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  • Radius ball fix

    I have a worn radius ball and after market rubber ball with the cast lower coupler. I can buy a replacement rubber ball or purchase a washer made to fit on the top of ball, to take up slop, and use original couplers. They make a ball replacement, but not for the early 28's from what I've seen. Can early 28 balls be welded and ground ? How about a good farmer fix, like welding the washer on the top of radius ball. My tendencies go toward farmer fixes, due to the region I live in. Due to the fact this is a nice truck, I'm having internal struggles and need some help !
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    This gallery has 6 photos.
    Last edited by pAAt; 06-22-2017, 08:52 PM.
    Model A's and of course the famous AA's

  • #2
    My 29 Tudor had the rubber kit when I bought the car, but the original mounting kit fixed it right up.
    I'd buy the original kit and the cupped washer, then try the kit alone first.
    As long as the plates are separated by 1/8" or more, you are good to go. If less than 1/8", then add the washer.

    Comment


    • pAAt
      pAAt commented
      Editing a comment
      Tom, I also took 3 starters apart and can't seem to get them back together ! Lucky I have one left that works

  • #3
    Pat,
    Personally I would never want to replace the ball. That would be my last choice.
    If That was my only choice, I would try to find a truly certified welder who could fit it and TIG it.
    It is one of the few joints on a Model A that I think has true driving safety implications, along with the arms and balls on pitman arms and steering arms.

    You can live with quite a bit of wear. Possibly the washer would be useful. Otherwise I would seek a better wishbone.
    They are out there. I have sold 2 NOS 1928 wishbones over the years. Ask around.
    Currently I only have early V8 wishbones, no extra Model A.
    People don't haul them to swap meets, and there are fewer swap meets than in the past, but the wishbones are out there.
    I don't like the rubber ball conversion, though a version of that is what Ford used starting in 1932.

    Comment


    • pAAt
      pAAt commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Vince, I'm going to try the washer and be on the look out for a NOS wishbone. You do a great service to the A mentally challenged. I'm looking for some excellent 28-29 front fenders, if you would have a line on some. Have a wonderful day and I will be trying to do the same. Thanks, Pat

  • #4
    I can help you with the starters when I come down to dial in the flywheel cover.

    Comment


    • pAAt
      pAAt commented
      Editing a comment
      I put 2 starters back together 3 times ! I'll be taking them back apart to install bushings and ? Tom, I'll buy that book you wrote on "Everything Electrical and Testing on the A" when I can come up with some cash !! Thanks, Pat

  • #5
    Pat,
    Sometimes the cupped washer the vendors sell to take up fro wear on the front yoke ball are to thick. You can use the 2 tooth steering box oil seal retainer (Brattons part number 5020) instead if there is not as much wear.
    Dave

    Comment


    • pAAt
      pAAt commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the advice Dave. I'll check that out.
      Pat

  • #6
    Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
    My 29 Tudor had the rubber kit when I bought the car, but the original mounting kit fixed it right up.
    I'd buy the original kit and the cupped washer, then try the kit alone first.
    As long as the plates are separated by 1/8" or more, you are good to go. If less than 1/8", then add the washer.
    this is a KEY sentence on Tom's post above
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • pAAt
      pAAt commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Mitch. When do you send the bill out for answering questions ? I'll have to go into hiding or get a job !

    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      Which means i need to check mine to make sure it is correct and thanks.

  • #7
    In your second picture the piece on the left looks right for the rubber ball but the part on the right
    looks like it is for the original setup.

    Bob
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    Comment


    • pAAt
      pAAt commented
      Editing a comment
      Yep, I think you found the first farmer fix on my truck ! I think it would have been installed in the 50's or before, due to the truck being purchased in the early 60's and stored since then. Thanks, Pat

  • #8
    Padon the high-jack but are radius arms one of the weaker points in Model A's? and if one needed to replace it would Bert's be the place?

    Comment


    • #9
      Originally posted by mshmodela View Post
      Padon the high-jack but are radius arms one of the weaker points in Model A's? and if one needed to replace it would Bert's be the place?
      No, I've never seen them be a weak point, and yes to Bert's for the part.

      Comment


      • #10
        Originally posted by pAAt View Post
        I have a worn radius ball and after market rubber ball with the cast lower coupler. I can buy a replacement rubber ball or purchase a washer made to fit on the top of ball, to take up slop, and use original couplers. They make a ball replacement, but not for the early 28's from what I've seen. Can early 28 balls be welded and ground ? How about a good farmer fix, like welding the washer on the top of radius ball. My tendencies go toward farmer fixes, due to the region I live in. Due to the fact this is a nice truck, I'm having internal struggles and need some help !

        My feelings about farmer fixes and the welded ball repair on steering and suspension parts match Ford's.


        Comment


        • #11
          we've found that the cupped washer can migrate off center if not installed carefully.

          Comment


          • Greynomad
            Greynomad commented
            Editing a comment
            I had one go all the way round and end up UNDER the ball. A little weld fixed that!

        • #12
          What is the correct uncompressed length for the radius cap springs, or perhaps a better question, how much gap between the spring windings? Ours may to be too compressed with the cotters installed. We do have the + 1/8" caps gap as in post 6 with no shim washer inside..
          Also, another photo is attached of what was replaced when the car was purchased. It may have been after -market or from a Model T. It has a single spring inside the caps that compresses against the ball and is not adjustable.The flywhell housing is AA. We removed it due to not being stock but it appeared to work fine with no stress on the wishbone area. Any thoughts?
          Attached Files
          Last edited by plyfor; 02-04-2018, 11:46 AM.

          Comment


          • #13
            Welding the washer to the ball is bad. It is then not going to be round. Welding a new ball on is not a good idea. It would not be safe.

            Comment


            • #14
              For my current project, I have built up weld and dressed it back to round. Should settle in well and last a log time.

              Comment


              • #15
                With all due respects for the above advice, take the time to replace the worn ball and use original design parts. Today's welding methods, if administered correctly, will result in fusion that meets or exceeds the original design parameters. There are many good welders out there who know how to properly replace your worn ball.

                I think all the rubber; washers and different attaching hardware do not solve the root cause..
                ____________________
                Good enough.. Isn't.

                Comment


                • BNCHIEF
                  BNCHIEF commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I am with Larry on this one, Proper welding take it to a certified Tig welder to get this done. On semi trailers the kingpin is welded into the fifth wheel plate which is attached to a trailer, think about all the stresses and strains these undergo but they are not a problem because of the dot approved measure for how they should done. The problem comes in when jo blow has his buddy do it it for him and then you end up with something like the wood job in the car Brent posted. Your life and no one else's life is worth this. After welding you can also have the joint x-rayed to make sure it is sound, not cheap I know but a lot cheaper than funerals. Pipeline welds are x-rayed to ensure their integrity.
                  Last edited by BNCHIEF; 02-05-2018, 08:24 AM.

              • #16
                My 28 looked almost like that, but after I threw out the rubber cover and cast iron caps, then ordered new original style parts, they fit with 1/8" gap, so nothing needed to be done. Try the new parts, then decide if it needs more work.

                Comment

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