought four pairs of shoes since I bought four pair for the model A. LOL She said we are even and she didn't even have to cuss getting her shoes on. HAHAHAHAHA

                • Dennis
                  Dennis commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Oops! Sounds like she has you trained. :rolling

              • #19
                If you push the bolt back flush to the hole edge, then move the arm to the hole, how far off is it?
                Since this is only concerned with the rear end assembly, I don't see any connection to the motor mounts, frame, or U bolts on the rear spring. I know the torque tube and rear axle tubes are a very rigid assembly, so it will be hard to move the radius rods more than a fraction of an inch. I only recall the hole being a bit rearward, and not forward as this one is, so I can't see a use for the ratchet strap in this case. If nothing was added to, or taken away, between the backing plates and axle tubes, it should go back exactly as it came apart.

                Is this a stock torque tube, with no overdrive?
                Have you added shock brackets to the backing plates?
                Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 12-26-2017, 10:17 PM.

                Comment


                • Beauford
                  Beauford commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Tom, it is all stock and no OD. It was only apart a few days ago. You would think that it would bolt right up. The center trans bolt is in now. The only hole that is giving me a problem now is the bottom hole of radius to backing plate that is going towards the rear a fraction of a inch. I have ground the bolt to a point and tried screwing it in but wont bite. It seems lined up enough to give it a hammer whack tomorrow when kids are not sleeping. Hopefully threads will remain.

                • tbirdtbird
                  tbirdtbird commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Tom, you take the fun out of everything! All those other things sure seemed like good ideas at the time!

                  "it should go back exactly as it came apart." haha famous last words

              • #20
                Beauford, before you go ruining a perfectly good bolt, try this...

                If you have one of the bolts that somewhat slides in, remove that one, place a drift pin in the hole from the inside, pull toward the front of the car on the drift pin to line up the other hole, slide bolt in that hole, remove the drift pin and that hole should relax back into place so the bolt will fit.
                You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                Comment


                • #21
                  Beau what Wiz said, loosen all radius rod bolts if you have not, when radius rods are at the torque tube mounting point do they lay flat or paralell a little off here can give you problems as well, you can also pull the rod with a strap a little in towards the tube this will move the bolt hole back a little not too much so you do not bend the radius rod, real mystery as to what happened, good luck.

                  Comment


                  • Beauford
                    Beauford commented
                    Editing a comment
                    They lay flat at the torque tube. I tried pulling it back with a strap but no luck. I'll try it to the side as you mentioned.

                  • BNCHIEF
                    BNCHIEF commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I should have told you pull at the middle of the rod,Mine looked a lot like yours and after it was started it was fine.

                • #22
                  Well the journey is over...I don't have to put a pistol to my head or sell Rusty! My mighty Thor hammer released its energy which exorcised the demons within the radius rod. These bastards can rust off before I every touch them.

                  Comment


                  • DaWizard
                    DaWizard commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Great job Beauford. A little patience and a big hammer!

                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    That is very welcome news. So it took an extra day.. We won't put you Flat Rate till the new year lol

                Related Topics

                Collapse

                • Dennisford
                  Rear radius rods to torque tube?
                  by Dennisford
                  New to site. Question: I have my rear axel and spring assy and backing plates installed in car.But didn't put in radius rods to torque tube. When I tried to install them I got pass side bolt to go into rod and torque tube slot but when i i tried to mount the drivers side radius rod the bolt wont go through the hole on drivers radius rod end. I know both radius rods are the same length but the bolt...
                  11-17-2019, 10:11 PM
                • RonsA
                  1929 rear brakes
                  by RonsA
                  For those who have done this before.... I have the rear brakes rebuilt but getting the backing plate bolted up seems I'm possible with the e-brake lever installed. So I removed that and now I can't get the spring re-installed on the lever with the backing plate bolted on. Do I need to remove the support that runs from the rear axle to the trans? What's the best way to do this? Thanks, Ron
                  07-11-2020, 09:31 AM
                • Steve Plucker
                  Bolt oreintation on the Model A/AA Fords
                  by Steve Plucker
                  There are a few spots on the Model A/AA Ford where one can insert a bolt in either direction to attach a fixture.

                  Is there mention of specific "Correct Bolt Orientation" for any of the assemblies in the Standards OR can we put them in the way we think and be done with it?

                  For instance...which way does the bolt attachment go when assembling the generator to the engine?...
                  03-28-2019, 12:16 AM
                • plyfor
                  Rear Float a Motor bolt tightening
                  by plyfor
                  Without discussing pros and cons of using FAM's, would like to revisit more thoughts on how much users tighten the biscuit bolts. 1, 2 turns, etc. past resistance ? Also , older instructions say to tighten until top clamping ring just can be rotated, while others say to slightly compress the biscuits.
                  12-18-2019, 11:57 AM
                • Dan Partain
                  The Rear Brake Housing Plate NUT...A-21791
                  by Dan Partain
                  (I'm posting this for Pluck)

                  The Rear Brake Housing Plate NUT...A-21791

                  "I know the nut on the left side of this photo was used in attaching the LONG and SHORT bolts in attaching the Rear Brake Housing Plate to the Rear Axle.

                  But what about the one on the right side? Was one like this ever used?

                  "The photo in this post is of the LONG bolts...
                  07-08-2019, 03:34 PM
                • ClO2Jim
                  Rear License Plate Bracket & Plate Bolts
                  by ClO2Jim
                  I have tried finding this in the Judging Standards, but have not been able to find it.

                  What bolts, washers, nuts, etc. were originally used to attach the License Plate to the rear license plate bracket?

                  Do you use the same arrangement as the front? Seems to me that they would be different.

                  Thanks
                  Jim
                  03-27-2020, 08:10 PM
                • fmr187
                  rear spring center bolt alignment
                  by fmr187
                  Going to put the rear end with spring on the frame and noticed that the square head of the center bolt is 90 degrees off from the hole in frame.
                  Can I loosen the bolt to realign it with the frame while it is still attached to the rear axle? Or do I need to remove the spring from the axle to ease the tension on the center bolt before it will turn? ...
                  11-29-2019, 04:07 PM
                • Supergnat
                  Front radius rod ball assy removal
                  by Supergnat
                  Still working on the front end of my recently acquired 29 Phaeton. After reading the how to check the front end I decided to check my front radius ball for the proper clearance. I discovered much to my dismay that ball assembly was installed with a lock washer and nut only (no springs as you can see in the photo). I was able to loosen the one nut but the other nut will not move. The entire bolt just...
                  09-26-2019, 07:31 PM
                • davew
                  T-5 transmission into a Model A
                  by davew
                  i'm planning on putting a t-5 in my 30 coupe. The installer is going with an open driveshaft. Is this going to result in torque issues?
                  08-30-2018, 01:29 PM
                • Steve Plucker
                  Rear Backing Plates
                  by Steve Plucker
                  Minus the Brake Adjusting Wedge Bracket and the Service Brake Rear Actuating Levers on the Rear Backing Plate ...Is there any noticable difference between a 1928-29 and a 1930-31 Rear Backing Plate?

                  Thanks.

                  Pluck
                  09-05-2019, 12:06 AM
                Working...
                X