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Front motor support??

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  • Front motor support??

    The repair kit from Brattons contains a brass "washer" and a hard rubber washer. Are either of those used on a 30-31 A? If not that leaves the mount, 3 springs and a nut with cotter pin. Anything else needed?
    http://www.turnbophotography.com

  • #2
    Actually has a leather washer on top of the metal plate and the plate keeps the upper springs in correct position. After Jan 29, they did away with the brass stepped washer and used a plain flat washer between the frame and the spring, below the lower spring a nut and cotter and I only tighten the nut far enough to insert the cotter. You mention a hard rubber washer. Is that what they shipped to you?
    https://www.brattons.com/front-engine-mount-set.html

    Comment


    • #3
      Mickey

      I believe they did away with the brass recessed washer later on and use a flat instead. That being said i still use the brass and the leather washer...

      Only tighten it enough to get the cotter pin in, as it's supposed to float
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • Dennis
        Dennis commented
        Editing a comment
        Same here, still use the brass washer. Hey, I have to keep something original.

      • Mitch
        Mitch commented
        Editing a comment
        I use it on my 30's...

      • Mickey
        Mickey commented
        Editing a comment
        No leather washer and no flat steel washer. The hard rubber washer also does not fit the mount bolt. The hole in the washer is too small. The brass one is a thick two step washer but i did read it was done away with in '29 and let's not forget the large rectangular metal piece that sits against the frame. I assume nothing goes under it. It would have been nice for the kit to be period correct.
        One more thing. The shock arm bolts from Brattons are too short. Can only get where half of the cotter pin hole shows.
        Last edited by Mickey; 12-21-2017, 02:39 PM.

      • Dennis
        Dennis commented
        Editing a comment
        Assuming you are using original shock arms. What are the dimensions from the cotter hole to the underside of the bolt head?

      • Mickey
        Mickey commented
        Editing a comment
        1 13/16"

    • #4
      The 7941 leather washer should be in there
      call them
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • #5
        Your answers are HERE!!! you should have this book and every model a owner.
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 1 photos.

        Comment


        • #6
          The shock arms bolts call for 3/8-24X1 7/8

          http://www.fordscript.com/catalogs/M...202017_FNL.pdf
          3 ~ Tudor's
          Henry Ford said
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

          Comment


          • Mickey
            Mickey commented
            Editing a comment
            Yah I know. I called Brattons and they essentially agreed but could only offer to send more of the same bolts. The guy I was speaking to even said he had the same problem with them. I can grind the nut down some (don't want to do), try to find longer bolts or use half of the cotter pin.

          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            order them from Roy

          • Mickey
            Mickey commented
            Editing a comment
            The problem is they don't accept orders for less than $25 +/- $8 priority shipping. $33 for four bolts is too much.

        • #7
          If the bolt head is thick enough you could turn the underside for the needed lengthening.

          Comment


          • #8
            Are you building a fine point car? if not buy 3/8 x 2 NF bolts and use nylock or lock nuts.

            Comment


            • Mickey
              Mickey commented
              Editing a comment
              Great minds think alike. That was what I had in mind to do. There is enough bolt sticking out for full coverage of a locking nut. I can then update if I come across better, more correct bolts. Maybe get in with someone else on an order to Roy.

            • CM2
              CM2 commented
              Editing a comment
              castellated nuts and cotter pins are a bad way to hold load,by the time the cotter pin does its job the assembly is already loose..modern techniques way better.

            • Mickey
              Mickey commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks for the recommendation. I picked up some 3/8x2 bolts and nylon lock nuts. All installed and ready for brakes.

            • CM2
              CM2 commented
              Editing a comment
              I'm with you,doing my backing plates the same way..

          • #9
            Last update on this issue. Got the motor support installed using the brass washer and cotter pin installed on the bottom. The bottom spring is almost fully compressed but I think it will open up a little as the top springs settle in. I used the hard rubber washer on top.
            I had loosened the lower two rear motor mount bolts (one each side) and removed the top two. The engine shifted about an 1/8" towards the rear. Enough that the top bolts would not go back in. A crowbar and 2X moved it back forward and all is well.

            P.S. The forged mount from Brattons is soooo much better than the cheap two piece one that my truck had on it.
            http://www.turnbophotography.com

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Just tighten the nut enough to catch the cotter pin hole

            • Mickey
              Mickey commented
              Editing a comment
              You mean enough to just get the cotter pin in the hole? If so, that's what I did.

          • #10
            I adjust the bottom nut until the hand crank slips nicely through the bearing and into the crank nut.
            The bearing is the guide block for the hand crank.

            Comment

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