Rear radius

[Beauford]

While putting in some new backing plate bolts releasing the rear radius they now do not want to line up with the holes. How is this possible?? I tried removing large center bolt which did not help so I re-attached and was able to get drivers side done but had to use a pry bar at rear between backing plate and V in radius for the top bolt to go in. The passenger side is way off more on top hole of radius but bottom is good. All bolts are loose on backing plate...i am truly perplexed!

[Tom Wesenberg]

They sure can be tough. The last one I did I attached the rear bolts first for both sides, then used a tapered pry bar on the front hole to pull the rear end forward and start the bolt in one side, then tap it through.

[Beauford]

Driving me nuts. I know I ran into this problem a year ago but forgot how I solved it. All I know is I only see a 1/3 maybe of the axle hole through the radius hole.

[Mitch]

Keep the 2 backing plate bolts loose and then start the front bolt, use a line up punch

[Beauford]

All of the bolts are lose...no nuts on them. The large bolt is attached to other side that is good. the problem side radius at trans is 3/4 off.

[Beauford]

Can't punch through steel...remember these were on perfect so yes my bolt is in the center of the rear crossmember, the frame is not bent and so on...

[DaWizard]

Beauford, once you have the bolts and nuts in the backing plates, take the side the bolt lines up in the center bolt and get that bolt started but not clear through, then take a tie-down strap from the frame to the torque tube and pull toward the hole to realign the spring, because it has sprung a bit. It just needs a wee bit of persuasion.

[Mitch]

I already told him this but he does not have a ratchet strap...we think alike

[tbirdtbird]

loosen (not remove) the 4 1/2" rear motor mount bolts and jimmy things around

OK, the Wiz and I were having a typing contest; his way will work also

[Beauford]

I will try these...God please let it work or it may be in the classifieds tomorrow....

[DaWizard]

I'll give ya .10¢ lb.

[Beauford]

I'll be sure to put sand in the bed. LOL

[tbirdtbird]

how about a come-along. somebody around there has to have one you can borrow

besides having a couple ratchet straps lying around is never a bad idea.....Santa does bring good stuff within a 48° time window.
we have a bucket full of chain of various lengths and 2 come-alongs, get you over to a tractor supply and stock up

[Beauford]

I was just telling Mitch I'm going tomorrow to get ratchet straps and pry bars of different sizes. I have as much tied up in tools as this F2#$ing A!! LOL

[tbirdtbird]

good deal, get straps that are stout, those HF cellophane ones don't last long LOL

[BNCHIEF]

True look at the toolbox Mitch uses to replace a cracked steering wheel.

[Mitch]

You’ll get it today. Sometimes when you take a break and gather ideas, then things will go like butter the next day. It’s normal for that little shift to occur since it’s the radius rods which hold the rear assy center. If your car is on stands under the rear axle that can contribute to it being hard to line up as well. Move them to under the frame rails, then the weight will be off the rear end. I once loosened the rear u- bolts a tad, but i doubt you’ll need to do this. Keep us posted buddy,,,were pulling for ya

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Try VASELINE ! !

[Mitch]

[Beauford]

Waiting for tractor supply to open....this is cutting into my deer hunting dammit!

[Beauford]

I have loosened the rear spring but truck is still on stands at the axle until I can get taller ones today for the frame. Here is how off I am....

[CarlG]

"Close, but no cigar"

[Dennis]

Shouldn't his bolt go in from passenger side to drivers side? And the nut be on the driver side. I thought I read somewhere if you break a rear axle everything comes out the drivers side, only take the left side radius off, and if the nut is on the driver side the bolt doesn't have to come out.

[tbirdtbird]

prolly at this point he'll be happy wherever the nut is.

Mitch is right, he'll get it after a fresh start, we've all been there. If he got this far he has the determination, he's no quitter

the idea of being on the frame and not the axle with the stands is a good idea, too

[Beauford]

Tbird u are correct sir! We aint striving for points just putting something in the hole at this point and that one is done so it is staying done.

[Beauford]

Well, 120$ later frame is on jack stands and nothing has changed. Used pry bar and won't move. I think I will disconnect from backing plate, reattach to trans mission end and fight the top backing plate bolt which seems a easier battle.

[tbirdtbird]

weird. loosen the 4 motor mount bolts. loosen 4 rear spring nuts

u sure frame not wracked a bit?

[Mitch]

I hope that $120 included a ratchet strap

[DaWizard]

Ya know, from the picture it looks like the rod is too far forward. What I would do is pull the bolt out some, place my favorite pry bar between the tip and frame and just shove it back a bit. I thought the bar was coming up short, that happened to me when I replaced backing plates and brakes.

[Beauford]

yes tooooooo far forward. I have tried a very good pry bar with no result.

[Beauford]

Off to the ratchet strap now....

[Mitch]

[Beauford]

Dont look at me like that...your the one who said to order the stupid bolts I already had and I took the old ones out as I am not wasting money so I used them. I could have placed the damn grease baffles over existing ones and been done. LOL

[Beauford]

Strap has the center bolt in. Still top misalignment at top hole of backing plate but pry bar should handle that. Thanks Mitch! I talked to you more than my wife today.

[Dennis]

Probably best you didn't talk to her today. Women tend to get sensative when they hear you cussing at the car or truck and jump at the chance to suggest to you "why don't you just sell it"....

[Beauford]

Dennis, she has been hearing that for 1.5 years now. She knows I (we) have too much money in it to stop now and would never see a return. I have educated her on how many of these were made and it is not a investment but for me to stay out of bars and chasing women. HAHAHAHA...I do neither.

[Dennis]

Oh well that's good sounds like you have her well trained.

[Beauford]

Dennis, she is so well trained she went out and bought four pairs of shoes since I bought four pair for the model A. LOL She said we are even and she didn't even have to cuss getting her shoes on. HAHAHAHAHA

[Dennis]

Oops! Sounds like she has you trained. :rolling

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you push the bolt back flush to the hole edge, then move the arm to the hole, how far off is it?
Since this is only concerned with the rear end assembly, I don't see any connection to the motor mounts, frame, or U bolts on the rear spring. I know the torque tube and rear axle tubes are a very rigid assembly, so it will be hard to move the radius rods more than a fraction of an inch. I only recall the hole being a bit rearward, and not forward as this one is, so I can't see a use for the ratchet strap in this case. If nothing was added to, or taken away, between the backing plates and axle tubes, it should go back exactly as it came apart.

Is this a stock torque tube, with no overdrive?
Have you added shock brackets to the backing plates?

[Beauford]

Tom, it is all stock and no OD. It was only apart a few days ago. You would think that it would bolt right up. The center trans bolt is in now. The only hole that is giving me a problem now is the bottom hole of radius to backing plate that is going towards the rear a fraction of a inch. I have ground the bolt to a point and tried screwing it in but wont bite. It seems lined up enough to give it a hammer whack tomorrow when kids are not sleeping. Hopefully threads will remain.

[tbirdtbird]

Tom, you take the fun out of everything! All those other things sure seemed like good ideas at the time!

"it should go back exactly as it came apart." haha famous last words

[DaWizard]

Beauford, before you go ruining a perfectly good bolt, try this...

If you have one of the bolts that somewhat slides in, remove that one, place a drift pin in the hole from the inside, pull toward the front of the car on the drift pin to line up the other hole, slide bolt in that hole, remove the drift pin and that hole should relax back into place so the bolt will fit.

[BNCHIEF]

Beau what Wiz said, loosen all radius rod bolts if you have not, when radius rods are at the torque tube mounting point do they lay flat or paralell a little off here can give you problems as well, you can also pull the rod with a strap a little in towards the tube this will move the bolt hole back a little not too much so you do not bend the radius rod, real mystery as to what happened, good luck.

[Beauford]

They lay flat at the torque tube. I tried pulling it back with a strap but no luck. I'll try it to the side as you mentioned.

[BNCHIEF]

I should have told you pull at the middle of the rod,Mine looked a lot like yours and after it was started it was fine.

[Beauford]

Well the journey is over...I don't have to put a pistol to my head or sell Rusty! My mighty Thor hammer released its energy which exorcised the demons within the radius rod. These bastards can rust off before I every touch them.

[DaWizard]

Great job Beauford. A little patience and a big hammer!

[Mitch]

That is very welcome news. So it took an extra day.. We won't put you Flat Rate till the new year lol