No. 8 Head Stud

[29er]

I'm replacing a blown head gasket. I believe head stud #8 is the one that holds the clamp for the ignition cable. In my case, I'm using the skinny ignition cable and don't need a clamp. #8 is a little longer than the other studs to accommodate the clamp. If I replace the clamp with a flat washer to make the exposure above the nuts all the same, will it interfere with the torque? I'm thinking it won't but just wanted to bounce it off somebody. Thanks!

[DustDevil]

I have just worked on that myself. In fact, the issue I have is that the cable is held down by the clamp and head stud you mentioned. To remove the distributor, you have to remove this head nut. In my case, the whole stud came out. My concern was that it would affect the torquing sequence, and maybe mess with the whole head gasket's ability to seal. I retorqued it down and she seems to run fine.

In your case, It shouldn't matter whether you have the clamp on, or a washer, or how long the stud sticks out. Torque is torque. It shouldn't matter.

My only concern is the effect of loosening one head bolt/stud and will it warp the head or not.

[Greynomad]

I have just worked on that myself. In fact, the issue I have is that the cable is held down by the clamp and head stud you mentioned. To remove the distributor, you have to remove this head nut. In my case, the whole stud came out. My concern was that it would affect the torquing sequence, and maybe mess with the whole head gasket's ability to seal. I retorqued it down and she seems to run fine.

In your case, It shouldn't matter whether you have the clamp on, or a washer, or how long the stud sticks out. Torque is torque. It shouldn't matter.

My only concern is the effect of loosening one head bolt/stud and will it warp the head or not.

I don't think you need worry about it warping the head. A while ago, I had a stud strip out of the block. I drove 20 miles to my favourite workshop, whipped the head off, Helicoiled it, retorqued and drove home. No worries!

[29er]

OK, thanks! Sounds like a non-issue.

[Bob-A]

I've had this same situation with my '29 roadster. Twice now and I will be working on my third time of removing my "dizzy" and original pop-out switch/cable.
As far as I know no head gasket problems. I want to remove the original pop-out and replace with the fake cable and regular switch. Plus, remove the head
stud clamp. The car is already 12 volt and electronic ignition systems look interesting. Read somewhere that says original pop-outs will not work with electronic systems. Be prepared I say.

Bob-A;)

[DaWizard]

Hey Bob, that's not necessarily true. The original pop-out switch can be used if you have more than basic electronic skills.

[DaWizard]

What you really need to do first is get a copy of the stock wiring diagram.

Get one of these and ask me in a PM how to do it.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/wiring-diagrams-2930

[Mitch]

We have a copy of the diagram in the tech section

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

SIDE NOTE: One of my block holes for a short stud was drilled & tapped clean through to the water area. BUT, some threads were "missing" at the top!!!----Used the LONGER stud, with Blue Loctite & it worked PERFECTLY!!!
NOW, if I could only lurn to tipe---LOL---The Dog: "sed"--"I'LL HEP U"--LOL
Bill Trick

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Regarding pop outs with an electronic ignition, I took mine apart and put some plastic as an insulater. Been good for over 30,000 miles.