While putting in some new backing plate bolts releasing the rear radius they now do not want to line up with the holes. How is this possible?? I tried removing large center bolt which did not help so I re-attached and was able to get drivers side done but had to use a pry bar at rear between backing plate and V in radius for the top bolt to go in. The passenger side is way off more on top hole of radius but bottom is good. All bolts are loose on backing plate...i am truly perplexed!
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They sure can be tough. The last one I did I attached the rear bolts first for both sides, then used a tapered pry bar on the front hole to pull the rear end forward and start the bolt in one side, then tap it through.
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Keep the 2 backing plate bolts loose and then start the front bolt, use a line up punch
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Beauford, once you have the bolts and nuts in the backing plates, take the side the bolt lines up in the center bolt and get that bolt started but not clear through, then take a tie-down strap from the frame to the torque tube and pull toward the hole to realign the spring, because it has sprung a bit. It just needs a wee bit of persuasion.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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how about a come-along. somebody around there has to have one you can borrow
besides having a couple ratchet straps lying around is never a bad idea.....Santa does bring good stuff within a 48° time window.
we have a bucket full of chain of various lengths and 2 come-alongs, get you over to a tractor supply and stock upLast edited by tbirdtbird; 12-25-2017, 09:42 PM.
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You’ll get it today. Sometimes when you take a break and gather ideas, then things will go like butter the next day. It’s normal for that little shift to occur since it’s the radius rods which hold the rear assy center. If your car is on stands under the rear axle that can contribute to it being hard to line up as well. Move them to under the frame rails, then the weight will be off the rear end. I once loosened the rear u- bolts a tad, but i doubt you’ll need to do this. Keep us posted buddy,,,were pulling for ya
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I have loosened the rear spring but truck is still on stands at the axle until I can get taller ones today for the frame. Here is how off I am....You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.
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Shouldn't his bolt go in from passenger side to drivers side? And the nut be on the driver side. I thought I read somewhere if you break a rear axle everything comes out the drivers side, only take the left side radius off, and if the nut is on the driver side the bolt doesn't have to come out.
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Well, 120$ later frame is on jack stands and nothing has changed. Used pry bar and won't move. I think I will disconnect from backing plate, reattach to trans mission end and fight the top backing plate bolt which seems a easier battle.
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I hope that $120 included a ratchet strap
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Ya know, from the picture it looks like the rod is too far forward. What I would do is pull the bolt out some, place my favorite pry bar between the tip and frame and just shove it back a bit. I thought the bar was coming up short, that happened to me when I replaced backing plates and brakes.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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Strap has the center bolt in. Still top misalignment at top hole of backing plate but pry bar should handle that. Thanks Mitch! I talked to you more than my wife today.
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If you push the bolt back flush to the hole edge, then move the arm to the hole, how far off is it?
Since this is only concerned with the rear end assembly, I don't see any connection to the motor mounts, frame, or U bolts on the rear spring. I know the torque tube and rear axle tubes are a very rigid assembly, so it will be hard to move the radius rods more than a fraction of an inch. I only recall the hole being a bit rearward, and not forward as this one is, so I can't see a use for the ratchet strap in this case. If nothing was added to, or taken away, between the backing plates and axle tubes, it should go back exactly as it came apart.
Is this a stock torque tube, with no overdrive?
Have you added shock brackets to the backing plates?Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 12-26-2017, 10:17 PM.
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Tom, it is all stock and no OD. It was only apart a few days ago. You would think that it would bolt right up. The center trans bolt is in now. The only hole that is giving me a problem now is the bottom hole of radius to backing plate that is going towards the rear a fraction of a inch. I have ground the bolt to a point and tried screwing it in but wont bite. It seems lined up enough to give it a hammer whack tomorrow when kids are not sleeping. Hopefully threads will remain.
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Tom, you take the fun out of everything! All those other things sure seemed like good ideas at the time!
"it should go back exactly as it came apart." haha famous last words
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Beauford, before you go ruining a perfectly good bolt, try this...
If you have one of the bolts that somewhat slides in, remove that one, place a drift pin in the hole from the inside, pull toward the front of the car on the drift pin to line up the other hole, slide bolt in that hole, remove the drift pin and that hole should relax back into place so the bolt will fit.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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Beau what Wiz said, loosen all radius rod bolts if you have not, when radius rods are at the torque tube mounting point do they lay flat or paralell a little off here can give you problems as well, you can also pull the rod with a strap a little in towards the tube this will move the bolt hole back a little not too much so you do not bend the radius rod, real mystery as to what happened, good luck.
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Well the journey is over...I don't have to put a pistol to my head or sell Rusty! My mighty Thor hammer released its energy which exorcised the demons within the radius rod. These bastards can rust off before I every touch them.
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