The repair kit from Brattons contains a brass "washer" and a hard rubber washer. Are either of those used on a 30-31 A? If not that leaves the mount, 3 springs and a nut with cotter pin. Anything else needed?
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Actually has a leather washer on top of the metal plate and the plate keeps the upper springs in correct position. After Jan 29, they did away with the brass stepped washer and used a plain flat washer between the frame and the spring, below the lower spring a nut and cotter and I only tighten the nut far enough to insert the cotter. You mention a hard rubber washer. Is that what they shipped to you?
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Mickey
I believe they did away with the brass recessed washer later on and use a flat instead. That being said i still use the brass and the leather washer...
Only tighten it enough to get the cotter pin in, as it's supposed to float3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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Same here, still use the brass washer. Hey, I have to keep something original. -
No leather washer and no flat steel washer. The hard rubber washer also does not fit the mount bolt. The hole in the washer is too small. The brass one is a thick two step washer but i did read it was done away with in '29 and let's not forget the large rectangular metal piece that sits against the frame. I assume nothing goes under it. It would have been nice for the kit to be period correct.
One more thing. The shock arm bolts from Brattons are too short. Can only get where half of the cotter pin hole shows.Last edited by Mickey; 12-21-2017, 02:39 PM.
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The 7941 leather washer should be in there
call them3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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Your answers are HERE!!! you should have this book and every model a owner.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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If the bolt head is thick enough you could turn the underside for the needed lengthening.Comment
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Are you building a fine point car? if not buy 3/8 x 2 NF bolts and use nylock or lock nuts.Comment
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Last update on this issue. Got the motor support installed using the brass washer and cotter pin installed on the bottom. The bottom spring is almost fully compressed but I think it will open up a little as the top springs settle in. I used the hard rubber washer on top.
I had loosened the lower two rear motor mount bolts (one each side) and removed the top two. The engine shifted about an 1/8" towards the rear. Enough that the top bolts would not go back in. A crowbar and 2X moved it back forward and all is well.
P.S. The forged mount from Brattons is soooo much better than the cheap two piece one that my truck had on it.Comment
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I adjust the bottom nut until the hand crank slips nicely through the bearing and into the crank nut.
The bearing is the guide block for the hand crank.Comment
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